Limping to civilization

By the time I had the bike loaded again, the Italians were just starting to wake up and populate the kitchen. I headed for the restaurant from yesterday and chomped an open-faced sandwich.

Tasty somewhat traditional breakfast at the museum.
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Tasty somewhat traditional breakfast at the museum.

I had 40 miles (65km or so) of cycling before I reached Höfn, the destination of my replacement tire. I’d be rolling along at about half the usual pressure and making frequent stops, so 40 miles would take the whole day.

With Skyrim filling my headphones and a gentle wind moving me along, my worries about the tire faded into the background. At the eight mile mark I saw a fenced pasture on my right, and held up the phone in time to catch this:

Horses seem to like the recumbent!

That made my entire day. Now, even if the tire got shredded and I had to push the bike for miles I’d still say this was a great day.

Reindeer were imported into Iceland as an experiment over 200 years ago.
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Reindeer were imported into Iceland as an experiment over 200 years ago.

Apparently one of the touristy things to see in East Iceland is reindeer. They roam around a bit and you may even see one on the road.

Go bikers go!
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Go bikers go!

You’ll also see cyclists! I passed more than usual today. Everyone grinned and waved. We know how cool we are…

More cyclists! Go go go!
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More cyclists! Go go go!

I listened to lots of Warlock Holmes and obsessively checked the tire. As an older person, I stop frequently for the sake of my bladder, so to say I stopped even more than usual is a pretty big deal.

Clouds cutting the top off the ridges.
Little ridge, big ridge.
I absolutely 100% guarantee this telephone pole arrived on a ship.
Very few cars today; just the way I like it.
It's a monument to ... Something. I didn't read the kiosk.

I made good time but had no snacks to eat. The leftovers from the restaurant had vanished immediately. With food on my mind, I wondered, just what does a symbol of “egg in a cup” mean on those roadside displays? Something different than all the other symbols for food? The “breakfast” part of “bed and breakfast” maybe?

Okay, so… Egg in a cup… How is that different from all the other food icons?
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Okay, so… Egg in a cup… How is that different from all the other food icons?

I passed by some other puzzling things. A giant pipe going up to a lake. Bringing water down, or moving it up? A huge enclosed facility, perhaps for sporting events. Some very clever sheep.

A long pipe, fetching water from the lake over the ridge.
Some giant indoor facility here. Probably for sporting events.
Sheep in a heap!
Glacier in the mist.
My destination town in the distance.

In the late afternoon I noticed that the tire was leaking air about twice as fast. I had one more patch in my toolkit – found while rummaging around the previous night – but didn’t want to use it because then I’d have none for the replacement tire.

The problem was, if I took the tube out and patched it now, it would get damaged somewhere else after I put it back inside the wrecked tire, because it would be lined up differently. Better to wait, if possible…

Was that sign added by a Russian speaker?
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Was that sign added by a Russian speaker?

Right, so, this sign has “knife and fork” as well as “pot on a hook”. How do these compare with “egg in a cup”? The hungry mind boggles!

A cool causeway! Luckily cars were sparse, because the road was quite narrow.
An inspiring view to pedal towards.
Roiling cloud piling up around a hill.
I'm pretty sure this sign is announcing police cameras.
A cement house seems like a great idea right up until a massive crack appears in one wall and you start wondering if you'll wake up one morning under a pile of rubble...
A neat sculpture on the coast.

The road went on. I passed over a rough bridge spanning Hornafjörður and turned southeast, into the wind. The road got a bit lumpy, making a late effort to sabotage my tire.

The panorama to the north.
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The panorama to the north.

Just as my Warlock Holmes book ended, I rolled into Höfn. At the far end of town I located my rental, booked on short notice the previous day when it looked like I might actually get here.

Mom

Yes! You made it!  

Me

Yup! Sore legs though!

Mom

What is your hotel like?

Me

It’s an AirBnB. The room is small but comfortable enough. Just set up the laptop!

Mom

A few days of enforced rest will be good for the old leggers. Decent food nearby?

Me

Just ate fish and chips, and a burger with an egg on it!

Mom

That should do it!

I was hoping to spend the additional waiting days in the local campground to save money, but I’d been unable to book there in advance. The idea of just plopping down my tent so late in the day, only to be shouted awake in the morning, did not appeal to me. I’ve learned that campgrounds in densely populated areas are run a bit more strictly than the ones in the hinterlands, even in Iceland.

That was a problem for “tomorrow me”. For tonight, my job was to shower and creep into the bed.

Brought the bike in for the night. Cozy!
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Brought the bike in for the night. Cozy!

My little LED candle really is awesome.
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My little LED candle really is awesome.

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