Australia and Tasmania: Night Market

This is the Melbourne Night Market. The primary attractions are greasy food and clever t-shirts.
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This is the Melbourne Night Market. The primary attractions are greasy food and clever t-shirts.

This is the Melbourne Night Market. At first glance, one could assume that the primary attractions are greasy food and clever t-shirts.

Nice to see gangs of motorbike riders on this side of the Earth too. They look a bit cleaner and nicer than their American counterparts.
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Nice to see gangs of motorbike riders on this side of the Earth too. They look a bit cleaner and nicer than their American counterparts.

Nice to see gangs of motorbike riders on this side of the Earth too. They look a bit cleaner and friendlier than their American counterparts.

Check out those huge boxes of vegetable oil. Make way for greasy food!
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Check out those huge boxes of vegetable oil. Make way for greasy food!

Check out those huge boxes of vegetable oil. Make way for greasy food!

… And clever t-shirts!
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… And clever t-shirts!

… And clever t-shirts!

My mission, as given to me by the locals, was to attend the Night Market and procure a sausage-inna-bun. At first I thought I was out of luck…
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My mission, as given to me by the locals, was to attend the Night Market and procure a sausage-inna-bun. At first I thought I was out of luck…

My mission, as given to me by the locals, was to attend the Night Market and procure a sausage-inna-bun. At first I thought I was out of luck…

… But then I found a booth with plenty for sale.
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… But then I found a booth with plenty for sale.

… But then I found a booth with plenty for sale.

Sitting on the ground chomping food is apparently a Night Market tradition.
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Sitting on the ground chomping food is apparently a Night Market tradition.

Sitting around on the ground chomping food is apparently a Night Market tradition. Can do!!

The evening’s entertainment was a klezmer/gypsy band hailing from Russia.
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The evening’s entertainment was a klezmer/gypsy band hailing from Russia.

The evening’s entertainment was a klezmer/gypsy band hailing from Russia. Hey look; more redheads!

… Accompanied by a wedding dance.
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… Accompanied by a wedding dance.

The performance included a traditional wedding dance.

It was a fun way to spend an evening, and it got me thinking about all the things that I would insist a foreign visitor go see if they were staying in Oakland. One of the local farmer’s markets? A ride in Bike Party? A walk around Lake Merritt? The botanical gardens? These are all things that I enjoy as a local, and in that way they constitute both local color, and a good time in general.

But then I thought about what happens when I go traveling: Often there are small, surprising experiences that affect me in ways no one could predict. A local might direct me to an event like the Night Market, knowing I could enjoy things as they do, but what about my own biases and history?

When I visited New York I was told, “You’ve got to see something on stage here. It’s a classic and unique New York experience.” With help from my sister and our hosts, I got to see Les Miserables live on stage, and I enjoyed that for sure. But one of the most insightful experiences I had there was when I got up in the morning seeking breakfast, and walked in the deep shadow of the towering buildings for less than half a block before I ran into sidewalk deli that was crammed so full of produce and candy and drinks and papers that there was hardly room to breathe inside, and a guy in a suit was having an animated conversation in Italian with the guy behind the counter.

That little experience gave me a sense of uniqueness of place, and of history, and of my own limitations, all at once, and I remember it just as clearly as I remember anything about my time in New York.

As a local, well-established in your own environment, what are the experiences that you can recommend for visitors that are not just a good time, not just impressive or unique, but are truly insightful? Experiences that might lead a visitor to some new personal understanding?

Tough question!

Australia and Tasmania: Hanging Rock

Today, Celia gave me a ride up to Woodend, since she was headed that way anyway to help her friends Brad and Jane work on their new house. My first stop was at a local bakery, where I bought a "lemon slice" and a sandwich. Further up the street I found a fish and chips shop, and decided to sample their food. It was pretty bad. All the items were pre-fried, and lacked that crisp quality only found in fresh frying. I think it’s true what Celia’s friends say: The farther you get from the coast, the lower the quality of the fish and chips.
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Today, Celia gave me a ride up to Woodend, since she was headed that way anyway to help her friends Brad and Jane work on their new house. My first stop was at a local bakery, where I bought a "lemon slice" and a sandwich. Further up the street I found a fish and chips shop, and decided to sample their food. It was pretty bad. All the items were pre-fried, and lacked that crisp quality only found in fresh frying. I think it’s true what Celia’s friends say: The farther you get from the coast, the lower the quality of the fish and chips.

Today, Celia gave me a ride up to Woodend, since she was headed that way anyway to help her friends Brad and Jane work on their new house. My first stop was at a local bakery, where I bought a “lemon slice” and a sandwich. Further up the street I found a fish and chips shop, and decided to sample their food.

It was pretty bad. All the items were pre-fried, and lacked that crisp quality only found in fresh frying. I think it’s true what Celia’s friends say: The farther you get from the coast, the lower the quality of the fish and chips.

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My next destination was a local park called Hanging Rock.

On the way out to Hanging Rock, through gently sloping farmland. Plenty of sheep and cattle around.
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On the way out to Hanging Rock, through gently sloping farmland. Plenty of sheep and cattle around.

On the way out, through gently sloping farmland. Plenty of sheep and cattle around.

Watch out for roo crossings!
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Watch out for roo crossings!

Watch out for roo crossings!

Most of the way up Hanging Rock. You can see my beard is getting a little out of control!
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Most of the way up Hanging Rock. You can see my beard is getting a little out of control!

Most of the way up Hanging Rock. You can see my beard is getting a little out of control!

Dammit, I blinked!
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Dammit, I blinked!

Dammit, I blinked!

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Part way up, a couple of kids shouted, “Hey! Take our picture!!” I didn’t catch their names. Now their photo is online but they will never find it. Hah!

From the top of Hanging Rock, having a look ’round. I drank some water, took this photograph, then just rested, with my hands on my knees in front of me. I put on my bicycling gloves to keep the sunlight from roasting the backs of my hands. Sun protection, also, is SRS BSNS here in Australia. I’ve heard it said that the government has issued such stern warnings to citizens, against going out into the sun, that there has been a sharp rise in vitamin-D deficiency as a result. They’ve had to step up fortifying their foods.
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From the top of Hanging Rock, having a look ’round. I drank some water, took this photograph, then just rested, with my hands on my knees in front of me. I put on my bicycling gloves to keep the sunlight from roasting the backs of my hands. Sun protection, also, is SRS BSNS here in Australia. I’ve heard it said that the government has issued such stern warnings to citizens, against going out into the sun, that there has been a sharp rise in vitamin-D deficiency as a result. They’ve had to step up fortifying their foods.

From the top of Hanging Rock, having a look ’round. I drank some water, took this photograph, then just rested, with my hands on my knees in front of me. I put on my bicycling gloves to keep the sunlight from roasting the backs of my hands. Sun protection, also, is SRS BSNS here in Australia. I’ve heard it said that the government has issued such stern warnings to citizens, against going out into the sun, that there has been a sharp rise in vitamin-D deficiency as a result. They’ve had to step up fortifying their foods.

House construction, temporarily suspended by the inclement weather. This photo was taken on a bike path at the edge of a small park, and the wind picked up just then, and I had a terrible sneezing fit. Something in the air makes my sinuses go completely crazy for a short while. Don’t know what.
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House construction, temporarily suspended by the inclement weather. This photo was taken on a bike path at the edge of a small park, and the wind picked up just then, and I had a terrible sneezing fit. Something in the air makes my sinuses go completely crazy for a short while. Don’t know what.

House construction, temporarily suspended by the inclement weather.

This photo was taken on a bike path at the edge of a small park, and the wind picked up just then, and I had a terrible sneezing fit. Something in the air makes my sinuses go completely crazy for a short while. Don’t know what.

Brad and Jane, taking a break from house restoration.
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Brad and Jane, taking a break from house restoration.

Brad and Jane, taking a break from house restoration.

I helped out for a little whole, scraping old paint from the walls. After an hour or so, Brad went out and fetched dinner for all of us. I ate happily, thinking it was his way of thanking us for the work. Later on Celia pointed out that the food had been expensive and it would have been polite of me to at least offer to pay for my share.

In retrospect I was a bit surprised at my own behavior. After thinking about it I realized that two things were going on:

First, my attitude towards food was very Californian. The total cost of living is very high in California, but the high price of property throws the cost of other things out of proportion. In effect, food is a small portion of the budget, so we think less about spending money on it. In Australia, food is not just relatively expensive, but expensive in absolute terms. My biggest lesson about that came when I went to a shop called Brunetti, intent on buying a treat for my hosts, and ended up spending 75 bucks on what seemed like barely enough macaroons to fill a plate.

Second, I was going through a very inward-focused, and somewhat selfish, time in my life. My usual sense of gratitude was off-kilter, and I didn’t even notice. I was too busy trying to rediscover and redefine myself.

This trip has certainly given me plenty of food for thought.

Distant Touring With The iPad

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An iPad is a bulky device, relative to a phone. How well does it perform as a piece of kit on a bike tour? Well, that answer is bound to be a bit subjective. Here are my own impressions.

I used mine extensively when traveling in Australia. My local host Celia took me to a phone store where I got a month-to-month data-only SIM for the iPad. So for 25 bucks, I was able to use the 3G in the iPad all through Australia, including Tasmania.

I used it every day, multiple times a day. I used it to find motels and restaurants, read local news, chat with people on AIM, make reservations and book tickets, send email trip updates from cafes, look at my environment in satellite and street view, etc. It’s even got Skype on it, which is MUCH cheaper for international calls to the folks back home. When the battery was low I could (slowly) charge it using the same adapter I used for the phone, saving a bit of weight.

In restaurants it was a conversation starter. I used it to show people photos from back home. Played a little jazz on it when I was relaxing. I used it with Celia to co-plan my outings the day before, since it was big enough for both of us to see and easily poke at the same time.

I placed the iPad in a saddlebag on the bicycle. Whenever I wanted to know where I was, what was around me, where I needed to go, et cetera, I had to go through a short routine: I stopped, walked around to the back of the bike, fetched the iPad from the bag, and used it while standing there over the rear tire. When I was done I packed it away and got back on the bike. Not a big deal, as long as I don’t have to refer to it often, and as long as I’m in a low-crime environment.

(I had an iPhone on the handlebars but it was for the wrong kind of network, so I couldn’t buy a SIM for it in Australia. The only reason I brought it at all was to use it as a music player while riding.)

The one thing that held me back when using the iPad was that I couldn’t immediately call ahead to the hotels I found that didn’t offer digital reservations. I’m pretty sure some cleverness with Skype would have solved that problem.

So, would I travel with an iPad in the future? After all of these use cases you’d think my answer would be an instant “yes”, but here’s the thing: If I bring a laptop, and I already have a phone with a data plan to tether it, then I just don’t need the iPad. … And I am a huge nerd, so a laptop is probably a given for almost all long journeys.

It’s worth noting one more difference between an iPad and a laptop: You stand a chance of charging the iPad with a solar panel. You could conceivably go camping in the woods for a couple of weeks, and use your iPad the whole time, while the laptop would die after a day or two. But on the other hand, when you’re on a bike trip, you’re on roads – and where there are roads, there is almost always electricity nearby. You’d have to be a very particular individual on a very particular bicycle trip – say, a gadget hound meandering through Kazakhstan – for that to shift the balance.

If I had a phone but could not bring a laptop, would I want to bring the iPad?

That’s a more interesting question. Different people have different ways of navigating or documenting their travel, and personally, I’m used to having a laptop, and would still want to do all the things I usually do with it. Most of those activities are difficult or uncomfortable on a phone screen.

With the iPad along I could:

  • Import and store photos from my camera without filling up my phone.
  • Edit and organize those photos more easily than on the phone.
  • Type journal entries and emails, and chat using instant messaging, a lot more comfortably and quickly than on the phone.
  • Research my route a bit more comfortably. (Any notes and screenshots I take will sync over to the phone.)
  • Relax by watching movies and TV shows a lot more comfortably than on the phone.
  • Conduct video chats more comfortably.

In summary, it’s mostly a matter of comfort. Is that level of comfort worth the extra one pound that the latest iPad weighs? For me, the answer is yes. For others, perhaps not.

Australia and Tasmania: The Cemetery wooOOOOooo!

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Today’s excursion: The Melbourne General Cemetery.

Today’s excursion: The Melbourne General Cemetery.
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Today’s excursion: The Melbourne General Cemetery.

There’s a good chunk of history here.

There’s a good chunk of history here. … As well as a good chunk of creepy!
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There’s a good chunk of history here. … As well as a good chunk of creepy!

… As well as a good chunk of creepy!

One Halloween, when I was a kid, I was given a maze to color in at school. It was a graveyard in the woods, with the tombstones leaning crazily around, and ghosts and skeletons capering. I decided I would draw my own version of the maze, by tracing shapes out of it, one at a time, onto a new piece of paper. As I went I became enthralled with the idea of a graveyard maze that stretched to infinity – an endless recombination of the same few elements, and the real trick was, it was a three-dimensional place, and if you stood in any spot and took a flat photograph of what you saw, the photograph would make a two-dimensional maze, with an entrance and an exit. Walking around here brought back that memory, and that idea.
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One Halloween, when I was a kid, I was given a maze to color in at school. It was a graveyard in the woods, with the tombstones leaning crazily around, and ghosts and skeletons capering. I decided I would draw my own version of the maze, by tracing shapes out of it, one at a time, onto a new piece of paper. As I went I became enthralled with the idea of a graveyard maze that stretched to infinity – an endless recombination of the same few elements, and the real trick was, it was a three-dimensional place, and if you stood in any spot and took a flat photograph of what you saw, the photograph would make a two-dimensional maze, with an entrance and an exit. Walking around here brought back that memory, and that idea.

One Halloween, when I was a kid, I was given a maze to color in at school. It was a graveyard in the woods, with the tombstones leaning crazily around, and ghosts and skeletons capering. I decided I would draw my own version of the maze, by tracing shapes out of it, one at a time, onto a new piece of paper. As I went I became enthralled with the idea of a graveyard maze that stretched to infinity – an endless recombination of the same few elements, and the real trick was, it was a three-dimensional place, and if you stood in any spot and took a flat photograph of what you saw, the photograph would make a two-dimensional maze, with an entrance and an exit.

Walking around here brought back that memory, and that idea.

"The Werewolf", by Angela Carter, describes graveyards as "those bleak and touching townships of the dead."
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"The Werewolf", by Angela Carter, describes graveyards as "those bleak and touching townships of the dead."

“The Werewolf”, by Angela Carter, describes graveyards as “those bleak and touching townships of the dead.”

Spiders are SRS BSNS here, too.
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Spiders are SRS BSNS here, too.

Spiders are SRS BSNS here, too.

I don’t know what happened to Tom Askew or his parents, but I suspect they were lost at sea.
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I don’t know what happened to Tom Askew or his parents, but I suspect they were lost at sea.

I don’t know what happened to Tom Askew or his parents, but I suspect they were lost at sea.

The Jewish quarter.
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The Jewish quarter.

The Jewish quarter.

Buried here, we find three of the four people who headed the first Western expedition to cross the continent of Australia.
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Buried here, we find three of the four people who headed the first Western expedition to cross the continent of Australia.

Buried here, we find three of the four people who headed the first Western expedition to cross the continent of Australia.

Walter Lindrum was the founder and first president of the Sportsmen’s Association of Australia. The grave is cleverly designed – the pockets in the "pool table" have tiny holes in them so the table doesn’t fill with water.
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Walter Lindrum was the founder and first president of the Sportsmen’s Association of Australia. The grave is cleverly designed – the pockets in the "pool table" have tiny holes in them so the table doesn’t fill with water.

Walter Lindrum was the founder and first president of the Sportsmen’s Association of Australia. The grave is cleverly designed – the pockets in the “pool table” have tiny holes in them so the table doesn’t fill with water.

A closer look…
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A closer look…

One more look at that super-creepy statue…

As part of my Australia adventure, I decided to eat as the Australians eat. I decided that this meant eating lots of fish and chips. Sea Salt served their fish thickly battered, and made the chips nice and crispy for me, even though soggy chips are more traditional.
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As part of my Australia adventure, I decided to eat as the Australians eat. I decided that this meant eating lots of fish and chips. Sea Salt served their fish thickly battered, and made the chips nice and crispy for me, even though soggy chips are more traditional.

As part of my Australia adventure, I decided to eat as the Australians eat. I decided that this meant eating lots of fish and chips. “Sea Salt” served their fish thickly battered, and made the chips nice and crispy for me, even though soggy chips are more traditional.

(I decided I had to stop being vegan in November, when my symptoms were extremely bad. I’ve still strongly de-emphasized dairy, and I don’t like milk. My symptoms have improved in the last month. I may try for vegan again at some point, since I suspect the improvement was for unrelated reasons.)

I’m a bike nerd, and I thought this bike was nifty, so here you go!
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I’m a bike nerd, and I thought this bike was nifty, so here you go!

I’m a bike nerd, and I thought this bike was nifty, so here you go!

Australia and Tasmania: Biking Around Mel-Bun

These crosswalk signs are all over the city, and I find them very cute!
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These crosswalk signs are all over the city, and I find them very cute!

These crosswalk signs are all over the city, and I find them very cute!

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Celia took me on an adventure to the local shops. “Hipster”, here, doesn’t seem to have the instant negative connotation that it has been accumulating in the ‘states.

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THE CANDY AISLE!!!!

OMG!!!

I bought five candy bars here, all types I’d never seen before, and was so impatient to try them that I chomped one during the walk home. Tasty stuff!

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Sticky fig pudding, OMG!!!

No, I didn’t buy it, but I was very amused to see a freakin’ FIG PUDDING invoke internet buzzwords to describe itself. I wonder how long we’ll wait before a supermarket product like, say, hand soap, bears the acronym “OMFG”. Or, a package of bologna proclaims “WTF???” (That would be appropriate.)

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This bank NABbed some of my money as I was withdrawing it.

Hey, man, don’t let life get you down. Just remember, everyone’s a winner at the REJECT SHOP.
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Hey, man, don’t let life get you down. Just remember, everyone’s a winner at the REJECT SHOP.

Hey, man, don’t let life get you down. Just remember, everyone’s a winner at the REJECT SHOP.

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This shop sold a flashing LED Fish-and-Chips sign that I subsequently saw hanging in at least five shops around greater Melbourne.

Several of my adventures took me down the bike paths that connect most of the parks in Melbourne.
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Several of my adventures took me down the bike paths that connect most of the parks in Melbourne.

Several of my adventures took me down the bike paths that connect most of the parks in Melbourne.

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Here’s one of the routes I took.

Just as much litter in these parks as any park in Oakland, unfortunately…
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Just as much litter in these parks as any park in Oakland, unfortunately…

Just as much litter in these parks as any park in Oakland, unfortunately…

Again … eight thousand miles away, and this could be a photo from Oakland.
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Again … eight thousand miles away, and this could be a photo from Oakland.

Again … eight thousand miles away, and this could be a photo from Oakland.

Vacant land may be a rare opportunity in WestGarth, but who would want to build over that fine graffiti? They might attract the wrath of EKSIT !
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Vacant land may be a rare opportunity in WestGarth, but who would want to build over that fine graffiti? They might attract the wrath of EKSIT !

Vacant land may be a rare opportunity in WestGarth, but who would want to build over that fine graffiti? They might attract the wrath of EKSIT !

Gay couple confidently out in public? If so, I find this encouraging.
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Gay couple confidently out in public? If so, I find this encouraging.

Gay couple confidently out in public? If so, I find this encouraging.

I don’t know what it means, but it’s fun to look at.
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I don’t know what it means, but it’s fun to look at.

I don’t know what it means, but it’s fun to look at.

Pigeons: The same the world over.
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Pigeons: The same the world over.

Pigeons: The same the world over.

Taking a post-ride break at the entrance to Celia’s apartment. I had the Secret of Mana+ album playing on a loop in my headphones the entire day, and now it’s thoroughly associated with this little warm, sunlit alcove.
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Taking a post-ride break at the entrance to Celia’s apartment. I had the Secret of Mana+ album playing on a loop in my headphones the entire day, and now it’s thoroughly associated with this little warm, sunlit alcove.

Taking a post-ride break at the entrance to Celia’s apartment. I had the Secret of Mana+ album playing on a loop in my headphones the entire day, and now it’s thoroughly associated with this little warm, sunlit alcove.

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One night Celia and I visited a friend’s house, and she spotted a huge spider on the wall. Spiders are Serious Business business in Australia – there are some common species that will cause necrosis from a bite, or nerve damage, or even kill you. Back in the ‘states I do everything I can do rescue spiders in the house, provided they don’t try to creep into my bed or establish themselves near it. Here, the rules are different. You don’t want critters this lethal anywhere near your living space.

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Celia immediately removed her shoe and issued a smackdown.