A long late climb

I got nine good hours of sleep — just what I needed!

As I was rearranging my tent, I considered my next move. If I made the ride to Tonopah today I would need a lot of food. The local burger shack didn’t open until 11:00, which meant waiting around for almost two hours, but leaving with enough food was more important than leaving early.

I’d probably stand around eating some of the food right after I got it, so I wouldn’t leave Mina until noon. Then I’d have around 60 miles and 2000 feet of climbing to do, assuming I could ride through the construction zone. My instincts said that was at least 12 hours. With rest breaks, I’d arrive in Tonopah some time after midnight.

If I got to the construction zone and they turned me away, I’d be forced to go back and spend another night in Mina. Then I’d just have to hunker down in the RV park until the road opened. Not a terrible fate, since I could get work and writing done.

Time to get some answers. I washed and shaved in the RV park shower, then packed everything onto the bike.

Packed and ready to go!
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Packed and ready to go!

Then I rolled downhill to the burger joint.

Mmmm, road food.
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Mmmm, road food.

A woman was outside sweeping dust away from the tables. Long sun-bleached hair, strong arms, in her 50’s perhaps. When she saw me she said, “Go ahead and order; Mom’s in there.”

I approached the window and an older woman inside raised the screen, blasting me with a column of air-conditioning. The day was already heating up. She leaned forward and said, in a squeaky birdlike voice:

Mom

“Good morning, dearie! What can I make for you?”

Me

“I’ll have the turkey sandwich, please.”

Mom

“You wan’ all de toppings? Lettuce mayo onion pickle mustard? Wheat bread okay? You wan it toasted?”

Me

“Everything on it, yep. Not toasted.”

Mom

“Okay, dearie, let me just write this down… Turkey… Everything… No toast. Anything more?”

Me

“Yes, could I get the fish and chips too? And a cup of ice-water?”

Mom

“Fish… Ice-water. Anything more?”

Me

“That’ll do it!”

Mom

“Okay dearie. No problem. I get you ice-water.”

Just then the phone rang inside the building and she vanished. I heard her writing down another order, then she came back and I paid the bill.

As soon as I backed away from the window, another woman walked up. Early 70’s, tanned and wiry with a short gray haircut. Much smaller than the other two women. I looked behind me and realized she’d emerged from a gigantic RV that pulled up across the street.

The woman in the building took her order, using a different and more official tone of voice, and without using the word “dearie” at all. Then the daughter finished sweeping and went inside, and the mother-daughter team began cooking up a storm.

The woman from the RV leaned against a table, a respectable distance from me and my bike, and struck up a conversation.

Her

“How far have you gone today?”

Me

“Oh I’m just getting started. Going to try and head south to Tonopah. I heard there was some construction on the highway though and I’m worried about that.”

Her

“Yeah, we just went by that. We’re coming from Arizona.”

Me

“Was there a flagman out, or was it just a bunch of cones and stuff?”

Her

“Bunch of cones, as far as I could tell.”

That was good news to me. It meant I could slip onto the closed highway without being spotted, and then negotiate my way around the actual construction when I was already upon it. The crew would be less likely to turn me away if I was already halfway through.

We chatted some more about travel in the time of COVID-19, and the difficulty of knowing what each day might bring. She was friendly but I could tell she was stressed out — probably from having to detour over 40 extra miles of winding mountain roads this morning.

A man walked up to the burger joint. Top-heavy, with tattooed arms sprouting from a sleeveless flannel shirt, and a friendly, almost goofy expression beneath his thinning crewcut. The mom inside broke away from her cooking to take his order, throwing in a few “dearies”.

He chatted with the woman from the RV. His truck was just down the street, and it had a busted alternator. He’d been stuck up in the mountains for a couple days trying to fix it, then getting ahold of a spare battery so he could limp it into town. From Mina he planned to hop to Hawthorne, where he knew a good mechanic.

A car parked nearby and two young women got out, both showing an unwise amount of skin for the blazing sunlight. They placed an order – no “dearies” for them – and then tucked themselves into another corner of the courtyard. It was getting crowded here.

The screen slid up. “Turkey sandwich and feesh!” said Mom.

I gathered two tinfoil-covered plates and placed them on my bike, then wheeled it about ten yards away. As I was scarfing down the fish, a man in a serape and a wide hat, walking with a stick, came ambling down the hill. He drew near and I saw he was unmistakably African-American. I was secretly delighted to find someone of his ethnicity out here in the boonies of Nevada, and we struck up a conversation.

Him

“That is a really interesting bike you’re riding there. Recumbent I think?”

Me

“You got it! It’s the most comfortable bike I’ve ever had.”

Him

“Oh I bet. Yeah, I used to have a whole bunch of bikes. I think I had six of ’em at one point. Used to ride around everywhere.”

Me

“Well, you know what they say. The right number of bikes to have is one more than the number you have now.”

Him

“Hah! Yeah. You know, bicycling saved my life.”

Me

“Yeah?”

Him

“I was in a bad way. About ten years ago. I couldn’t work, and I wasn’t taking care of myself. I had this friend. He had … what’s it called … Spina bifida. He had a bicycle, and he rode it a little each day. I asked him ‘How do you ride that? Isn’t it really painful?’ and he told me, ‘I just ride through the pain.’ Ride through the pain, he said. I decided that day to get myself a bicycle.”

Me

“Wow! Yeah, I know exactly what you mean. I was having a serious health problem about ten years ago. Probably not the same thing you were going through, but I got out and rode my bike, and it healed me.”

Him

“Healed you! Exactly. I got that bike – it was a real clunker but I didn’t care – and I rode it all over Richmond, made loops, went out and back all over the place. Longest ride I did was Richmond all the way to Sacramento.”

Me

“You’re from Richmond? I’m from Oakland!”

Him

“Hey, right on!”

We had a lively talk about the wonders of bicycling. He drew in the gravel with his stick, describing his favorite routes. He’d gotten six flat tires on his way to Sacramento, and it had taken three days. He’d lived in South San Jose for a few years, and rode his bike up to San Francisco on a regular basis. He said that in the beginning, when he was still struggling, he was homeless for a while and would ride from town to town sleeping rough. The police would threaten to arrest him, and he’d say, “Hey, please do! At least I’ll sleep somewhere secure, you know?”

“So how’d you get out into the middle of nowhere in Nevada?” I asked.

He described a land-stewardship program that the state of Nevada was running. They sold him a chunk of land on the edge of Mina for a hundred bucks, and he promised to manage it, perhaps try ranching or farming.

“It’s tough out here, though, because of the thieves,” he said.

“Really? I figured people out here would be more honest.”

“Oh most people really are. But it’s the addicts. They’ll sneak onto your property and steal anything then can get. As soon as I got here I had to build a fence around my land, then I had to MacGyver myself a firearm to keep scaring them off.”

We both commiserated over the economy, the lack of social programs and support for addicts, and how it was hard to do the right thing while still being safe. I walked my empty plate to the trash can. He wished me luck on my journey, shook my hand, and went over to the burger joint to place an order.

Time to get rolling!

70 miles and well over 2000 feet of climb. This is the big one today.
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70 miles and well over 2000 feet of climb. This is the big one today.

First up: Several more amusing critter-crossing signs.

I am amused by how many different signs for four-legged highway invaders I can find along this route.
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I am amused by how many different signs for four-legged highway invaders I can find along this route.

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Then some serious utility infrastructure of utmost Kwality™:

Infrastructure!
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Infrastructure!

And then, to my astonishment, a brothel.

Yep, it’s a brothel. Nevada is weird.
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Yep, it’s a brothel. Nevada is weird.

The sign looks new, even though the place looks decrepit.
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The sign looks new, even though the place looks decrepit.

The main building was a big flat square, surrounded by freestanding white Roman columns like posts for an invisible fence. The columns were probably meant to add a feeling of classy reverence, like “here be goddesses,” but they appeared to be melting in the weather as though they were made of plaster, and the building itself badly needed a coat of paint. This weird establishment was plopped down in the center of a dirt and gravel parking lot. No cars were near it, though several broken or wrecked trucks and some construction equipment slowly roasted in the sun on the opposite side of the lot. The effect was like the building actually repelled cars.

Some distance behind this weird “temple” was another building, rectangular with a metal roof. Four joined rooms like a motel, each with a door. Printed across the roof in ten-foot letters was the word “PLAYMATE”.

I rolled by too quickly to get a picture – in fact I felt a sense of revulsion that compelled me to keep going, like the building was a giant predatory insect – but now I wish I’d taken a few shots just to document the sheer absurdity of it.

Later on I did some reading, out of curiosity:

Wild, weird stuff.

I crested a hill and then began a very long, slow descent into a valley. The wind was blowing squarely against me at least 20mph, so I had to pedal to make downward progress. I felt less frustrated than usual because I might have to turn around at the detour ahead, and in that case the wind would blow me right back up this hill with ease.

Almost to the construction area…
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Almost to the construction area…

I rolled up to the intersection with the cones and saw a truck parked next to them. I dismounted my bike nearby, and a woman in an official uniform and a hard hat got out the truck.

Before I could ask her anything, she said: “You can probably get through. There’s just a small section a few miles in where we’re resurfacing the highway, and it has a 2-inch drop, so you’ll need to be careful of that. But I can radio ahead to my boss and let the trucks know you’re coming, and you can probably just ride on through.”

What a pleasant surprise!

“That would be wonderful,” I said. “‘Cause that detour would probably be too much for me to handle.”

She nodded and got on her radio, and I took out my thermos of ice water and poured a cup. When she finished I offered her some.

“Oh no, I’ve got plenty in the truck, thanks. You can go on ahead!” She grabbed one of the big cylindrical cones and pulled it aside, making a gap wide enough for

Dang; that was easy!

I pedaled onto the empty road, feeling like royalty. Every twenty minutes or so a big-rig dump truck clattered by, going in or out, but aside from those I had the whole surface to myself. I stopped to drink more water and fish out a chocolate bar, and was disoriented by the silence. I could see cars moving along the detour in the distance but I couldn’t hear them at all.

Terrain that ain’t good for much other than ranching or passing through…
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Terrain that ain’t good for much other than ranching or passing through…

For the next hour or so I went slowly into the mountains. The dump trucks continued to roll by. Then at the top of a hill, I saw a regular truck coming down towards me. It pulled to a stop and another woman in a construction hat waved hello.

“Hello! My boss sent me down here to talk to you. We’ve got a lot of trucks passing in and out of here, and sometimes when the road is closed they don’t pay a lot of attention to where they’re going. So my boss is worried for your safety. Do you need to pass through?”

I explained that I was on a bicycle trip headed south, and the detour would be too difficult, so ideally I could pass through instead of turning around.

“Okay, well, we don’t really want you riding through the site, but how about if we put your bike in my truck and I give you a ride to the other side of it?”

I quickly realized this was my best option, as well as a generous offer. The only other thing I could do was turn around and spend the rest of the day biking back to Mina, then probably back to Hawthorne from there.

“That sounds great; thank you!” I said.

She turned the truck around on the road, and I detached all of my bike bags. Together we lifted the bike into the rear of the truck and I tucked a few bags under it to keep pressure off the lower rack. Then I hopped in the cab. She spoke briefly on the radio, and we were off.

For the next half an hour she drove me slowly through the construction zone, threading around large trucks and earth-moving equipment. We kept up a light conversation about landmarks to see in Nevada, the economic impact of COVID-19, and teaching the old members of our family how to use the internet. I learned that this particular repair job was sandwiched between two other tough jobs, and was being rushed in order to keep the schedule. The recent earthquake – a long one in the 6.0 range – had pulverized several parts of the road and the crew had less than a week remaining to clean it all up.

“Oh jeez,” I said. “And here I come along on my little remote-work joyride and slow you folks down even more.”

“Oh don’t worry about it. This won’t take much time at all.”

In the back of my mind I was a little disappointed that I could no longer claim I had pedaled every mile of this journey, but I knew I didn’t have a choice — and besides, she’d carried me over the hardest part of the day’s ride on a day that called for way too much riding anyway. 65 miles and 2500 feet was beyond my standard budget. She’d subtracted 1000 feet and probably 10 miles from that.

Once we were beyond the construction, she pulled aside and we unloaded the bike.

“It’s all good road from here,” she said. “Be safe on your ride! I hope the wind is with you!”

“Thanks! I hope your work gets done on time!”

I hooked my bags in place, then poured some more ice water and stood around drinking it.

Time for more icewater.
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Time for more icewater.

It’s a bit like making tea in England: There’s a ritual.
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It’s a bit like making tea in England: There’s a ritual.

Then I checked my phone and realized I needed to be in a work conference. I dialed in, then got on the bike and pedaled as I took part. Two bars of LTE signal out here in the middle of nowhere. What a world.

The vanishing road…
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The vanishing road…

While the call was going I spotted a lizard by the road, and this time I decided to take a photo instead of just chasing it into the desert like a madman. I rolled to a stop, with the conference still going.

Local lizard!
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Local lizard!

Check out that super-long tail!
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Check out that super-long tail!

A few more miles of easy riding later, I reached the end of the detour. Now the road would get noisy again. Oh well.

Finally reached the end of the detour.
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Finally reached the end of the detour.

I recognized the intersection from my route research. This was Coaldale. The wasted buildings scattered here used to be a truck stop and motel. It was populated and running in 1991, abandoned by 1998, and burned mostly to the ground by 2006. Now it looks like this:

What a fine vacation home!
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What a fine vacation home!

If this were Oakland, there would be 150 people hunkered down here.
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If this were Oakland, there would be 150 people hunkered down here.

People sure love spraypainting random crap.
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People sure love spraypainting random crap.

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Various opinions.
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Various opinions.

Good advertising!
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Good advertising!

In another bizarro juxtaposition of modern life, I walked around the site snapping pictures while actively taking part in a teleconference for work.

Long lonely road.
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Long lonely road.

I rode on. The conference ended. I chomped my sandwich from the burger shack. I listened to more of the materials science audiobook, then some podcasts. The scenery continued to be mesmerizing.

Colorful hills.
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Colorful hills.

Nice place to go for a stroll.
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Nice place to go for a stroll.

I’ve no idea what this building is. It’s not labeled on any map.
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I’ve no idea what this building is. It’s not labeled on any map.

A random rest area.
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A random rest area.

Some local history.
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Some local history.

More of that big sky…
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More of that big sky…

The day is moving on…
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The day is moving on…

Tens of thousands of scraps like this line the highway.
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Tens of thousands of scraps like this line the highway.

I still had about 30 miles and 1200 feet of climb to deal with. The motel I’d called in Tonopah was open 24 hours, so at least I didn’t have to worry about showing up to a locked door.

"The Lone Mountain" ahead.
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"The Lone Mountain" ahead.

As the sun went down, the wind shifted direction and finally favored me. I covered ten miles of flat ground quickly as twilight became full darkness.

On my left I noticed a column of blinking red lights in the distance, like a radio tower, except it was too low on the landscape. Radio towers are usually up on hills. I got curious and pulled up a satellite map. A few seconds of scrolling around showed me this:

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50083777533/
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crescent_dunes_1
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50083777753/
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crescent_dunes_2

It’s the Crescent Dunes Concentrating Solar Power Plant. Pretty fascinating technology!

Toothy shadows at night.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50002750887/
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2020-06-11_21-43-33_IMG_3523

Toothy shadows at night.

The darkness felt comfortable, like the walls of a familiar home, and a little bit spooky as well. To complement the scene I listened to some radio shows:

These turned out to be a perfect fit, because the ride into Tonopah was extremely taxing, and I needed something to keep myself awake and keep my – pun intended – spirits up.

Moon over Tonopah.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50002153603/
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2020-06-12_01-19-19_2020-06-12_01-19-19-94-07-00_E33A6128

Moon over Tonopah.

The last ten miles of the approach to Tonopah were straight up a steadily increasing grade, so progress became more difficult just as my legs became less energetic. I could see the lights of the town above me in the distance, growing larger imperceptibly as the hours passed. Just to add to the challenge, the wind had turned on me again and was blowing an irregular 10mph.

It was 3:00am by the time I reached the motel and checked in. If that construction worker hadn’t given me a ride earlier in the day, I would have been cycling until 4:30am or even later, or probably just set up a tent in the “rest area” at the base of the mountain and had a dusty, noisy night of sleep.

It all worked out! Time to sleep six hours and then do three hours of work meetings…

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All The Way To Yerington

Finally a good night of sleep! I packed everything up and set out, heading south towards a sporting goods store. I wanted to find something like a loose kerchief to augment my bandana against sunburn.

Unfortunately the store didn’t have any. “The second we put anything like a bandana up on the shelves, people come in and buy them all,” the clerk said. Well that makes sense. COVID-19 is about.

Before exiting I paused at the gallery of photos arrayed on the wall by the doors. All snapshots of men in hunting gear posting next to freshly killed animals, including a gangly kid about 14 years old standing over a deer with the caption “first kill,” a guy standing over what looked like an African ibex, and a guy brandishing a big silver rotary-barrel pistol and propping one foot up on the head of a giant warthog. Left of the gallery was a large sign declaring “To purchase a firearm you must have a valid ID and be 18 years of age or older.”

It occurred to me that I could buy a handgun right here in about 20 minutes, walk outside with it, and tuck it into my bike bag. No questions asked.

The idea repulsed me. On bike trips like this one I’m surrounded by cars and some of them do very rude things. I can distinctly remember times when I’ve been so angry at the behavior of a motorist that, if I’d had a gun nearby, I would have taken aim with it. Perhaps even fired.

Why would I give myself that power? What would be the point of it? Safety? I am voluntarily using a mode of travel that places my life in the hands of other people, hundreds of separate times every day, as they drive past me on the road. If they wanted to they could obliterate me in a split second. The level of trust I’m operating on is extremely high. It wouldn’t really be consistent for me to be packing heat on a bike tour!

Outside the store, as I was putting away my hat and mask, a tall man walked up to me. “Where ya headed?” he said.

“Down to Carlsbad, California eventually.”

“Wonderful! Interesting that you’re using a recumbent. I did a bunch of bike tours myself, years ago. All across Oregon and up the coast…”

We had a fun chat about the bike touring experience and how unique it is, and how hard it is to eat enough calories to keep going every day. “I had to eat as I went,” the man said. “I learned this skill: I could prop my elbows on the handlebars and peel an orange with both hands, and eat it, without slowing down!”

I handed him one of my little cards with the website on it and he wished me a safe journey. Who knows, maybe he’ll be inspired to get back in the saddle again?

Anyway, time to head east! Along the way I did a zig-zag to catch this cute park:

Okay, how many people thought this was "Smills Park"? I know I did.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977667548_a051f15874_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/49977667548/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977667548_a051f15874_s.jpg
2020-06-05_10-26-19_IMG_3282

Okay, how many people thought this was "Smills Park"? I know I did.

Then I got to the main highway out of town, route 50. Serious business ahead.

As a bicyclist, this is one of those views where you think "I know what I’m going to be doing for the next hour…"
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977667138_f85feeaaf6_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/49977667138/
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As a bicyclist, this is one of those views where you think "I know what I’m going to be doing for the next hour…"

I took a brief detour to check out this old cemetery:

Visiting the Empire Cemetery.
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Visiting the Empire Cemetery.

The cemetery is tucked into a gap between a cement works and a waste management facility.
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The cemetery is tucked into a gap between a cement works and a waste management facility.

Pretty good repair job!
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Pretty good repair job!

What a story!
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What a story!

The Danes came here long before I visited the country of the Danes…
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The Danes came here long before I visited the country of the Danes…

"And our babies" adds an interesting touch of creepy to this marker.
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"And our babies" adds an interesting touch of creepy to this marker.

History of the cemetery.
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History of the cemetery.

On the way back to the main road I spotted this:

Tucked in with all the broken air conditioners and heaters is a big stack of "LimeBike" bicycles. Thanks, Silicon Valley…
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Tucked in with all the broken air conditioners and heaters is a big stack of "LimeBike" bicycles. Thanks, Silicon Valley…

About an hour later I crested the big hill, and did a frightening descent on the other side, hitting nearly 40 miles per hour riding along the shoulder of the road. On a racing bike that doesn’t seem to scary, but when you’ve got 75 extra pounds of bags and gear and water adding to your momentum, it really gets your heart rate up!

I continued along highway 50 going northeast in a straight line, grateful for the tailwind. It was still early in the day when I got to Fort Churchill Road. At that point I needed to make a decision: Continue northeast and cut a big horseshoe around the Churchill Butte, so I could continue south on ALT 95… Or take the shortcut due east, following the Carson River along Fort Churchill Road. The northeast route was longer but paved all the way. Fort Churchill Road was more scenic and less crowded, but the majority of it was gravel and dirt.

“Well, I’ve got my nice touring tires on, and there’s still plenty of daylight. Why not be adventurous?”

I cycled east, and in about ten minutes the pavement vanished.

Uh oh, gravel road ahead…
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Uh oh, gravel road ahead…

For the next hour I had a pretty good time. The road wasn’t too lumpy and I got plenty of traction.

Cruising along.
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Cruising along.

Then I started to hit pockets of dust that had accumulated from rain and wind. Over and over again, the bike would lurch, and I’d have to pedal like mad to keep traction on the rear wheel, or stop and push the bike until I was clear of the drift. This cost time and effort and was extremely annoying. I began to swear at the road.

Hideous road for a bicyclist.
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Hideous road for a bicyclist.

For several hours, my mood went back and forth between happiness and panic. I would pedal merrily along smelling the air and looking at nature, then suddenly flail to keep the bike upright.

The sky is lovely, it’s a mere 90 degrees, and the wind is with me… What a fine day! Now if only the road was in better shape.
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The sky is lovely, it’s a mere 90 degrees, and the wind is with me… What a fine day! Now if only the road was in better shape.

On balance, it was still enjoyable, though if I had the choice again I wouldn’t take this shortcut.

Just in case you city people are confused, that sign does not read, "No fires; no barbecues; laptops OK." That’s a propane stove.
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Just in case you city people are confused, that sign does not read, "No fires; no barbecues; laptops OK." That’s a propane stove.

Some welcome shade on this dusty road.
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Some welcome shade on this dusty road.

Very twisty rocks up there!
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Very twisty rocks up there!

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Luckily I did not have to take this road. The road I was on was bad enough already!!
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Luckily I did not have to take this road. The road I was on was bad enough already!!

One thing I definitely wouldn’t have seen on the other route: A bunch of tumbleweeds rolling along in front of me!

At the halfway point along Fort Churchill Road, I passed through the Nevada Automotive Test Center and got to ogle some of the concept vehicles they were testing for the army. Neato!

Some interesting "concept vehicles" for the army are kept here at the Nevada Automotive Test Center.
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Some interesting "concept vehicles" for the army are kept here at the Nevada Automotive Test Center.

Now if only these jerks would do something about the road leading to their compound.

As I approached highway 95, I passed by a chunk of the Pony Express trail.

I’ve often wondered… Why not the "Horse Express?" Aren’t ponies slow?
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I’ve often wondered… Why not the "Horse Express?" Aren’t ponies slow?

Near that was the Fort Churchill State Historic Park.

It looked neat, but not quite neat enough to compel me to stop.
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It looked neat, but not quite neat enough to compel me to stop.

It looked less interesting than I imagined it would, mostly because of how it was preserved. Some time in the past the fort had been abandoned and fallen almost completely to ruin. Then people came along and re-formed the walls, creating what the official website calls “a state of arrested decay.” Perhaps they just didn’t have the money or the interest to rebuild it how it was, so they compromised. I can understand that. But the now place looks like somebody’s foam rubber LARP arena.

Two bucks to get in, for a cyclist. Not bad.
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Two bucks to get in, for a cyclist. Not bad.

Admission was cheap, and there were camp sites as well, but I felt ambitious and decided to press on to Yerington.

If only there had been a sign at the OTHERE end of the road, warning me it was "dirt"!
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If only there had been a sign at the OTHERE end of the road, warning me it was "dirt"!

I turned right on highway ALT 95. I could do 25 miles and 600 feet of climb before nightfall, right? No sweat!

Riding up the shoulder, on the outside of the rumble strip. Very little room but the cars were polite.
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Riding up the shoulder, on the outside of the rumble strip. Very little room but the cars were polite.

Did I say there was very little room before? Okay, now there’s even less…
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Did I say there was very little room before? Okay, now there’s even less…

I rode steadily along, stopping regularly to drink water and scarf Thai food.

The day moved into evening. The wind shifted as well, though it was still partially at my back so I was happy.

Scrubby scrubland.
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Scrubby scrubland.

A nice flat valley ahead.
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A nice flat valley ahead.

Those weeds grow to some amazing heights!
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Those weeds grow to some amazing heights!

15 miles to go! All right!

Folks are clearly having a good time on this ranch.
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Folks are clearly having a good time on this ranch.

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I passed some groovy local architecture. Nice to see people are keeping it interesting.

Pretty evening clouds.
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Pretty evening clouds.

Then the wind started hitting me directly on the side, slowing me down. I had to zig-zag along the shoulder to make course corrections, and that cost me energy. I drained my second water sack. There was a pile of ice at the bottom, and I would need to wait for it to melt before I could drink more water. That was some poor planning!

Night fell. I turned on my headlight. A grisly yellow moon floated up from the eastern horizon, setting the scene without granting me any illumination. It was late, so I called ahead to the various hotels in Yerington and reserved a room. Thank goodness there were rooms free, because the wind was now blasting hard from the west at something like 40mph. Dirt and debris were streaming around the trunks of the trees lining the highway. Even if I could find a place to stealth camp, there was absolutely no way I could keep a tent upright on open ground.

A decent room. Only a little stinky.
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A decent room. Only a little stinky.

It was well after 10pm when I finally made it to town. As I rolled into the hotel parking lot a group of people on the upper floor pointed at me and cheered and applauded. “Hey, you made it!” one of them yelled. “We saw you back at the train station!” I gave them a thumbs-up and smiled.

I dragged my bike into the room and ate the rest of my cold Thai food in a daze, then fell gratefully into bed. Tomorrow would be another “day off” for writing code.

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Coding In Carson City

Much better than the hotel room from yesterday, and ten bucks cheaper.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977667818_5e7544a96e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/49977667818/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49977667818_5e7544a96e_s.jpg
2020-06-05_09-26-25_IMG_3280

Much better than the hotel room from yesterday, and ten bucks cheaper.

Windburn on the face, sunburn on the neck. I need to to a better job covering up.
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Windburn on the face, sunburn on the neck. I need to to a better job covering up.

I did my best to write code for work today, but a bad night of sleep took the wind out of me. I find that when I’m sleep deprived I can do almost everything involved with my job – meetings, tickets, debugging, evaluating merge requests, writing documentation – but I struggle mightily with writing new code.

After staring at a piece of back-end database code I needed to modify and not making any progress for 90 minutes, I decided it was time to give up. I ate leftover Thai food and watched more of the Vietnam War documentary, then did some reading about the protests from 1968, and how they were used as fodder to get Richard Nixon elected.

50 years ago, protests and riots broke out when Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. The Republican candidate for president ran on a platform of “law and order,” promising to bring the protestors and rioters to heel, and accused the Democratic party of encouraging lawlessness and anarchy. The promise worked. Scared, guilty, or indignant people – usually white – envisioned a furious horde of dark people smashing their windows, crawling into their houses, and personally assaulting them, and they cast their votes in favor of the candidate who would – above any civil rights concerns – protect their bodies and property. Nixon won by a wide margin.

(The irony of course is that the damage from rioting and looting consistently happened in poor urban areas far from the white middle class. All the more fodder for those white people to call them animals, for smashing up “their own” neighborhoods. Ugh.)

I’m pretty sure the current Republican candidate is going to use the same page from the same playbook. In the run up to November’s election we’ll all be hearing about these protests every day, from talk-show pundits and lunatics like I overheard on the train, drumming up the call for “law and order”, accusing any and all Democrats of “siding with the looters”, et cetera. The perfect fear-stoking smoke screen over the last four years of crass, divisive rhetoric from the commander-in-chief.

It looks like current events are going to bleed through and set the tone for this bike journey. Turns out I can’t get any distance from them, especially not in rural Nevada. So be it.

To Carson City

Hey, I know! I’ll go for a swim before I head out!

Pools are off limits these days.
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Pools are off limits these days.

Oops, COVID-19 strikes again… That’s okay; I didn’t even bring swim trunks.

I threaded my way to the southern edge of Reno, taking my time. As usual just about everyone gave me strange looks because of the bicycle. Definitely a good thing since it increases my visibility.

I got onto “ALT 395”, which runs alongside interstate 580, and settled in for a long afternoon. My progress was slowed by a steady headwind. As I went I kept a tally of the number and kind of dead animals along the road. Eventually I got to 3 squished snakes, 2 smashed rabbits, 2 dead birds, and 2 dead deer, one of whom apparently expired with its head stuck between the wires of a fence. (It’s grim but I find that if I pay attention to it for a day, I can usually stop noticing it on subsequent days.)

I also passed a lot of construction projects, some involving the road. People in yellow hats, carrying clipboards and driving machinery, shouting at each other. Long strings of cones. Sometimes it’s hard to tell there’s a pandemic happening.

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I found out later that this is the “Ormat Steamboat Power Plant”. A renewable energy project.

Not sure what species is being protected, but it’s nice to see Nevada cares.
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Not sure what species is being protected, but it’s nice to see Nevada cares.

Apparently the plant is built in an area that is home to some protected species? Not sure which one…

Can’t help but think of an old industrial noise band when I see this logo…
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Can’t help but think of an old industrial noise band when I see this logo…

The elevated interstate highway.
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The elevated interstate highway.

Not a sign I see in Oakland!
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Not a sign I see in Oakland!

Yep, there’s still snow up there!
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Yep, there’s still snow up there!

Who needs Google Maps? Everything’s labeled!
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Who needs Google Maps? Everything’s labeled!

Can’t decide what to do with your extra scrap of corrugated aluminum roofing? Flag!
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Can’t decide what to do with your extra scrap of corrugated aluminum roofing? Flag!

Politics here are very different from my home town.
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Politics here are very different from my home town.

While I was parked by the side of the road drinking water and chomping a half-melted candy bar, a man walked out of the house nearby and asked if I was alright. He was wearing a t-shirt and shorts, and a metal cross hung from a chain on the outside of his shirt.

“Oh, I’m fine,” I said. “I just have to do a lot of eating in order to keep pedaling all this gear around,” I said, and gestured to the bike. “Thanks for checking in, though.”

We chatted about bicycling for a while, and he said “Okay, well let me know if you need anything. Safe travels. God bless.”

I was grateful as always for the interest, and his salutation of “God bless” was an interesting reminder for me: I’m no longer in urban California. People around here have the Christian faith woven into their speech as the standard. I didn’t mind, of course; it was just interesting to think about how I sometimes feel more at home in almost any large urban center regardless of country than I feel out in the middle of my own country.

That feeling was amplified by the ‘Trump’ sign planted in front of the house down the street.

Suddenly in a thoughtful mood, I climbed aboard the bike and pedaled on.

Hot road. I could feel my tires sliding on the tar in a couple of places.
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Hot road. I could feel my tires sliding on the tar in a couple of places.

If this rock isn’t called St. Bernard Rock, I’ll be surprised.
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If this rock isn’t called St. Bernard Rock, I’ll be surprised.

When sagebrush gets a little too much water!
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When sagebrush gets a little too much water!

If this stick house were in the Bay Area it would be worth $350,000
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If this stick house were in the Bay Area it would be worth $350,000

It’s like a colony of fluffy cat tails! (Actual "cat tail" plants don’t look nearly as fluffy.)
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It’s like a colony of fluffy cat tails! (Actual "cat tail" plants don’t look nearly as fluffy.)

Whispery grass.
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Whispery grass.

Two carriages in a wee glass house, with my very modern bike in the reflection.
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Two carriages in a wee glass house, with my very modern bike in the reflection.

Lots of birds hanging out in the preserve area.
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Lots of birds hanging out in the preserve area.

Big views near the lake.
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Big views near the lake.

After a while I passed a small herd of deer running around in a field next to the road. A half mile later I passed a large sign reading “Deer Run Farm.” A smaller sign next to that read “No Trespassing” and another sign next to that read “No Hunting.” I assume some literal-minded folks had tried to shoot deer from the road without technically trespassing on the farm, requiring that third sign!

Deer Run Farm lives up to its name!
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Deer Run Farm lives up to its name!

Deer out and about.
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Deer out and about.

I also passed a number of monuments to roadside fatalities.

Some poor fellow met an untimely end here. Asleep at the wheel? Hit an animal? Drunk driver?
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Some poor fellow met an untimely end here. Asleep at the wheel? Hit an animal? Drunk driver?

Name obscured.
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Name obscured.

Another bleak memorial to a fallen traveler
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Another bleak memorial to a fallen traveler

Continuing the grim spectacle, I found this at a turnout:

Some deer don’t make it.
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Some deer don’t make it.

Closeup of the deer.
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Closeup of the deer.

A little ways after that I passed under the interstate highway, and began a climb up through a well-manicured suburban neighborhood. Out of curiosity I looked up the house prices on Zillow: It was a range from 700k up to 1.5 million. This was obviously the glamorous part of Carson City.

At the same time I hit the highest point on the day’s ride:

Highest elevation for the day. 5300 feet!
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Highest elevation for the day. 5300 feet!

From there it was all downhill, blasting down towards Carson City on a steep road. The wind tore the visor off my helmet and I had to walk back up the hill and fetch it, but I considered myself lucky because it landed on the road and was easy to spot. From there I turned onto a paved bicycle-only path that ran along the hillside for several miles. A real bike path! A pleasant surprise.

First stop: The capitol building. Very serene and shady.

Outside the Nevada State Capitol building. Dig that silver roof!
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Outside the Nevada State Capitol building. Dig that silver roof!

I meandered around town a bit more before checking into a hotel.

That explains the cool bike path I found earlier.
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That explains the cool bike path I found earlier.

Carson City style! I think Jack is handing out "Howdy bucks." I wonder what they buy?
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Carson City style! I think Jack is handing out "Howdy bucks." I wonder what they buy?

I booked two days, knowing that since this was my first day back on the road I would need some time to adjust. Besides, I had work to do. And I also needed to eat a bunch of food!

Getting me two days’ worth of some fine thai food. Going to spend tomorrow resting and working.
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Getting me two days’ worth of some fine thai food. Going to spend tomorrow resting and working.

Managed to get it all back to the hotel with no spills!
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2020-06-03_19-35-10_IMG_3264

Managed to get it all back to the hotel with no spills!

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The Train To Reno

As usual before a big trip, I didn’t sleep well. Too excited.

Setting out in the morning. The shades are concealing some very tired eyeballs!

I had a few extra minutes before I needed to hit the train station, so I got a donut and a mocha, to supplement the big chunks of bread I’d pilfered from the kitchen on the way out. The previous night I’d been watching the South Park episode “All About Mormons” while trying to repair my camping light, and the song was now bouncing all over my sleep-deprived brain. I couldn’t remember the lyrics though. As I rode to the train station I sang:

Joseph Smith he was a Mormon
      Dum dum dum dum dummm
Farty-pantsy pantsy-farty
      Dum dum dum dum dummm

Transporting a bicycle on the train is so much easier than transporting one by air, it’s almost disorienting. You just get a luggage tag for it like any other piece of luggage, and make sure you’re early in line to load the bike on the train so the attendant has time to prepare.

Just tag the bike, remove the bags, and hand it up to the luggage car. Amazingly easy.

Take your bags off and carry them with you, or check them too if you like. That’s it. No box and no disassembly required. (I assume this is because the train service is terribly under-utilized right now due to COVID-19, because the regulations state that you need some kind of bike carrier box. I asked the clerk about it the day before and he said a box would not be needed.)

Writing code as we move across the land.

Now you can see how tired I am!

I’d purchased a little private room, because I wanted a safe place to stick five big chunks of luggage, and some relative isolation from the other passengers. It wasn’t much more expensive than a regular ticket, and the table was helpful for getting work done.

All I had to do was sit, and the landscape slowly transformed outside the window until I was in Reno:

The ride was quite pleasant, though there was a dark spot. I could overhear someone playing a talk show on their phone with the volume turned way up. The little speaker carried right through the wall. It was some obviously right-wing pundit screaming at the top of his lungs, about how Democrats are ruining the country because they’re saying there’s systemic racism.

“What systemic racism?” screamed the pundit. “The officer who killed George Floyd was arrested and charged with murder! The system obviously works! What are these people complaining about?”

What? That didn’t make sense. The pundit was either deliberately not mentioning, or just plain ignorant, that all the repercussions for Floyd’s death have come about because the four police officers who pinned him down were recorded by onlookers, who then raised hell. No recording, no uproar. One of the officers even tried to prevent the recording, by ordering the onlookers to stop, then brandishing pepper spray.

This is all aside from the fact that Floyd was being arrested on suspicion of using a counterfeit bill at a nearby market. That’s not even a violent crime; not even close. If I write a bad check, I get a 35 dollar fine. George Floyd was strangled slowly to death face-down in a public street by the police for the equivalent.

This information is everywhere online and trivial to verify. And yet, I’m hearing this talk show pundit have a full-scale 100-meter freestyle whimpering hissy-fit, which goes on for half an hour, based on an ignorance of the facts that it would have taken him 30 seconds on a smartphone to dispel. How could it be anything but deliberate?

“The Democrats want these protests to happen! They want the looting to happen! They don’t care if the whole police force gets defunded and the country sinks into anarchy, they just want Republicans to die. This is a war on white middle class people and it’s based on lies!”

Deliberate construction of an enemy, blaming it for every problem, stoking fear and impotent rage. What people are drawn to this? Why do they take it in? What do they get for spending hours absorbing it?

These are the times we live in. Honestly, I’d feel much better if the passenger on the other side of the wall was just watching porn.

I put in my headphones and ignored the voice. Then the ride was great again. I only left the compartment twice to use the bathroom, and wore my mask and washed my hands thoroughly each time. Getting sick is no way to start a bike trip!

I could tell when I was getting close to Reno because the number of hidden homeless camps sharply increased.

Homeless huts tucked in along the railroad are a thing in Reno too. The only difference between these and the ones in Oakland is the occupant is more likely to be addicted to meth than to crack.

At the Reno station, I marched out to the platform with my bags. The man at the luggage car already had my bike at the doorway, and he handed it down to me. And just like that, I was in Reno with all my gear! Why do I travel on airplanes…?

Bike off the train; bags off the train. All in less than three minutes. So much better than flying.

Outside the air was fresh and it was only 88 degrees. I rode around a bit to orient myself.

Big sky in Reno!
All bundled up to ride around the town.
More big sky.
Got to photograph the silly arch!
Local protestors. Not very many of them, but they're out and about.
A whale of a sculpture!

The main drag was a forest of construction cones. Looks like the city is jumping on the chance to get a lot of work done while people are away.

Lots of construction happening on the main drag in Reno, taking advantage of the light traffic from COVID-19 and curfews.

I rode southeast for a little while and checked into a sorta-sketchy hotel near a mexican restaurant, then got some to-go food and munched it while watching a documentary on the Vietnam War. It seemed appropriate for the times.

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First day of riding tomorrow! Big day!