Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 2 : Curiosity

I’m down at the Rocky Point Resort, on the west edge of Upper Klamath Lake, standing on a boat dock. The old fellow there is advising me on the type of watercraft to use for my exploration of the nature preserve.

“You could get in this canoe if you want something really stable. See, it’s got cross-bars. Problem is, since there’s just you, you can’t use the front bench or the rear bench. If you do, you’ll paddle a lot but the canoe will just spin around, because the other end will be sticking up out of the water. So you’ll have to kneel in the middle, and row it from there. It’ll be a lot of work.”

“What, you mean, I have to sit down on my knees, the whole time?”

“Yep. You might want to try a kayak instead. Ever used one?”

“Years ago, yes. Never launched one from a boat dock before.”

“Well I can help you with that…”

He takes me around to a stack of plastic kayaks and selects a stout-looking teal one with a wide bottom, and straps an L-shaped seat cushion into it. He grabs one end of the kayak and I grab the other, and together we walk it over to the side of the dock and lower it into the river. Then he squats down and grabs the lip of the kayak, holding it tight against the side of the dock.

“Climb on in,” he says.

I toss my backpack in and carefully arrange myself in the kayak, legs shoved under the front, backpack between my knees. The man stands up and passes me a double-edged plastic oar. I sit there unsteadily on the water for a while, very slowly testing my balance, and making hesitant jabs with the oar.

Eventually the man asks, “how’s that workin’ for you?” He’s a few yards away, applying paint to the side of a dry-docked canoe.

“Good so far … I have to remember how to balance this thing.”

I take my sweet time – I’m on vacation, after all, and this boat trip is the only thing on my to-do list for the whole day – and eventually I become confident enough with the oar that I can paddle around the border of the dock. I give the man a thumbs-up, take a picture with my camera, and then head off towards the swamps of the preserve, on the opposite side of the slow-flowing river.

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As the morning ebbs into the afternoon I slowly regain my skills with the kayak. By the end of the day I’ll have logged nine hours in it.

Many pictures transpire!

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The lake is home to tons of aquatic plants, dimly visible beneath the water:

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The water itself has a greenish, silty character. It’s like paddling through a gigantic cup of tea.

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Not all the plants live underwater of course. Some are amphibious. They start growing on the lake bottom, and then change appearance only slightly when they begin to protrude from the water.

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Here’s a plant of the same species that has stayed under water. Check out the tracery of sticky webbing left by some aquatic insect.

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Here’s a very different, strictly underwater plant. See all those little nodules on it? What do you suppose those are for?

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Most of the preserve is covered with aquatic plants. These broad-leaved specimens began life three or four feet under the water, and the leaves only reached the open air when they were most of the way grown.

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It’s actually possible to kayak your way through this foliage, but an incredible amount of squiggly worms, snails, beetles, larvae, and pond scum will stick to you along the way. Easier to go around.

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The broad, flat plants compete with the tall grasses for the same shallow water along the borders, with the grass crowding down from the dry shore and the flat plants marching up from the deeper water.

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Sometimes the current is a bit too strong for the underwater plants, and the grass can grow unchallenged, and sometimes the water is unsuitable for other reasons, like a lack of sun:

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Here’s an interesting formation. The logs trapped underwater prevented the dirt on top of them from eroding long enough for plants to grow on the dirt, anchoring it in place. The effect reminds me of Jim Henson’s swamp environment in The Dark Crystal. I expect those little tufts to sprout eyes and teeth any moment.

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Of course the preserve is home to many birds as well. I see this fellow taking off and manage to get the camera up, but I don’t have time to adjust the settings, so the result is blurry. Oh well.

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In the more open sections of water, I encounter many honking geese:

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Honk honk honk!!!

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Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 2 : Amusement

I’m in a campsite at the Rocky Point Resort. I’ve left my laptop charging on the seat of the bike, while the bike is chained to the RV electricity post, concealed under a thin tarp. I observe that my downloads have finished, and consider taking the laptop into my tent so I can reconfigure the playlists on my iPhone. “Hmm, I don’t know,” I think. “That would mean taking it off mains power, and draining the battery. I should conserve battery power for when I’m on my trip.”

“Oh wait. I’m on my trip right now. … I forgot.” Now that’s what I call a brainfart.

I take the laptop into my tent and begin moving tracks around. Outside I hear a mother walking by with her daughter. “Look at that tent, Mom!”

“Yeah. I bet it stays cool!” says the Mom.

“It has a neat design,” says the daughter.

“Uh huh. Must be European.”

I was unaware that good design implied European origin. Perhaps so for camping gear?

I’m out in the middle of a marsh, seated in a Kayak, chewing on some snackies. I photograph the occasion, then get out my phone, which has several bars of signal even out here, and send some texts to The La:

“I see 1000 dwagginflies!”

“Also: There’s 10000000 lily pads!”

“Eeeeee! A ladybug landed on me!”

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Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 1 : Extra Photos

Some additional photos from the day:

I call these "The Three Cowballeros"
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I call these "The Three Cowballeros"

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My trusty steed, Valoria, crossing the valley!
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My trusty steed, Valoria, crossing the valley!

That’s some stripey road!
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That’s some stripey road!

Summer colors.
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Summer colors.

A 30-second exposure with the camera propped against a rock.
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A 30-second exposure with the camera propped against a rock.

Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 1 : Curiosity

I’m on my way down from Crater Lake, and have stopped at one of the scenic turnouts to adjust my luggage. Afterwards I stretch my legs a bit, walking around with the camera, and end up looking down the edge of a cliff at a rushing river.

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You know how it is. The very fact that something’s got an edge compels people to look over it.

Later on, I’m cycling across the wide valley surrounding Fort Klamath, and this piece of cloth catches my eye. How did it end up stuck to a post over a ditch on the side of the road? Did some farmer lose a scrap of his pants while wiring the fence?

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Down the next long road, I encounter this sign:

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I don’t think so, Oregon farmers. Congestion is what you get when you’re driving over Highway 17 into San Jose at 9:00am on Monday morning. Cows crossing the road? A tractor blocking a lane? That’s just an excuse to stop and have a picnic.

About three hours later I climb out of the valley, heading southwest, and during one of my frequent breaks to guzzle water or sip my root beer, I find this specimen in the road:

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Probably only dead for a couple of days. Then, as I’m completing the day’s journey and checking in at the Rocky Point Resort, I discover this fellow walking around on the back of my bike:

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Dig those big stripey antennae, yo!

Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 1 : Amusement

I’m heading down out of the campground, away from Crater Lake. The GPS on my handlebars claims I am going 35 mph. Whoo! Just for the sheer hell of it, I launch the AIM client on my phone, and send people short text messages as I glide around the curves. Mom admonishes me to be careful. Kashy sends me happy little geometric squigglies.

I stop at a turnout to adjust my seat, and take a photo of some interesting cliff erosions. Of course, now that I’m miles from the last official bathroom, my body has decided it’s time to poop. I dig some folded toilet paper out of a plastic bag and tromp out into the woods.

This marks the first of six times on the trip that I will poop outside. The official count is:

  • 1 time in the woods down a hillside.
  • 3 times in the woods at the foot of a tree.
  • 1 time in the woods in a dry creek bed.
  • 1 time in the desert, in the late evening, on flat ground between scrub bushes.

All six times, the result has actually been LESS messier than using a real toilet, because instead of being in a horizontal sitting position, I can actually squat all the way down. There has been almost nothing on the paper, every time. This makes me wonder if Americans will ever be convinced to adopt the Japanese squat toilet. (Or heck, even the bidet would be better.)

A couple minutes after I’ve done my business and walked back to the turnout, four identical Harleys come farting up, and park at the opposite end. A family dismounts and begins chatting and taking pictures. It appears to be an old married couple, their son, and their daughter-in-law. They look hip and cool in their shiny black leather. Two of the Harleys – the ones ridden by the married couple – appear brand-new.

The young woman gawks at my bicycle. The men cast furtive glances at it. As I seat myself and then pedal away, it occurs to me that the whole family could have gone on their trip in one small car for much less money. Then they could have sat and talked to each other the whole time instead of only at rest stops and campgrounds, or over headsets. But no … that wouldn’t be nearly as hip and cool as getting four fartmobiles and leather duds.

To each their own, I guess.

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At the edge of the flatlands, I stop my bike to check the rear brake and the charging box, and take a picture of some sheepies for The La. (I can hear her voice now: “Eeeeeeeeee!! Sheepies!!!”) While I’m on the ground underneath the front wheel, lifting it up and spinning it to check if the charger is working, a dog begins to bark. I ignore it, and continue my checking.

When I stand up, I see a big old furry white dog come marching out from around the side of the nearby house, into the driveway. He barks a throaty bark at me, then walks a little more, then barks again. “Hey there, dawg!” I say, as I dig out my camera.

I take some sheep pictures, and the barking continues. I put the camera back in my bag, and glance up. The dog has meandered out into the road now, about forty yards away, and is sitting on his haunches barking at me.

“What’s your deal, Mister Barks-a-lot?” I say. “Huh?”

I hear a rushing noise behind me, and turn to see a big-rig moving up the road. I wave at the driver, who waves back. Then he slows down, because the dog is still in the road, barking at both of us now. The dog gets to his feet and marches self-importantly across the opposite lane, and down into the ditch. The truck begins moving again, and as it continues down the road, I squat and inspect my rear brake calipers, which I suspect are rubbing against the rim of my tire. I stretch the cable, but I don’t have the screwdriver to make the proper adjustment, so I shrug and stand up, wiping my hands on my sweatpants.

The dog has now wiggled his way under the fence beyond the ditch, and is sitting in the field there, still barking, but apparently at the world in general.

“Whatever, dawg. You just keep doin’ your thing,” I tell him.

I sit back down on the bike, and start pedaling. I expect the barking to fade into the distance, but it doesn’t. I look over my right shoulder and observe the dog, running awkwardly along behind the fence, keeping pace with me. “Watch it! You’re gonna run out of field!” I shout.

I pass out onto a low bridge, over a creek. The dog pulls up short and narrowly avoids tumbling into a bush. He is so startled he actually forgets to bark for a moment. But as I reach the end of the bridge and meet the road again, accelerating, the barking resumes.

Silly old dog. It’s funny, even among dogs that bark, you can tell the difference between the well-treated ones and the unhappy, neglected ones. This fellow is a family dog … Not afraid or angry, just outside doin’ his job.

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