To London and beyond

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I hope their shipping is fast. American burgers don’t have a long shelf life.
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I hope their shipping is fast. American burgers don’t have a long shelf life.

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Andrew parked the bike near the Rochester Cathedral War Memorial, and set about repairing the headlight mount.

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Nick decided to walk around, then listen to music for a while, enjoying the fresh air.

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Since Rochester Cathedral was close at hand, I went exploring.

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The place was a feast of texture and color. At some point I assume I’ll get tired of wandering around these. It hasn’t happened yet.

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Exploring the cathedral took up the rest of our time in Rochester, and we boarded the train for the relatively short hop to London. It would have been great to stay on the official Eurovelo route into the city, but it would have cost another two days we didn’t have.

Emerging into London was exciting. Andrew and I had been here before, but Nick hadn’t. He was trying to look everywhere at once and we nearly lost him in crowds a few times. I asked him how it compared to emerging from the train station in Paris, and he said, “not as scary.”

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BOLOGNA BY NIGHT. Except, this is England, not Italy, so …
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BOLOGNA BY NIGHT. Except, this is England, not Italy, so …

Big Ben looks a lot shinier than the last time I saw it.
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Big Ben looks a lot shinier than the last time I saw it.

Chillin’ in London.
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Chillin’ in London.

While we lounged in Parliament Square Garden we saw a crowd of modern penny-farthing riders, standing around in a big group getting photos from other tourists. They were all embarked on a cross-Europe tour, and made much better time than we did. … Not because of the bike design, but because a fellow with a very large van was carrying all their luggage ahead of them.

Still, from one rider of weird bikes to another, me and Nick and the various French and English riders gave each other a lot of curious looks and stoic manly nods.

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Super old-timey, all the way down to the dental work!
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Super old-timey, all the way down to the dental work!

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Three cyclists, three weird bikes.
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Three cyclists, three weird bikes.

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Chillin’ on the saddle.
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Chillin’ on the saddle.

We shall fight them on the beaches… We shall wipe their craps off our heads…
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We shall fight them on the beaches… We shall wipe their craps off our heads…

Andrew only had a few more days in the country, and we needed to decide between exploring London or Edinburgh with his remaining time. We could potentially get a room here, then head to Edinburgh in a few days…

A consultation with the ticket office made the decision for us. They had three spots for bicycles on the train leaving today, but it would be almost impossible to get them when the weekend started, partly due to crowding, and partly due to the train strike that was still ongoing.

The Edinburgh train is what we want, but … which track??
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The Edinburgh train is what we want, but … which track??

The departure time was vague. The office couldn’t tell us what platform to wait on, either. So we sat around reading phones in the station, which was a bit of a waste of international vacation time.

Waiting, and waiting, for the track announcement.
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Waiting, and waiting, for the track announcement.

On the other hand, this travel was already so seat-of-the-pants that it was a miracle things worked out as well as they did.

Don’t board any train without your emergency snacks.
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Don’t board any train without your emergency snacks.

The ride would take the rest of the day, so we organized luggage and sorted photos. Nick decided on a new favorite “road food”.

I chatted with a local about the Scotland route, and he insisted we try to reach the Isle of Skye. I chatted with Rachel and we looked at narrowing the schedule we’d booked for the Outer Hebrides so we could get a few days there. We found a very useful site that helped us rebuild our itinerary.

Making sure the gear is all here.
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Making sure the gear is all here.

Unloading was a lot less stressful than loading, because the train was being decommissioned for the night. By the time we had everything roped back onto the bikes we were alone on the platform.

Dang, that was a long ride. But we made it!
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Dang, that was a long ride. But we made it!

This is what the train cars actually say when they’re idle.
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This is what the train cars actually say when they’re idle.

Now all we had to do was cruise out of Edinburgh to the west, where the first hotel room was.

Eerie English countryside

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Dawn broke cold and damp, but we were expecting that. We all awoke around the same time and packed our gear in a steady drizzle. There was some mud to wash off from the late riding the previous night.

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As we rolled out of the campground we encountered the manager, and he charged us a very reasonable fee for the space and water. We got to chatting and he couldn’t help showing us the amazing car project he had brewing in the garage.

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Andrew

“These were the car to have here, for a minute! High performance for the price! One of the first cars that someone who was not snooty and rich could afford.”

Rachel

(via text) “Yes! The period murder mysteries I devour have lots of lady motorists in Morrises.”

Me

“Most charming!”

Rachel

“Although of course the honorable miss Phryne Fisher went for the Hispano-Suiza — temperamental, but my what lines!”

Today’s first destination: Tiny local restaurant for snacks, while we planned the route ahead!

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We were really digging these English breakfasts.

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Back outside we reconfigured our rain gear. The weather service claimed the rain would stop, but the wind would remain stiff until we moved away from the coast a little.

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I had to do a panorama of Nick being wind-proof.

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The word for the next four hours was “bucolic.” The countryside put on a full performance for us, including sunshine, rabbits, birds, pretty clouds, rustling leaves, farm animals…

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In the late afternoon, following the sneaky touring path between two fields, I came across a weird-looking tree creature. I had to stand there and gaze at it for a while, because the “Xenis Emputae Travelling Band” began playing on my phone, with the song “Littlebeck Trisagion: I – Elicona“. And oh my goodness, the “creepy nature spirit” factor of the thing just went right up into the heavens.

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It was a great surreal moment and I was rooted almost helplessly to the spot while the song unrolled. Every 20 seconds or so a rabbit would go dashing in or out of the foliage at the base of the tree.

A few minutes later I rolled on and discovered a hillside that appeared to be bleeding trash. It looks like this disused area was a landfill for a good while. No wonder the tree spirit was so foreboding.

A little later I had to ask a question of The Duck:

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Luckily Andrew was around to provide an answer!

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Shortly after taking this video, I saw a fox leap across the path and vanish into the greenery. Too quick to nab a photo!

As I was lamenting my slow reaction speed, two smaller foxes scrambled across in the same place, vanishing just as quickly.

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The light shifted as the day moved on, but the countryside was just as stunning.

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Nick and Andrew were a good ways ahead of me, partly because I had to stop for a while and get work done, and partly because I had to stop a bunch of times to take photos, gaze at things, and pee in bushes like I always do. They had already found food on the road ahead, so as night fell I stopped at a take-out shop and bought some Chinese food.

A nice place to sit down and have dinner.
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A nice place to sit down and have dinner.

I set out my chair in a little park next to the road, and as the gloom gathered around me I logged on for what was supposed to be a mid-morning status meeting on West Coast time. The other participants were a bit shocked to see I was sitting in the dark.

Yes! There is some of that here!!
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Yes! There is some of that here!!

Yes, this is a church converted into a gym.
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Yes, this is a church converted into a gym.

If you’re wondering what that serious looking wall is about, it’s around the Brompton Barracks!

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When I rejoined the rest of the group in town, it was pretty dang late. We had gone a good ways from Canterbury, but not quite far enough to stay on schedule. Reluctantly I decided that we’d better take a train out of town the next day, so we could spend at least a little bit of time in London before shooting north to Edinburgh on another train.

The Cathedral And The Coast

Time to have coffee with some cats!
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Time to have coffee with some cats!

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I was immediately colonized by a sphynx.
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2023-06-28-110008-IMG_8415

I was immediately colonized by a sphynx.

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Two snappy dudes!
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Two snappy dudes!

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2023-06-28-131442-2023-06-28_13-14-42-23_02-00_3I2A1358
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2023-06-28-131624-2023-06-28_13-16-24-38_02-00_3I2A1362
Needless to say, history has reassessed the deeds immortalized in such monuments…
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2023-06-28-131717-2023-06-28_13-17-17-61_02-00_3I2A1363

Needless to say, history has reassessed the deeds immortalized in such monuments…

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2023-06-28-123337-IMG_8435
Serious bizness with my 85 and my 35 all holstered and whatnot!
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2023-06-28-130514-2023-06-28_13-05-14-47_02-00_3I2A1350

Serious bizness with my 85 and my 35 all holstered and whatnot!

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Ceiling badges!
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Ceiling badges!

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2023-06-28-132039-2023-06-28_13-20-39-92_02-00_3I2A1372
Something just slightly off about this cherub. Maybe it’s the pupils.
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2023-06-28-132725-2023-06-28_13-27-25-88_02-00_3I2A1397

Something just slightly off about this cherub. Maybe it’s the pupils.

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2023-06-28-132405-2023-06-28_13-24-05-78_02-00_3I2A1386
This cathedral is gonna set sail any minute!
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2023-06-28-132410-2023-06-28_13-24-10-23_02-00_3I2A1387

This cathedral is gonna set sail any minute!

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2023-06-28-132609-2023-06-28_13-26-09-84_02-00_3I2A1392
Why does every skull have angry brows? Some comment on the afterlife??
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2023-06-28-132618-2023-06-28_13-26-18-09_02-00_3I2A1393

Why does every skull have angry brows? Some comment on the afterlife??

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112485888_518a5c90ce_b.jpg
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2023-06-28-132307-2023-06-28_13-23-07-50_02-00_3I2A1380
Ceiling artwork that’s at least 450 years old.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112397985_2108890a92_b.jpg
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2023-06-28-132957-2023-06-28_13-29-57-08_02-00_3I2A1403

Ceiling artwork that’s at least 450 years old.

I started taking pictures down here before I saw the “no pictures” sign. Oops…
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111980646/
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2023-06-28-133005-2023-06-28_13-30-05-54_02-00_3I2A1404

I started taking pictures down here before I saw the “no pictures” sign. Oops…

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WHAT.
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2023-06-28-134552-2023-06-28_13-45-52-55_02-00_3I2A1438

WHAT.

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2023-06-28-134327-2023-06-28_13-43-27-71_02-00_3I2A1429
This is a super-awesome and surprisingly creepy piece of art that I did not expect to see in a world-famous cathedral.
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2023-06-28-134809-2023-06-28_13-48-09-89_02-00_3I2A1440

This is a super-awesome and surprisingly creepy piece of art that I did not expect to see in a world-famous cathedral.

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2023-06-28-143053-2023-06-28_14-30-53-67_02-00_3I2A1452
It’s what it’s all about.
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It’s what it’s all about.

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A truly excellent serving of fish and chips.
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A truly excellent serving of fish and chips.

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Gotta catch up on work wherever you can…
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Gotta catch up on work wherever you can…

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Gettin’ Stuff Done

Tiny room, massive luggage.
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Tiny room, massive luggage.

Time to fix a flat…
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Time to fix a flat…

Huddling the bikes near the breakfast table, like usual.
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Huddling the bikes near the breakfast table, like usual.

I am always in the mood for a Monty Python reference.
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I am always in the mood for a Monty Python reference.

What an adorable little park!
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What an adorable little park!

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A Day At Church

Today needed to be a workday, but I didn’t mind at all because there was an amazing setting for it: St. Martin’s Church. It wasn’t that far outside of town, so I rolled over after breakfast.

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I spent some time wandering the churchyard in the warm late-morning sunlight, then placed my folding chair at the base of this amazing wall.

Such cool stones. This one was staring at me.
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Such cool stones. This one was staring at me.

The wall looks like thousands of giant busted candies. Mmm…
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The wall looks like thousands of giant busted candies. Mmm…

Nice place to do some work! The dead are fine company.
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Nice place to do some work! The dead are fine company.

Every cemetery needs at least one prowly cat!
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Every cemetery needs at least one prowly cat!

Part of the Rome-Canterbury trail, apparently.
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Part of the Rome-Canterbury trail, apparently.

Look at all them classic ‘pods!
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Look at all them classic ‘pods!

I had fish and chips at a new place for dinner, and now I’m pretty sure I’ve re-absorbed all the calories I burned yesterday. Hah!