Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 3 : Curiosity

I’m back at Forth Klamath, in the field behind the organic food store that I’d scouted out days before. The store owners charge five bucks to camp back here, and the sites are in good shape, with clear numbering, flat spaces for tents, and a collection of stout picnic tables on a gentle hill overlooking a pleasant brook that slithers between the farmhouses and fenced fields, joining with smaller streams here and there. I suspect the river itself is being used as a property line.

I’ve set up my tent in a hollow beneath some leaning trees, framed by knee-high grass, and am sequestered inside, napping on my roll-out mattress. It is quiet except for the sounds of the wind. Down here on the ground, the wind is strong enough that I had to stake the tent down, using sticks pressed down into the thick soil. Up in the sky, the wind is gigantic.

For the rest of the afternoon I drift around on the edge of sleep, listening as the wind pounds the clouds across the sky, and churns the grass around in the field, making coils and spiral patterns. Swishhh… Boom, boom. Swishhh… It is a strange feeling, having a body tired from bicycling but a mind fully rested, being dragged down into sleep by fatigue. Even stranger is the knowledge that I have no plans at all, for an indeterminate time; no appointments to keep, errands to run, or household to maintain. Everything I would do is wrapped up in physical possessions that are hundreds of miles away. I’ve had at least one item on my to-do list for so long that to have the list completely blank feels somehow … inhuman.

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I eventually get up and take a few photos of the field, playing with the camera to pass the time, then retreat back inside and listen to an old Terry Practhett novel. The wind hurls a few drops of rain down onto my tent, and continues to tear apart the clouds until night falls, leaving only the gigantic sound.

Boom… Booom… Whusshhhhhhh… Boom…

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Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 3 : Amusement

On my way back towards the Organic Market and Campground in Fort Klamath, I pass through the floor of the valley again, with its huge squares of flat ranch land. This time I zig instead of zagging, so I can see some different stuff along the way. Ahead of me almost half a mile, I see a large truck lumbering down the road.

About a quarter mile distant, the truck stops, and a rancher gets out. He walks across the road and begins to open a gate, except I can see he’s doing it awkwardly because he’s got one hand pressed to his head. He’s talking on a cellphone.

By the time I roll past, he’s got the gate open and has turned around. To my great amusement, I observe that his phone is a second-generation black iPhone, same as mine. I wonder what apps he’s got on it.

Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 3 : Extra Photos

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Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 2 : Discomfort

The kayak ride is fantastic, but after eight hours in the sun, and after ten hours from the previous day, my exposed hands have been burned red. I can tell from the dull throb that the damage is pretty severe. Thank goodness for the long-sleeved shirts and the hat.

Sunburns always exhaust me. Perhaps it’s just a correlation, between the hard work I usually do when I’m out in the sun, and the sun’s burning effect. But one way or the other it sucks. After I return my kayak, I wolf down some restaurant food and creep into my tent before the clock has even reached 8:00pm.

Crater Lake To Stanley, Day 2 : Extra Photos

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