Down To Beatty

The “breakfast” part of “bed and breakfast” was quite pleasant. There was one other guest but I never saw her, since she departed early in the morning. It was just me at the dining room table, looking out into the back yard, while the owner rustled up a plate of eggs and toast.

We didn’t talk much, but I did ask what inspired her to get so many peacocks. “Did you just start with two and they multiplied or something?”

“No, they were already wandering around when this place was a brothel.”

I laughed. I guess it made sense. Exotic rooms, exotic birds…

One of the critters responsible for my poor sleep last night!
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One of the critters responsible for my poor sleep last night!

Look at them all, lined up right outside the window to my room. The jerks!
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Look at them all, lined up right outside the window to my room. The jerks!

This one isn’t as noisy as the live ones.
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This one isn’t as noisy as the live ones.

When I stepped outside I discovered why they had been so loud at night. There was a railing next to the building right outside my bedroom window, and the birds were roosting along it in a line, facing the wall. They had been just a few feet from my ears the entire night. I pointed this out to the owner and she apologized, but gave no indication that she’d change anything to stop it from happening again.

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2020-06-17_09-53-36_Peacocks at the Shady Lady
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“Oh well,” I thought. “It’s not my problem now. This is probably the one time in my entire life that I’ll be on this highway, in fact.”

I cued up an audiobook and got to pedaling. The day wasn’t as hot as yesterday, so I drank less water, which meant fewer pee stops, which meant more continuous time in the saddle. Hours sailed by as I gazed at the dusty landscape.

For a while I amused myself by yelling random things out loud, knowing that nobody could hear me. “Sassen fracken backen!!” I yelled. “Blithering blarney-stones! Blatherskite! Balderdash! Brig’ a Doooon!” I shouted the lyrics to “Au Contraire” by They Might Be Giants, then practiced my fake Scottish accent. Eventually I settled on screaming the word “UNDERPANTS!!” over and over at top volume.

I imagined a historian, following alongside me on their own bicycle, documenting my important words for future civilizations to ponder. Then I imagined getting flattened by a truck.

The historian would survey the wreckage, sigh, and then write with a flourish: “Let the record show that the last thing he said before he died was the word ‘underpants.'”

“Perfect,” I thought. … “UNDERPAAANTS!!!”

Farm fresh WiFi! (Wait, what does that even mean!?)
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Farm fresh WiFi! (Wait, what does that even mean!?)

The hills ran out, and the road became one long downhill glide, with a roomy shoulder, unspooling beneath my wheels for over an hour. “Fantastic!” I thought, and even made a little video to remember it.

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After enjoying that for a while I encountered the remnants of another brothel, with an amusing sign.

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Angel’s ladies are closed! You’ll just have to wait for the afterlife to enjoy them, my friends.

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I peed on the sign, since it offered concealment from the road. Then I noticed this amusing piece of junk nearby:

Too many stickers; too heavy to fly.
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Too many stickers; too heavy to fly.

It was covered with an incredible sticker collection. Too bad it’s all the way out here where no one can admire it.

Opinions: Everybody’s got ’em!
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Opinions: Everybody’s got ’em!

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Probably a prop from Burning Man, dropped here by someone who either wanted to store it, it just abandon it without trying to recycle the materials.

Not sure if this is an endorsement or what, but I am amused.
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Not sure if this is an endorsement or what, but I am amused.

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There might be a few controls missing…
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There might be a few controls missing…

I wonder what horrible accident happened to spur the creation of this sticker…
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I wonder what horrible accident happened to spur the creation of this sticker…

Definitely my favorite sticker on this plane.
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Definitely my favorite sticker on this plane.

A few miles after that lovely exhibit I finally coasted into the town of Beatty. First thing I did was walk into the casino, hoping for a cheap room. They were nearly 200 dollars. Ugh! Next thing I did was walk over to the Motel 6. Less than 100 dollars! Better.

First ice cream store in two weeks. Of course I’m having some!
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First ice cream store in two weeks. Of course I’m having some!

I never did get consensus from the locals on how this town’s name is pronounced. One person claimed it was Beatty like the name “Betty”, another said it was like the word “bait” with an “e” tacked on. It was just a pit stop for me, so I didn’t keep asking.

A good, breezy day of riding! Making good progress across the state. As it got dark outside I caught up on work and ate snacks. Soon I would have to decide whether to head south into Death Valley, or try and detour around it for safety purposes.

LED candle-lit gears.
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LED candle-lit gears.

Camping in Mina

This was a comfortable and affordable motel, so I was a bit sad to leave it, but the road was calling.

Packed up and ready for the road again.
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Packed up and ready for the road again.

First it was time to ride around town and look for more snacks!

This building is for sale. If I wanted to open a bistro, I wouldn’t need to replace the sign!
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This building is for sale. If I wanted to open a bistro, I wouldn’t need to replace the sign!

Eventually I found this nifty burger joint.

Gotta hit the burger joint on the way out of town!
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Gotta hit the burger joint on the way out of town!

I’m detecting a theme here…
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I’m detecting a theme here…

After chomping two orders of deep fried fish – one salmon, one cod – I was feeling fortified. Just one more thing before leaving town: The Ordnance Museum!

It’s the Hawthrone Ordnance Museum! Gonna have to check this thing out!
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It’s the Hawthrone Ordnance Museum! Gonna have to check this thing out!

Lots of dangerous-looking but inert stuff sitting around here.
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Lots of dangerous-looking but inert stuff sitting around here.

Lots of America in here.
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Lots of America in here.

Lots of instruments and bomb parts here.
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Lots of instruments and bomb parts here.

Kablaaaam!
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Kablaaaam!

Fwoooosh! Bzzeeaarrrmm BANG!!
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Fwoooosh! Bzzeeaarrrmm BANG!!

Check out those nosecones!
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Check out those nosecones!

Vrrrrp… Clank! Whoooosshhhh…. BOOOOM!
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Vrrrrp… Clank! Whoooosshhhh…. BOOOOM!

Wild, weird stuff. Okay, now let’s get out of here.

Good thing I don’t need gas.
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Good thing I don’t need gas.

Apropos of the documentary I’ve been watching lately.
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Apropos of the documentary I’ve been watching lately.

The highway to the east brought me close to some of those weird bunkers.

A closer look at one of the countless ammo bunkers.
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A closer look at one of the countless ammo bunkers.

When those faded away, it was just open road, shared between me and the truckers. The sky decided there weren’t enough mountains around and decided to add a few — or maybe it was going for a giant winged serpent?

Cloud mountains.
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Cloud mountains.

A small anonymous road went bending away on the right, and I decided to follow it for a minute or two just to look around. It brought me to a tiny improvised graveyard.

An intriguing side road.
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An intriguing side road.

A touching roadside memorial.
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A touching roadside memorial.

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An adjacent memorial.
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An adjacent memorial.

Ready for more adventure!
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Ready for more adventure!

I thought about mortality and memory for a bit, then went pedaling down the road some more. I was leaving a region of clouds and cool air, and slowly entering a region of clear skies and heat.

Another fine cloudy day.
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Another fine cloudy day.

Lots of land.
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Lots of land.

Miles and miles ahead.
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Miles and miles ahead.

During a roadside pee break I spotted a lizard, and decided to chase after it, screaming “RUN LIZARD! TWO-LEGS IS AFTER YOU! RUN RUN RUN!” and cackling like a maniac. Eventually the lizard plunged into a burrow in some sagebrush, winning the race. I pouted, then looked up and realized I had gone about a hundred yards from the road. Tricky lizard, leading me away from all my supplies!

While walking back to the bike I found a neat rock, though:

Neat rocks!
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Neat rocks!

The day wore on. I listened to desert-y music and chatted with my workmates, doing some followup from yesterday. I threw in a few chapters from an audiobook about materials science called Liquid Rules. The wind, which had been blowing softly but directly against me for hours, decided to step it up a notch and slap me around.

Aww, I wish I had time to go see it…
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Aww, I wish I had time to go see it…

It’s a random 42!
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It’s a random 42!

I passed through the microscopic “town” of Luning. Google Maps promised me that the remaining miles were “mostly flat” but that turned out to be a lie.

Hey look! A spare bicycle!
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Hey look! A spare bicycle!

At long last I rolled into Mina — and kept on pedaling. The RV park I was due to camp at was on the opposite edge of the town. Up a hill of course.

MINA stands for Middle of Nowhere Absolutely.
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MINA stands for Middle of Nowhere Absolutely.

There was exactly one place in town that served food, and they were about to shut down the grill. I ordered a big basket of chicken strips and was quite happy with them even though they cost me almost as much as the campsite fee.

No horse play! No duck or pony play either!
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No horse play! No duck or pony play either!

It was the only thing available in town.
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It was the only thing available in town.

The bar patrons were all locals, and they asked the usual questions about where I started and where I was going. A friendly group. Above the jukebox was a four-foot banner reading “TRUMP 2020”. I sure ain’t on the west coast any more.

One of the patrons – a man with work boots, shoulder-length hair, and a big toothy grin — in fact, a kind of smaller landlocked-state version of Aquaman – said, “If you’re heading south, watch out for the highway construction. There was an earthquake a few weeks ago; tore up the highway. They set up a long detour.”

“Uh oh,” I said. “How long of a detour?”

I pulled out my phone and the man pointed to a section of highway about 30 miles south of the town. The detour was a big V-shape, using highway 360 and a chunk of highway 6. I poked a few buttons and realized it added 40 miles and several thousand more feet of climbing to the route, which was already a grueling 65 miles and 2400 feet. There were no services anywhere along it. If I had to take that detour, I would need to stealth-camp, and bring along an absurd amount of food and water.

“They might be already finished with the work, though,” said Nevada Aquaman. “Maybe you could find someone who’s been that way and ask.”

“Yeah,” I said. “I’m gonna have to do that. There’s no way I can take that detour on a bike.”

I finished my snacks and pedaled back to the RV park, thinking about my predicament. Should I just turn around tomorrow? Should I try to ride out to the construction and then ride back? I decided to sleep on it.

Starting to get dark around 9:00pm…
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2020-06-10_20-36-42_IMG_3492

Starting to get dark around 9:00pm…

Now all I needed to do was put together the tent. Good thing it’s easy in the dark. Hooray for the inflatable tent!

Time to turn this pile of stuff into a campsite.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50002528366/
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2020-06-10_20-53-54_IMG_3493

Time to turn this pile of stuff into a campsite.

Presto! I was a little rusty, so complete setup took half an hour.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50002527326/
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2020-06-10_21-26-55_IMG_3494

Presto! I was a little rusty, so complete setup took half an hour.

This was the first time I’d deployed the tent since Iceland, almost a year ago. It was just as cozy as I remembered.

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Laundry And Food And Code

Since I had an entire day here in Hawthorne, it was time to do some errands. First item on the list: Find some decent food.

All the snow from yesterday vanished overnight. I hope the plants managed to grab some moisture!
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All the snow from yesterday vanished overnight. I hope the plants managed to grab some moisture!

Outside it was cool and only a bit windy. Not what I was expecting for the middle of Nevada.

I made my way to the opposite side of town and drew some cash out of an ATM, then walked into the only real supermarket available: A giant Safeway.

Where I live, Safeway is outclassed by local stores. Here, it’s an oasis.
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Where I live, Safeway is outclassed by local stores. Here, it’s an oasis.

Fresh eggs, seafood, veggies, and guacamole… Pretty amazing, really! Over the next 24 hours, all this food got devoured. Plus, some ice cream:

I wanted just one ice cream bar, but they sold only in packs of six. Of the remaining five, the ice bucket preserved two of them, but ruined he other three. Oh well; they were 50 cents each.
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I wanted just one ice cream bar, but they sold only in packs of six. Of the remaining five, the ice bucket preserved two of them, but ruined he other three. Oh well; they were 50 cents each.

Laundry was up next, but there was a complication: I only had one pair of pants – my cycling sweatpants – and I was wearing them. It’s a small town, but I don’t quite have the guts to just wander about in my underwear while my pants spin in the washing machine. So I needed another pair.

I put “clothing” into Google Maps and got one hit: An army surplus store a few blocks from the motel. I had no idea what I would find there, but I cruised over anyway.

I knocked on the door and a large man with a walking stick opened it.

Me:
“Hello there! This is gonna sound really dumb. I’m on a bike tour and I need to do laundry, but I’ve only got these sweatpants. Do you have something like a cheap pair of shorts I could buy?”
Him:
“Shorts? I don’t think we have any shorts here. But we do have some pants. Check that shelf over there.”
Me:
“Huh. These are all pretty overbuilt for my needs.”
Him:
“Well, yeah. Army. You just need a pair of shorts? You can go to the Family Dollar across town. They have a few things.”
Me:
“Family Dollar? Alright. I didn’t even know that store existed. Does that mean they’re gonna sell me shorts for a dollar? They must be made out of paper or something.”
Him:
“Oh, that name isn’t accurate. They’ll probably cost twelve dollars.”
Me:
“Twelve Family Dollars, right?”
Him:
“Most expensive kind of dollars.”

We had a good laugh and then I went across town again, feeling like a moron. There on the shelf were some ugly black cotton shorts, for 13 dollars. Only one size was even close to mine: 34 inches. I bought them, thinking I would just suck in my stomach while the laundry ran.

Next stop: Laundromat.

Time to wash my 1 pair of pants.
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Time to wash my 1 pair of pants.

I fed one of my 20 dollar bills to the change machine and it pooped a small mountain of quarters. Bought some crusty little boxes of detergent, and then locked myself in the bathroom to change into those shorts. They were like a new-fangled hotel: No ballroom. I minced around the building, sticking my filthy greasy sweats into one machine and the rest of my laundry in another, then walked outside and laid myself nearly sideways on one of the picnic tables to wait. After a few seconds I unbuttoned the shorts and took the zipper partway down, then used my shirt as cover. Now I could breathe. 34 inch waist? Hah! I must be up to 38 or 40 now. How depressing.

I practiced my Russian on the phone, then paid a few bills. When the washers stopped I switched immediately back to the sweatpants – I couldn’t wait a minute longer – and threw the rest of the clothes in a dryer. The air outside would take care of the sweats. Rolling them around in a dryer would just bake the remaining grease further in.

I decided to fill out some time by adding air to my tires, and greasing my bike chain. I nabbed some toilet paper from the bathroom and tried to wipe off some grease, but the fibers got pulled into the chain. I was about to give up when a woman walked out of the laundromat with a basket.

Woman:
“Would you like some paper towels to degrease your chain?”
Me:
“If you have some handy, yeah that would be great!”
Woman:
“I always keep some in my trunk for workin’ on cars. … Here you go.”
Me:
“Thanks a lot!”
Woman:
“Yeah, I’m always workin’ on my cars. I got a truck back at the house; got a leaky spark plug. I’m always cleanin’ something off, you know?”
Me:
“Oh, I know exactly what you mean. Thanks again!”

I rode back to the motel and settled in to do some work. Two loads of laundry cost me about five bucks. That left me with $15 in quarters, and there’s no reason to carry that weight to the next town. Better spend it on snacks.

Way too many leftover laundry quarters. Time to buy some road snacks!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50002041443_034fc408ff_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/50002041443/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50002041443_034fc408ff_s.jpg
2020-06-08_16-44-08_IMG_3447

Way too many leftover laundry quarters. Time to buy some road snacks!

I hauled the quarters to the gas station and bought two candy bars and an ice cream sandwich which melted almost completely between the station and the motel room. I’ve been having bad luck with ice cream. Maybe I’ll just stop buying it…

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The Train To Reno

As usual before a big trip, I didn’t sleep well. Too excited.

Setting out in the morning. The shades are concealing some very tired eyeballs!

I had a few extra minutes before I needed to hit the train station, so I got a donut and a mocha, to supplement the big chunks of bread I’d pilfered from the kitchen on the way out. The previous night I’d been watching the South Park episode “All About Mormons” while trying to repair my camping light, and the song was now bouncing all over my sleep-deprived brain. I couldn’t remember the lyrics though. As I rode to the train station I sang:

Joseph Smith he was a Mormon
      Dum dum dum dum dummm
Farty-pantsy pantsy-farty
      Dum dum dum dum dummm

Transporting a bicycle on the train is so much easier than transporting one by air, it’s almost disorienting. You just get a luggage tag for it like any other piece of luggage, and make sure you’re early in line to load the bike on the train so the attendant has time to prepare.

Just tag the bike, remove the bags, and hand it up to the luggage car. Amazingly easy.

Take your bags off and carry them with you, or check them too if you like. That’s it. No box and no disassembly required. (I assume this is because the train service is terribly under-utilized right now due to COVID-19, because the regulations state that you need some kind of bike carrier box. I asked the clerk about it the day before and he said a box would not be needed.)

Writing code as we move across the land.

Now you can see how tired I am!

I’d purchased a little private room, because I wanted a safe place to stick five big chunks of luggage, and some relative isolation from the other passengers. It wasn’t much more expensive than a regular ticket, and the table was helpful for getting work done.

All I had to do was sit, and the landscape slowly transformed outside the window until I was in Reno:

The ride was quite pleasant, though there was a dark spot. I could overhear someone playing a talk show on their phone with the volume turned way up. The little speaker carried right through the wall. It was some obviously right-wing pundit screaming at the top of his lungs, about how Democrats are ruining the country because they’re saying there’s systemic racism.

“What systemic racism?” screamed the pundit. “The officer who killed George Floyd was arrested and charged with murder! The system obviously works! What are these people complaining about?”

What? That didn’t make sense. The pundit was either deliberately not mentioning, or just plain ignorant, that all the repercussions for Floyd’s death have come about because the four police officers who pinned him down were recorded by onlookers, who then raised hell. No recording, no uproar. One of the officers even tried to prevent the recording, by ordering the onlookers to stop, then brandishing pepper spray.

This is all aside from the fact that Floyd was being arrested on suspicion of using a counterfeit bill at a nearby market. That’s not even a violent crime; not even close. If I write a bad check, I get a 35 dollar fine. George Floyd was strangled slowly to death face-down in a public street by the police for the equivalent.

This information is everywhere online and trivial to verify. And yet, I’m hearing this talk show pundit have a full-scale 100-meter freestyle whimpering hissy-fit, which goes on for half an hour, based on an ignorance of the facts that it would have taken him 30 seconds on a smartphone to dispel. How could it be anything but deliberate?

“The Democrats want these protests to happen! They want the looting to happen! They don’t care if the whole police force gets defunded and the country sinks into anarchy, they just want Republicans to die. This is a war on white middle class people and it’s based on lies!”

Deliberate construction of an enemy, blaming it for every problem, stoking fear and impotent rage. What people are drawn to this? Why do they take it in? What do they get for spending hours absorbing it?

These are the times we live in. Honestly, I’d feel much better if the passenger on the other side of the wall was just watching porn.

I put in my headphones and ignored the voice. Then the ride was great again. I only left the compartment twice to use the bathroom, and wore my mask and washed my hands thoroughly each time. Getting sick is no way to start a bike trip!

I could tell when I was getting close to Reno because the number of hidden homeless camps sharply increased.

Homeless huts tucked in along the railroad are a thing in Reno too. The only difference between these and the ones in Oakland is the occupant is more likely to be addicted to meth than to crack.

At the Reno station, I marched out to the platform with my bags. The man at the luggage car already had my bike at the doorway, and he handed it down to me. And just like that, I was in Reno with all my gear! Why do I travel on airplanes…?

Bike off the train; bags off the train. All in less than three minutes. So much better than flying.

Outside the air was fresh and it was only 88 degrees. I rode around a bit to orient myself.

Big sky in Reno!
All bundled up to ride around the town.
More big sky.
Got to photograph the silly arch!
Local protestors. Not very many of them, but they're out and about.
A whale of a sculpture!

The main drag was a forest of construction cones. Looks like the city is jumping on the chance to get a lot of work done while people are away.

Lots of construction happening on the main drag in Reno, taking advantage of the light traffic from COVID-19 and curfews.

I rode southeast for a little while and checked into a sorta-sketchy hotel near a mexican restaurant, then got some to-go food and munched it while watching a documentary on the Vietnam War. It seemed appropriate for the times.

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First day of riding tomorrow! Big day!

A day off to wrap up

The sound of people and cars outside in the street was unfamiliar after so many days in the wilderness. I woke up early, took an awkward rinse in the weird, fragile-looking shower, and packed my gear onto the bike in touring configuration for the last time. Tomorrow I would be rearranging things for travel on the ferry boat: I’d separate my sleeping gear and laptop into a backpack, and the rest would be stowed on the bicycle in a locked cargo area with a bunch of parked cars.

Loading everything up in touring mode one final time.
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Loading everything up in touring mode one final time.

I rode around town for a while, enjoying the fact that I had no destination or budget of miles to ride today.

Welcome to Seydisfjordur. No fishing on the bridge!
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Welcome to Seydisfjordur. No fishing on the bridge!

Eventually I settled in a restaurant next to the one I’d visited the other night. A cycle tourist was there, all fresh-looking and clean because he had just rolled off the ferry boat and was preparing to head East, retracing my steps.

Justin is heading out on the Iceland portion of his seven-month tour. Go go go!
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Justin is heading out on the Iceland portion of his seven-month tour. Go go go!

Justin is built for speed, and his gear weighs about half mine. He’ll rocket up that scary mountainside and arrive in Egilsstaðer before dinner! I’m glad I got some touring done in my early 30’s so I could experience it when I still had that level of energy. Now I’m slow and cautious and thoughtful. And I like fish and chips way more than I should!

With some time to spare, I answered some thoughtful questions from friends and family.

Question:
How do you feel now that the Iceland crossing is done?
Answer:
I’m feeling proud, accomplished, validated, and more than a little surprised.

Proud and accomplished because of the miles I’ve covered, and the fact that I did it as I intended:  Without any bus, train, or other wheeled transport, in an unbroken line, with the exception of the boat rides.

Validated, and definitely surprised, because the equipment and the bike worked so well.  I was over-prepared, and sent some cooking equipment and electronic toys home midway through, but I never felt like I was lacking for a piece of gear.

For example, the combination of waterproof socks, gore-tex pants and jacket, rain hat, wool sweater, wool cap, sweats, hiking socks, and sandals let me add layers one at a time as the day got colder, all the way up to the coldest day I experienced. More than once I remember being confused by the sensations I was feeling, because I was standing next to the bike while 30+ mile-per-hour wind was slapping freezing rain into my body, and I felt perfectly warm and dry.

I’m also feeling a strange ambivalence about returning to the US, and getting back to work.  I like my job: The people are fantastic and the work is challenging. But on the other hand, I’ve validated this set of hardware, and I’m way closer to “touring shape” than I was when I started, and I feel like I’ve only barely begun to see all the amazing things out in the world through this mode of transport.  The trip feels just long enough – or perhaps almost long enough – to complete a transformation, from my rooted self to my compact and traveling adventure self.  And now that transformation will have to run in reverse. That’s a bit disappointing.

Still, there are creature comforts I miss about Oakland.  The weather.  The easy access to amazing food of almost every kind, with multiple options of each.  The cornucopia of cultural experiences, always renewing and changing.  The high concentration of computer geeks.  I can set up a chair in the park and read, and watch the sun creep down the cool granite of the monuments.  I can unfold the laptop in a coffee shop — one of a rotating list of lovely places to think and write, where the staff know me by name.

I can hold my cat.

There are things I am definitely going to miss, and eventually pine for, about touring as well.  The fact that I can get aerobic exercise for hours every day in an ever-changing and sometimes challenging and breathtaking environment.  The direct exposure to smells and fresh wind and weather and living things.  The excited discussions with fellow travelers.  The firehose onslaught of new thoughts, triggered by random things on the road, in endless combination.

And probably most of all, how sometimes during the day – and almost always during the night – I can stop the bike at any random time, and there I am: Outside, in a quiet open space in the middle of nowhere.

So yeah, it’s complicated. But for now, in the careful balance of things, home is my destination of choice.

Question:
Do you feel like you’ve had enough time in Iceland?
Answer:
Part of me will never feel like I’ve had enough time in Iceland. I can imagine myself living an entire life in Iceland, roaming over the hills, and resting among my fellow quiet introverts.

There’s always less time than we want for journeys like this. It would have been amazing to cross the center of Iceland like I was planning, but I’d need another month to do it right. I could have easily dropped another two weeks into the terrain I covered in the last 4 days, and still not felt like it was enough — like I was slowing down enough. Actually, what would it take, to go slow enough? Would I have to abandon the bike and walk? How about if I crawled across the landscape, inspecting each rock in detail, and pausing every five minutes to meditate and listen to the wind? I could cross Iceland that way in a mere five years. Would that be slow enough? Bah.

I looked back over my GPS recordings and recreated something close to the equivalent with Google Maps:

The route I ended up riding, after making some on-the-fly changes.
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The route I ended up riding, after making some on-the-fly changes.

750 miles is a pretty epic ride, especially with so many hills. I can be happy with that.

I sorted photos and made notes, and ate an early dinner in the pub. Then I went tootling around on my bike for a while.

This quaint rainbow road leads from the main restaurant in town to the door of the church.

I'm going to assume without checking that this sculpture is the same shape as the fjord seen from above.

Is this a punk band? Name like that, it should be.

Whatever’s in here, it’s bound to be wacky.
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Whatever’s in here, it’s bound to be wacky.

After that I went to the hostel, where I would be spending my final night on Icelandic shores. While I was checking in, a kitty colonized my bike.

Apparently someone has taken my seat.
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Apparently someone has taken my seat.

Way too cute to move.
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Way too cute to move.

I shall name her Brunhilde!
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I shall name her Brunhilde!

The welcoming committee outside the hostel.
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The welcoming committee outside the hostel.

After hanging out with the fuzzy welcoming committee for a while longer, I went browsing around the building. It had a huge kitchen with a dozen people mingling in it. Several meals were in progress on the stove and countertop. I sat down for a while and checked in with work, enjoying the indirect presence of people and the indirect sunlight.

The Lagarfljót wyrm!!
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The Lagarfljót wyrm!!

The first floor of the hostel. Does it seem like a converted hospital? That’s because it is.
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The first floor of the hostel. Does it seem like a converted hospital? That’s because it is.

Old stairs, typically narrow.
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Old stairs, typically narrow.

In spite of all my traveling, I’d never stayed in a hostel before. This would be my first experience with one. As I scoped out the rooms I felt like the lack of privacy was going to make me nervous. How could I protect all my gear? But then I remembered: I’m in Iceland. A local stealing so much as a candy bar would probably feel so ashamed that she’d return and leave some money where she took it from.

Upstairs in the hostel.
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Upstairs in the hostel.

I picked the bed by the open window. With my earplugs and sleep mask it was comfortable.
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I picked the bed by the open window. With my earplugs and sleep mask it was comfortable.

Standing around in the room, looking at all the beds, the fact that I was in a way-station for tourists returned to me, and I decided to use a little more caution. The clerk at the desk downstairs told me about a janitorial closet down in the basement that was nicely concealed, so I stripped all my bags off my bike and stacked them down there before setting up my bed.

The Icelandic sunlight hours were still very long. The other people in the room were probably glad that I’d taken the bed by the window, but I had earplugs and a sleep mask. I applied them and slowly drifted off. The final night in this country would pass without fanfare, and that was fine.