Over the hill to Solvorn

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Nice breakfast, even if a seagull pilfered some of it.
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Nice breakfast, even if a seagull pilfered some of it.

Tiden går … “Time passes”
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Tiden går … “Time passes”

On my way from Sogndalsfjøra to Solvorn.
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On my way from Sogndalsfjøra to Solvorn.

What are all the wooden structures in the river for?
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What are all the wooden structures in the river for?

Yaaaay tunnel!
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Yaaaay tunnel!

Note the coating of litter and pine needle scum being held back by the scoop.
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Note the coating of litter and pine needle scum being held back by the scoop.

Crazy warning and potential album cover.
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Crazy warning and potential album cover.

Almost to the church! Well, another day of travel, for me.
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Almost to the church! Well, another day of travel, for me.

Another local cat spotted! This one wasn’t interested in saying hello.
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Another local cat spotted! This one wasn’t interested in saying hello.

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Land of fancy manes!
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Land of fancy manes!

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Care for a nap in the drizzle?
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Care for a nap in the drizzle?

I do enjoy my funny filter effects.
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I do enjoy my funny filter effects.

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This is modern world, people.
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This is modern world, people.

Note the pin on Réunion island, east of Madagascar.
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Note the pin on Réunion island, east of Madagascar.

Local cat, ready for pets!
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Local cat, ready for pets!

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Nordic flowers!
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Nordic flowers!

“The world is beautiful, if only you see it from the right angle.” Angle = kanten, Cats = katter. Bit of a pun.
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“The world is beautiful, if only you see it from the right angle.” Angle = kanten, Cats = katter. Bit of a pun.

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Translation apps tell me the name of this sculpture is “beachgoers”. I think it’s more like “seafarers”…
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Translation apps tell me the name of this sculpture is “beachgoers”. I think it’s more like “seafarers”…

Detail of “strandsitjarar”. Note the much more pronounced weathering on this figure relative to the other: She’s facing the corrosive sea.
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Detail of “strandsitjarar”. Note the much more pronounced weathering on this figure relative to the other: She’s facing the corrosive sea.

Detail of “strandsitjarar”
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Detail of “strandsitjarar”

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After you see this church, go see Gaupne Old Church. Collect them all!
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After you see this church, go see Gaupne Old Church. Collect them all!

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“Two stone axes, dating back to the Paleolithic Period, are the oldest traces of human life found in the area.”
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“Two stone axes, dating back to the Paleolithic Period, are the oldest traces of human life found in the area.”

The May 17 itinerary is adorable.
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The May 17 itinerary is adorable.

Picture of Ornes in 1938.
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Picture of Ornes in 1938.

Picture of Solvorn in 1915.
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Picture of Solvorn in 1915.

Tents, beds, and chickens, this way in Eplet.
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Tents, beds, and chickens, this way in Eplet.

I am INCLINED to like this farm.
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I am INCLINED to like this farm.

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One of the rules: “Don’t climb while other guests are eating breakfast.”
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One of the rules: “Don’t climb while other guests are eating breakfast.”

This would never have occurred to me, until I read the sign and thought “Hmm, what an intriguing idea…”
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This would never have occurred to me, until I read the sign and thought “Hmm, what an intriguing idea…”

Kinda creepy being in here alone with all these empty beds.
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Kinda creepy being in here alone with all these empty beds.

Big day of bridges

First job of the day: Find a croissant.
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First job of the day: Find a croissant.

Yay diversity people representin’!
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Yay diversity people representin’!

Instead of an inscription it had a QR code, but I didn’t bother scanning it.
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Instead of an inscription it had a QR code, but I didn’t bother scanning it.

This squawky bird has a bracelet! Somebody knows its name.
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This squawky bird has a bracelet! Somebody knows its name.

Cemetery gate.
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Cemetery gate.

Anna Hilssen, according to the headstone.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280127076_28f9fdfc87_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280127076/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280127076_381e28dfca_o.jpg

Anna Hilssen, according to the headstone.

This tree has seen a lot of pruning…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279204837_0e499149b9_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279204837/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279204837_bb43b093b8_o.jpg

This tree has seen a lot of pruning…

Another well-pruned cemetery tree.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280350789_ff3f5c9574_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280350789/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280350789_cffb3bc758_o.jpg

Another well-pruned cemetery tree.

There should be a cat hanging out near this wall. Perhaps in better weather…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280350194_698cf5e03e_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280350194/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280350194_02f606f9f7_s.jpg
2026-05-16-105912-2026-05-16_10-59-12-63_02-00_3I2A5563
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280350194_9b5a3c8389_o.jpg

There should be a cat hanging out near this wall. Perhaps in better weather…

Salty frozen ocean air does things to hinges…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279204212_82e030535e_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279204212/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279204212_b76397c00a_s.jpg
2026-05-16-105942-2026-05-16_10-59-42-60_02-00_3I2A5564
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279204212_fc643d3274_o.jpg

Salty frozen ocean air does things to hinges…

New friend!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259608_f20ec01065_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280259608/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259608_aa3fe4ac12_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259608_5800332c94_o.jpg

New friend!

Clearly we’re related.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259188_24cee1175b_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280259188/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259188_44958a75dd_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259188_5590d47820_o.jpg

Clearly we’re related.

I can’t resist me some Scooby art.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280126356_f6528b6e29_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280126356/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280126356_b52c3dd375_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280126356_9c517cd634_o.jpg

I can’t resist me some Scooby art.

Is this about Ukraine??
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259008_9c1f874df8_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280259008/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259008_44ebf8f3c5_s.jpg
2026-05-16-122744-IMG_0770
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259008_5065acbdca_o.jpg

Is this about Ukraine??

… Ah, no. It’s not about Ukraine.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259198_0067deff35_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280259198/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259198_4dee725d9c_s.jpg
2026-05-16-123324-IMG_0776
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280259198_ec1040f14c_o.jpg

… Ah, no. It’s not about Ukraine.

SHEEPY
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280125861_42822b2fd0_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280125861/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280125861_275f3968f6_s.jpg
2026-05-16-123539-2026-05-16_12-35-39-33_02-00_3I2A5567
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280125861_943fbde4d1_o.jpg

SHEEPY

Waiting for work to resume…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349059_52c52d5001_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280349059/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349059_025f6d041c_s.jpg
2026-05-16-123717-2026-05-16_12-37-17-71_02-00_3I2A5570
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349059_13d20f609b_o.jpg

Waiting for work to resume…

That’s a long way to carry your groceries.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349274_ebde5c318a_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280349274/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349274_ab95942828_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280349274_46678e3134_o.jpg

That’s a long way to carry your groceries.

Hmmm why do I have zees sudden urge to invade Russia in ze winter?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520640_6edcc40108_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280520640/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520640_d414c0c663_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520640_1f57a53d94_o.jpg

Hmmm why do I have zees sudden urge to invade Russia in ze winter?

Land of hills… Very hobbity.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258413_c76a1fb7f7_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280258413/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258413_416ff02ec7_s.jpg
2026-05-16-134307-2026-05-16_13-43-07-59_02-00_3I2A5573
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258413_538ba7ba7e_o.jpg

Land of hills… Very hobbity.

I think this wall might only be effective against sheep going one way…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520105_3079e89f0d_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280520105/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520105_4847f83674_s.jpg
2026-05-16-135454-IMG_0785
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520105_b234876e7d_o.jpg

I think this wall might only be effective against sheep going one way…

Warning: DON’T!
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280347464/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280347464_51890f4414_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280347464_62b2104d5a_o.jpg

Warning: DON’T!

Pretty cool driveway!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520240_40693536d7_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280520240/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520240_e80c45fca3_s.jpg
2026-05-16-134338-2026-05-16_13-43-38-66_02-00_3I2A5575
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280520240_9c84ddf3a8_o.jpg

Pretty cool driveway!

A cute ribbon of road.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280257798_0d0c438c53_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280257798/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280257798_5fe0d25172_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280257798_b54c46c66a_o.jpg

A cute ribbon of road.

Pretty weird stuff when you look up close.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519585_3262b8df8c_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280519585/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519585_a7cdaa480a_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519585_aed807b250_o.jpg

Pretty weird stuff when you look up close.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279202167_0f6bcdd694_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279202167/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279202167_a0e1ac3cdb_s.jpg
2026-05-16-142159-2026-05-16_14-21-59-11_02-00_3I2A5579
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279202167_5ca2a986ac_o.jpg
A chunk of flowers! I shall sit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280347674_57bc18b397_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280347674/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280347674_13393b67f5_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280347674_82355b0c19_o.jpg

A chunk of flowers! I shall sit.

Time to sit in flowers.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280348139_15f1c6851a_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280348139/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280348139_ea7cfc9318_s.jpg
2026-05-16-141507-IMG_0791
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280348139_142c4ab8d1_o.jpg

Time to sit in flowers.

I think someone’s been borrowing rocks from this thing…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519095_0fa1898edd_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280519095/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519095_9c5cdc9488_s.jpg
2026-05-16-145530-IMG_0799
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280519095_4e1e3c7234_o.jpg

I think someone’s been borrowing rocks from this thing…

Nice hat!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258108_33361ff660_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280258108/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258108_c702876194_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280258108_609e8f1a23_o.jpg

Nice hat!

Locals on wheels.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280124191_7d16efeb65_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280124191/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280124191_f56bfe42e6_o.jpg

Locals on wheels.

About to board the ferry.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123361_c15ba3a553_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280123361/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123361_df2defc3fd_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123361_58a43335b1_o.jpg

About to board the ferry.

More friends!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123611_1b6a264c2e_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280123611/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123611_17292a5789_s.jpg
2026-05-16-151333-IMG_0800
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123611_a3c17cf931_o.jpg

More friends!

Starting to see some serious mountains in the distance…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122846_2474bd6328_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280122846/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122846_e2ecc95952_o.jpg

Starting to see some serious mountains in the distance…

Arrr, it be a fine day at sea.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123216_a3135b7d91_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280123216/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123216_63914b291b_o.jpg

Arrr, it be a fine day at sea.

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55278019682/
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55278019682/play/720p/d8041ab8c5/
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55278020742/play/720p/b101547004/
My fellow bike riders preparing to exit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122781_1a296d49b0_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280122781/
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My fellow bike riders preparing to exit.

Know the code!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123416_93d47e2168_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280123416/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123416_e17ee2aac3_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123416_ef8fc70a44_o.jpg

Know the code!

Fairly accurate, really.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123071_42b5066d1a_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280123071/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123071_eef1246480_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280123071_2c22cd1ba9_o.jpg

Fairly accurate, really.

Nearly across…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122906_fbef1ce1c3_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280122906/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122906_ffe88320ce_s.jpg
2026-05-16-154511-IMG_0827
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122906_f4af881d57_o.jpg

Nearly across…

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/55279347677_50f7a67314_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279347677/
https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/55279347677_1bfc0ee1e3_s.jpg
DJI_20260516175254_0001_D-cola_zoom_out
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279347677/play/720p/1bfc0ee1e3/
Random rainbow!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122201_15f1e0c0b2_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280122201/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122201_2668ae5fe9_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280122201_ecb1142a28_o.jpg

Random rainbow!

Good to know where I can go, if I need to send a telegraph.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280345604_e36a55a73c_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280345604/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280345604_52377b5bf1_o.jpg

Good to know where I can go, if I need to send a telegraph.

A historically significant wee red house.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255883_f9542c6ffd_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280255883/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255883_3281654b94_o.jpg

A historically significant wee red house.

Here, read about Hilleborgstova!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255438_82cfdeaef6_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280255438/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255438_740e8044a8_o.jpg

Here, read about Hilleborgstova!

Solar panel keeping the graveyard illuminated at night. Keen!
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279200072/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55279200072_f6f9b8eec6_o.jpg

Solar panel keeping the graveyard illuminated at night. Keen!

A darn good meal.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254918_212ee3389d_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280254918/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254918_5e506f6d27_s.jpg
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254918_9e60f00c59_o.jpg

A darn good meal.

I didn’t know Zoe had her own electric car…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280515680_420fa64d2b_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280515680/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280515680_2d435e8ea5_o.jpg

I didn’t know Zoe had her own electric car…

Something tells me the GPS altitude is not accurate…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280345139_787a418c6f_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280345139/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280345139_e059fe9276_s.jpg
2026-05-16-194836-IMG_0851
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280345139_a9a3c48b59_o.jpg

Something tells me the GPS altitude is not accurate…

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/55278022352_692cdb54ec_c.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55278022352/
https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/55278022352_692cdb54ec_s.jpg
2026-05-16-IMG_0854-greeting_sheep
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55278022352/play/720p/692cdb54ec/
Siblings sharing a hill.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255008_e26cad300b_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280255008/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255008_156d29dddc_s.jpg
2026-05-16-200014-IMG_0857
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280255008_e5a4cf6668_o.jpg

Siblings sharing a hill.

Yo, checkit! SHEEPS.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254823_e6fdd6493f_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280254823/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254823_54a77476b8_s.jpg
2026-05-16-195936-IMG_0855
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280254823_4480263d7e_o.jpg

Yo, checkit! SHEEPS.

A kiosk telling you where you can spot some lava.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280344884_08610394a9_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280344884/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280344884_50e2a97ce8_o.jpg

A kiosk telling you where you can spot some lava.

A steep chunk of property. I was next to that house, about half an hour ago…
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55280344704/
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55280344704_5961283721_o.jpg

A steep chunk of property. I was next to that house, about half an hour ago…

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/55279163784_df07342cb4_h.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/55279163784/
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A really nice spot.
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A really nice spot.

There’s critters in the sea!
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There’s critters in the sea!

Good to keep one nearby,
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Good to keep one nearby,

You know, this was a darn good cola.
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You know, this was a darn good cola.

Creepy abandoned house!
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Creepy abandoned house!

The first of a trio of bridges for this evening.
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The first of a trio of bridges for this evening.

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We really don’t care for avalanches here!
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We really don’t care for avalanches here!

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This is the shed where they keep extra bridge.
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This is the shed where they keep extra bridge.

A very fancy bridge.
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A very fancy bridge.

If I squint, it kinda looks like sunset near the Golden Gate back in California…
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If I squint, it kinda looks like sunset near the Golden Gate back in California…

Pretty sunny view for 10:00pm…
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Pretty sunny view for 10:00pm…

Not an inspirational quote, as I thought at first glance. It read "All climbing, jumping and diving from the bridge structure is illegal."
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Not an inspirational quote, as I thought at first glance. It read "All climbing, jumping and diving from the bridge structure is illegal."

Very gracefully constructed.
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Very gracefully constructed.

Encounter with Harald Hårfagre

No one disturbed me at night, or in the morning, stomping around asking if I belonged there or had paid my camping fee. That was nice.

Morning by the water.
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Morning by the water.

See ya later, groovy seaside campsite…
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See ya later, groovy seaside campsite…

I’m sure this is some kind of game board, but I don’t know what it is…
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I’m sure this is some kind of game board, but I don’t know what it is…

That has god to be a VERY strong roof to hold up all that slate.
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That has god to be a VERY strong roof to hold up all that slate.

I took my time packing up the tent, giving it a chance to dry on a picnic table. I had a long way to ride but paradoxically that meant I was going to prepare even slower than usual, because I wanted to make sure the journey started well and that I definitely didn’t leave anything behind.

Those are the two preventable things that bite hardest on a long bike tour: Being surprised by some equipment failure you didn’t check for, and leaving stuff behind. (Even if you know exactly where you left it, that place might be the other side of a mountain it took you six hours to deal with.)

But, it’s a bike tour: That means you don’t have anything to do for the entire day except make the journey. So, slow right down and pay attention to the journey. It could take six hours, or it could take sixteen… That’s fine. It’s a really different vibe than regular modern life.

The hills are alive…
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The hills are alive…

The hills have eyes!

After the first big climb I shot down to a little cluster of houses – not enough to call a town – with a co-op store in the middle. It was the first place along the route where I could get food, so I parked the fully-loaded bike nearby and strolled in, quite confident that the bike would be safe. Such is my trust of Norwegians. I could probably leave it parked there for a week and no one would mess with it, though after a couple of days someone might start asking around to see if there was a confused cyclist wandering the streets without a bike.

I don’t know what’s stranger: That these are “SALT SKUM”, or that they are “candy people”.
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I don’t know what’s stranger: That these are “SALT SKUM”, or that they are “candy people”.

Rich in fiber and protein… As long as you can catch it.
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Rich in fiber and protein… As long as you can catch it.

“Without whole grains?” I thought those were a selling point? Am I mis-translating?
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“Without whole grains?” I thought those were a selling point? Am I mis-translating?

Okay, it’s not the most healthy selection, but I could do worse…
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Okay, it’s not the most healthy selection, but I could do worse…

I’m not proud of what I ended up buying, but I was listening to my stomach and limbs. They wanted:

  • A bag of chips
  • An orange
  • Egg salad (more like a sandwich spread than a salad)
  • Shrimp salad (same)
  • Chocolate milk
  • Two chocolate muffins
  • A couple of mysterious candy bars

It’s not me calling the shots; it’s my legs mostly!

I packed it all into the bike (except for a chocolate muffin which I packed into my belly) and rode on, feeding my ears with “Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me”. Keeping up with the news back home in the loosest possible way.

“If you are fond of walking, you are in the right place.” Well said, kiosk.
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“If you are fond of walking, you are in the right place.” Well said, kiosk.

The Himakånå Hike (English taken directly from the sign.)

Himakånå is a spectacular mountain formation towering over Lysevatnet, near Hinderavåa. 3571 MASL (meters above sea level). It is often called Nedstrand’s answer to Troltunga in Hardanger.

The road to the mythical creature of Himakånå, starts by the main road approximately 750 m east of the church, by a small and red electrical transformation kiosk. Here you will find signs pointing to both Himakånå and Stelanuten.

In the beginning, you wil walk on a tractor road, later, on what remains of an old road and path. After passing a section of the trail, the farm Helland will be to your right. Soon the trail goes out in open terrain, where animals can be seen feeding on the grass. Here it will start opening up with a good view of the south and the Ryfyike Islands.

After passing this place, you will find a new sign pointing westward and towards Himakånå. Here will split. One of the two trails continue upwards towards Stelanuten. The trail towards Himakånå is on the left, and passes through a landscape of scattered birch forest, bushes and heather. At the end of the trail, the mountain rises vertically down towards Lysevatnet.

When finally reaching the top, get rewarded with a magnificent view in spectacular surroundings.

The trip back goes the same way as up. Otherwise, it is possible to continue towards Stelanuten and down to our eroe, Ivou dian on takine tils route dow, kis minerten lu liare all chud wor stationed there as it is somewhat far from Hinderavag.

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It rained a bit. I paused under some tall trees and devoured chips and egg spread, until the branches above me were soaked and stopped being a shelter. Nearby some tame geese honked at me, then moseyed over in search of chips. I told them “no”.

Waaait… What am I doing back in California?
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Waaait… What am I doing back in California?

Another few hours of riding brought me over the last hill, into Haugesund. There were lots of students walking around wearing sweatpants with the name of their school stitched onto them in large letters. Small crowds of them were converging on a party happening at the local park. Folks living their regular lives, while I was taking a break from mine.

I really do enjoy how informative the local signage is about hikes.
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I really do enjoy how informative the local signage is about hikes.

The Presten Hike (English taken directly from the sign.)

Route description: 7,0 km round trip to “Presten” (“The Priest”), 213 MASL.

The walk starts at the dam by Eivindsvatn Lake. Follow the road to the right along the lake’s edge and continue on the main road up the valley, “Djupadalen”, at the end of the lake. Walk past “HIL-hytta”, a cabin owned by the orienteering club, and continue straight on across the bridge at the first road fork. At the next fork, keep right and continue upwards to the southern end of Krokavatnet Lake. Cross the little wooden bridge and follow the path upwards. Keep left at both forks in the path to climb to the ridge east of and above the lake.

You will arrive at a tall cairn named “The Priest”, where you will enjoy a marvellous view of large parts of the country around Haugesund. On a clear day you will be able to see “Folgefonna” to the northeast – Norway’s second largest glacier.

The path continues down to “Jetnaheim”, where there is a picnic site with views across the lake. The stone foundations you see are the remains of a cabin built in 1916 by Haugesunds Fjell-lag. It was torn down in 1954, as the lake had been made a drinking water reservoir.

“Jotnaheim” refers to Norse mythology, where a “jotunn” was a kind of troll or ogre. From Jetnaheim the path goes down to the concrete dam at the northern end of Krokavatnet. Cross the dam, and go straight up the rocky slope to “Skaret”, a narrow passage south of the Jotnafjell ridge. The path leads down Skaret to the Djupa-dalen road, taking you back the same way you came, to the Eivindsvatnet dam.

No small lake is complete without one!
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No small lake is complete without one!

Stop here and enjoy a … pac-man?
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Stop here and enjoy a … pac-man?

“Ilga” …. “Long”?? I don’t get it.
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“Ilga” …. “Long”?? I don’t get it.

The border stone between Skale and Førul Fjord, I assume.
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The border stone between Skale and Førul Fjord, I assume.

Adorable brickwork for a school!
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Adorable brickwork for a school!

Ludolf Eide, the guy who championed the creation of the Haraldshaugen memorial nearby which I will soon encounter.
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Ludolf Eide, the guy who championed the creation of the Haraldshaugen memorial nearby which I will soon encounter.

Manhole Gallery: Haugesund
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Manhole Gallery: Haugesund

As I followed the Eurovelo 1 north to the edge of town where my campground was, I approached a striking monument in the center of a park. There was no way I would pass this by without inspecting it.

It turned out to be dedicated to a viking ruler from 1200 years ago named Harald Hårfagre.

Approaching the Haraldshaugen memorial.
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Approaching the Haraldshaugen memorial.

The Haraldshaugen memorial at sunset-ish.
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The Haraldshaugen memorial at sunset-ish.

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Decoration on the Haraldshaugen memorial.
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Decoration on the Haraldshaugen memorial.

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I beheld the inscription on the central obelisk:

Inscription on the Haraldshaugen memorial.
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Inscription on the Haraldshaugen memorial.

IN MEMORY OF
HARALD HAARFAGRE
WHO UNITED THE COUNTIES OF NORWAY
INTO ONE KINGDOM
NORTHERN PEOPLE ERECTED THIS STONE
A THOUSAND YEARS AFTER THE BATTLE
IN HAFSFJORD
1872

Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 1
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Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 1

Harald Hårfagre (English taken directly from the sign.)

The sagas connect Harald Hårfagre – Harald Fairhair – to a family of chieftains in Vestfold near present-day Oslo. More recently modern historians have claimed that he was a West Country king, hailing from Sogn, Sunnhordaland or Karmey. Harald sought to bring all of Norway under one ruler, most probably driven by the desire to secure the coastal shipping lanes, which were the Vikings’ main trade routes (c. 800-1050 AD). He made allies of the Lade Earls of Trendelag to do battle with the minor kings of West Norway’s fjordland. Harald won the decisive battle in Hafrsfjord, near today’s Stavanger, at the close of the 9th century.

We believe Harald only secured control of Western Norway with his Hafrsfjord fleet. In the sagas we hear of several other royal farms in these parts, such as Avaldsnes on Karmey, and Fitjar in Sunnhordland. In those days the king maintained control by journeying through the realm with his warriors. King Harald died in about 930 AD and is credited with setting in motion the process that led to political and territorial fusion of Norway into one nation, a process that was completed in the 13th century.

Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 2
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Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 2

Snorre Identifies The Royal Grave

Snorre Sturlasson in his saga of Harald Fairhair writes that “King Harald died of disease in Rogaland and is buried in a mound at Haugar overlooking the Karmsund strait. At Haugesund stands a church, and right beside the churchyard to the northwest lies King Harald Fairhair’s burial mound, but to the west of the church lies King Harald’s gravestone, which once covered his grave in the mound.”

When Snorre visited the area in 1220 he was shown a mound with a burial chamber which, tradition had it, contained Harald Fairhair. Historians in the 19th century agreed, placing his grave at Gard Church. Later research sheds doubt whether it was King Harald’s grave that Snorre visited almost three centuries after his death.

Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 3
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Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 3

National Monument Since 1872

In 1872, a 17 metre tall granite obelisk was raised at the Gard Church ruins to commemorate the battle of Hafrsfjord 1000 years earlier. The elegant spike symbolises the unification of Norway and stands in a circle of 29 stones, repre-senting the ancient Norwegian counties that Harald brought together. On the north side, between the obelisk and the county stones, lies a gravestone flag that may be the one described by Snorre.

The commemoration obelisk can be seen as a product of the National Romanticism that raged in the late 1830s. It was a period when the country’s ancient history was being tapped to cultivate a new, national self-esteem. The monument at “Haraldshaugen” was the brainchild of Haugesund’s Ludolf Eide, who put forth the idea in 1863 and won country-wide support. The national monument was unveiled on 18th July 1872 by Crown Prince Oscar, later Oscar II. Representatives from the royal family, the national assembly (Storting), government ministers and county dignitarles attended this “1000 Year Jubilee” which occasioned much popular celebration and merrymaking.

Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 4
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Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 4

Church Ruins

Right beside Haraldshaugen lay the Gard Church. Gard was a royal farm and the largest estate in ancient Skáre district.

Very probably it was Gard Church that Snorre described on his journey to Norway in 1218. The last reference we have is dated 1316. Perhaps the church was left to ruin after the Black Death (AD 1349).

The foundation wall which was visible until well into the 19th century, measured roughly 15 by 6 metres. Also quantities of soapstone have been found on the site, including chiselled and decorated column heads.

Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 5
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Let’s learn at the Haraldshaugen memorial! Part 5

Krosshaug

The stone cross at Krosshaug is believed to have been erected in early Christian times. Early stone crosses of this kind indicated that the country was Christian, and they were erected to both “christianise” heathen graves and indicate Christian gathering places before churches were built. They may also have been erected as monumental stones. This cross stands directly on the rock, with no burial mound underneath.

Bishop Fridtjov Birkelid, who studied the Norwegian stone crosses closely, suggests that a monument may have been erected to King Harold the Fairhaired’s eldest son, King Eric Bloodaxe, who died in England in the year AD 945.

The cross is almost 3 metres tall. It broke in half in the winter of 1846-47, and was reconstructed in 1869 with the two parts joined by iron rings. Rogaland and Sunnhordland are the regions outside Great Britain with the largest number of stone crosses from early Christian times.

I think we would all like to claim some kinship with the Vikings, distant or near, because their legacy has had an interesting reconstruction.  People acknowledge that they were murderous, rapacious, kidnapping, plunderous brutes, but then they conveniently drop all that and embrace the spirit of adventure and the freedom of movement they represent in the modern age. … To the point where even the native Icelanders now put anachronistic horns on the viking helmets decorating their official signage, because the myth is honestly more important than the truth.

And the existence of the myth is no accident:  A thousand years of distance, and the scant written records of their more mundane lives, made space for the Viking age to be reconstructed for a modern purpose, similar to the way ancient Egypt is fascinating mostly because the details of their society were lost.  

(Though the case of Egypt is a bit ironic:  Their history, language, and written works were actively destroyed by invading peoples, and the monuments that remained inspired later civilizations to fill that space with fantastical and even supernatural tales.  And so, people worldwide are interested in ancient Egypt, while practically no one but the modern Egyptians are interested in modern Egypt, except for how carefully it acts to preserve its ancient past.)

I guess the lesson for the Persians of several thousand years ago is, “make sure you finish the job.” Har har.

Anyway, I found a decent spot at the campsite right next to the monument. It was windy but the place had good services and was affordable.

A bit windy, but it works.
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A bit windy, but it works.

After seven hours on the bike my right leg was bugging me again, just below the knee. Hopefully I could go easy on it tomorrow.

Right before bed I called up the recruiter who was negotiating the start date of my next job, and we arrived at a compromise of mid-June. It was much, much earlier than I really wanted, but I felt like it was the right move. To get home in time for the jetlag to wear off I would need to aggressively cut my biking schedule and probably book a bunch of things in advance. It would be difficult. But, that’s a problem for “tomorrow me”…

A giant finger

A bit chilly for the first half of the night…
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A bit chilly for the first half of the night…

I was quite comfortable in the sleeping bag, though wearing my “sea captain” sweater and my rain pants and two pairs of socks did seem a bit extreme…

I had some trouble redeeming my deposit at the ATM thing in the wall, but the attendant was on-site, sharing a giant pizza with the rest of the staff, and she worked the machine at the desk inside the reception area and I got my ten bucks back.

Continuing northwest along the cost, I started to see real chunks of flat farmland.  I wondered if this region is a sort of “bread basket” for Norway.  Poking around in Google Earth I didn’t see much other flat terrain in the whole country.

Step 1: Clear the rocks out of the field. Step 2: Use the rocks to make walls.
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Step 1: Clear the rocks out of the field. Step 2: Use the rocks to make walls.

Huh. A moment ago this was a paved road…
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Huh. A moment ago this was a paved road…

Cows at the seashore.
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Cows at the seashore.

It’s bumpy, but pleasant.
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It’s bumpy, but pleasant.

The road rambled along the coast for a while, then was interrupted by a farm gate, marked with a sign. I took the cue and stopped for a snack.

A lttle introduction to this section of road, the “North Sea Cycle Route.”
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A lttle introduction to this section of road, the “North Sea Cycle Route.”

The sign translated more-or-less as follows:

“Welcome to a trip on Kongevegen. A collaboration between the landowners and Hå municipality has allowed parts of the old road to be opened to public traffic. The road is currently used by the farm for transport and service roads, so animals have the right of way.”

“Large parts of the road pass through agricultural areas, which means that everyone must respect the requirement for a lane restriction. Farmers have a right to euthanize any dog that causes damage to animals.”

“There are many rare plants and flowers along the road, which runs partly through the Jærstrendene landscape park. In the Reime area, it is forbidden to take flowers or other plants with you. You can, however, take the nature experience with you.”

Obrestad Lighthouse in the distance.
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Obrestad Lighthouse in the distance.

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The sound of the surf and nearby animals was pleasant, and I made a short recording with my phone. While that went, I chomped on a sandwich I’d bought the previous day. Another traveler came by on foot and opened the gate, which made a loud squeal. He shut it carefully, grinned and waved at me, and kept going. A nice encounter but it meant I had to edit the recording!

The dirt road became a gravel trail, then went through a small park and joined a regular paved road. The Eurovelo route sent me through a rural area and over a few steep hills. At the top of one I spied a strange object:

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The words translate to “nose station”.

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I have no idea what that’s all about.

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The finger wasn’t the only oversized object I found on the day’s ride…

A fun idea, but does it work?
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A fun idea, but does it work?

… Nor was it the only object that has been adapted for some other purpose.

It’s small, but it’s warm. That counts for a lot.
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It’s small, but it’s warm. That counts for a lot.

My cabin for the night was just the right size. Easy to heat, and enough room to stretch out. I sorted photos and chatted with my friend Matt about our shared experience with corporate burnout and the rapid evolution of “A.I.” tools in our industry. I was in a dark moment and made the following prediction:

“In the same way that sturdy hiking shoes let a person’s feet stay soft for their entire life with no consequence, ubiquitous AI assistance will let people‘s critical thinking skills stay completely undeveloped from birth to death, and like a good pair of hiking shoes now, we will see it as liberating, and progress.”

I’ve been right about a lot of this technology in the last few years … but I honestly hope my long-term ideas are wrong.

Dig that combination of hot plates and toaster oven. Looks dangerous!
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Dig that combination of hot plates and toaster oven. Looks dangerous!

Near the cabin was a common cooking area that was a little too compact.

The last thing I did before bed was stitch together my GPS recordings, to get an idea of my progress around Norway so far. Not bad!

A little over a week of riding. Not bad, really.
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A little over a week of riding. Not bad, really.

Sheep By The Sea

Narrative pending!

No long periods of awakeness due to cold. Good!
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No long periods of awakeness due to cold. Good!

I’m in the SILO!
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I’m in the SILO!

The usual manager was down in Denmark, but we sorted things out.
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The usual manager was down in Denmark, but we sorted things out.

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There are supposed to be old markings of ships here but I can’t see them…
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There are supposed to be old markings of ships here but I can’t see them…

"Farlig avfall" = "Hazardous waste" I like this mural.
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"Farlig avfall" = "Hazardous waste" I like this mural.

So that’s where all the Skyrim people are hanging out!
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So that’s where all the Skyrim people are hanging out!

Lots of small places to hide from the wind and eat a snack!
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Lots of small places to hide from the wind and eat a snack!

Do NOT try to climb this.
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Do NOT try to climb this.

Cows in Birkeland by invitation only!
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Cows in Birkeland by invitation only!

What is this used for?
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What is this used for?

In case you’re wondering where it is.
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In case you’re wondering where it is.

Your average farm gate.
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Your average farm gate.

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Pretty cool material for an animal pen.
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Pretty cool material for an animal pen.

Every time I look at this bike I think "That’s well-laden!"
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Every time I look at this bike I think "That’s well-laden!"

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Tiny pasture for giant cattle!
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Tiny pasture for giant cattle!

Psst… Your basement is showing!
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Psst… Your basement is showing!

You can tell they don’t get many earthquakes here.
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You can tell they don’t get many earthquakes here.

A charming little spot to sit and read.
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A charming little spot to sit and read.

Tiny island, barely big enough for one bird.
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Tiny island, barely big enough for one bird.

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Welcome to the geopark!
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Welcome to the geopark!

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Don’t drive your RV into the bathrooms.
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Don’t drive your RV into the bathrooms.

I agree with all of this except I do occasionally want to put an RV in the toilet.
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I agree with all of this except I do occasionally want to put an RV in the toilet.

Lammy jam!
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Lammy jam!

Lambtastic!
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Lambtastic!

Bonus lambs!
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Bonus lambs!

Random roadside bridge, no longer in use. Pretty solid work.
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Random roadside bridge, no longer in use. Pretty solid work.

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Brownie break by the roadside.
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Brownie break by the roadside.

Manhole Gallery: Eigersund Kommune D400
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Manhole Gallery: Eigersund Kommune D400

Manhole Gallery: Furnes
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Manhole Gallery: Furnes

Manhole Gallery: Ulefos UFNS 1990H
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Manhole Gallery: Ulefos UFNS 1990H

If I’m experiencing Wienerpolse at a gas station, I will be worried.
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If I’m experiencing Wienerpolse at a gas station, I will be worried.

Small space, but the heat is what matters!
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Small space, but the heat is what matters!

This ascot is DA BEST. You gotta protek you nek.
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This ascot is DA BEST. You gotta protek you nek.

Tasty, but really rich and oily. My intestines sorta panicked!
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Tasty, but really rich and oily. My intestines sorta panicked!