Iceland Page 12

Memory

“You shall forget these things, toiling in the household,
You shall remember them, droning by the fire,
When age and forgetfulness sweeten memory
Only like a dream that has often been told
And often been changed in the telling.  They will seem unreal.
Human kind cannot bear very much reality.”

-T. S. Eliot

A day off to wrap up

The sound of people and cars outside in the street was unfamiliar after so many days in the wilderness. I woke up early, took an awkward rinse in the weird, fragile-looking shower, and packed my gear onto the bike in touring configuration for the last time. Tomorrow I would be rearranging things for travel on the ferry boat: I’d separate my sleeping gear and laptop into a backpack, and the rest would be stowed on the bicycle in a locked cargo area with a bunch of parked cars.

Loading everything up in touring mode one final time.

I rode around town for a while, enjoying the fact that I had no destination or budget of miles to ride today.

Welcome to Seydisfjordur. No fishing on the bridge!

Eventually I settled in a restaurant next to the one I’d visited the other night. A cycle tourist was there, all fresh-looking and clean because he had just rolled off the ferry boat and was preparing to head East, retracing my steps.

Justin is heading out on the Iceland portion of his seven-month tour. Go go go!

Justin is built for speed, and his gear weighs about half mine. He’ll rocket up that scary mountainside and arrive in Egilsstaðer before dinner! I’m glad I got some touring done in my early 30’s so I could experience it when I still had that level of energy. Now I’m slow and cautious and thoughtful. And I like fish and chips way more than I should!

With some time to spare, I answered some thoughtful questions from friends and family.

Question:
How do you feel now that the Iceland crossing is done?
Answer:
I’m feeling proud, accomplished, validated, and more than a little surprised.

Proud and accomplished because of the miles I’ve covered, and the fact that I did it as I intended:  Without any bus, train, or other wheeled transport, in an unbroken line, with the exception of the boat rides.

Validated, and definitely surprised, because the equipment and the bike worked so well.  I was over-prepared, and sent some cooking equipment and electronic toys home midway through, but I never felt like I was lacking for a piece of gear.

For example, the combination of waterproof socks, gore-tex pants and jacket, rain hat, wool sweater, wool cap, sweats, hiking socks, and sandals let me add layers one at a time as the day got colder, all the way up to the coldest day I experienced. More than once I remember being confused by the sensations I was feeling, because I was standing next to the bike while 30+ mile-per-hour wind was slapping freezing rain into my body, and I felt perfectly warm and dry.

I’m also feeling a strange ambivalence about returning to the US, and getting back to work.  I like my job: The people are fantastic and the work is challenging. But on the other hand, I’ve validated this set of hardware, and I’m way closer to “touring shape” than I was when I started, and I feel like I’ve only barely begun to see all the amazing things out in the world through this mode of transport.  The trip feels just long enough – or perhaps almost long enough – to complete a transformation, from my rooted self to my compact and traveling adventure self.  And now that transformation will have to run in reverse. That’s a bit disappointing.

Still, there are creature comforts I miss about Oakland.  The weather.  The easy access to amazing food of almost every kind, with multiple options of each.  The cornucopia of cultural experiences, always renewing and changing.  The high concentration of computer geeks.  I can set up a chair in the park and read, and watch the sun creep down the cool granite of the monuments.  I can unfold the laptop in a coffee shop — one of a rotating list of lovely places to think and write, where the staff know me by name.

I can hold my cat.

There are things I am definitely going to miss, and eventually pine for, about touring as well.  The fact that I can get aerobic exercise for hours every day in an ever-changing and sometimes challenging and breathtaking environment.  The direct exposure to smells and fresh wind and weather and living things.  The excited discussions with fellow travelers.  The firehose onslaught of new thoughts, triggered by random things on the road, in endless combination.

And probably most of all, how sometimes during the day – and almost always during the night – I can stop the bike at any random time, and there I am: Outside, in a quiet open space in the middle of nowhere.

So yeah, it’s complicated. But for now, in the careful balance of things, home is my destination of choice.

Question:
Do you feel like you’ve had enough time in Iceland?
Answer:
Part of me will never feel like I’ve had enough time in Iceland. I can imagine myself living an entire life in Iceland, roaming over the hills, and resting among my fellow quiet introverts.

There’s always less time than we want for journeys like this. It would have been amazing to cross the center of Iceland like I was planning, but I’d need another month to do it right. I could have easily dropped another two weeks into the terrain I covered in the last 4 days, and still not felt like it was enough — like I was slowing down enough. Actually, what would it take, to go slow enough? Would I have to abandon the bike and walk? How about if I crawled across the landscape, inspecting each rock in detail, and pausing every five minutes to meditate and listen to the wind? I could cross Iceland that way in a mere five years. Would that be slow enough? Bah.

I looked back over my GPS recordings and recreated something close to the equivalent with Google Maps:

The route I ended up riding, after making some on-the-fly changes.

750 miles is a pretty epic ride, especially with so many hills. I can be happy with that.

I sorted photos and made notes, and ate an early dinner in the pub. Then I went tootling around on my bike for a while.

This quaint rainbow road leads from the main restaurant in town to the door of the church.

I'm going to assume without checking that this sculpture is the same shape as the fjord seen from above.

Is this a punk band? Name like that, it should be.

Whatever's in here, it's bound to be wacky.

After that I went to the hostel, where I would be spending my final night on Icelandic shores. While I was checking in, a kitty colonized my bike.

Apparently someone has taken my seat.

Way too cute to move.

I shall name her Brunhilde!

The welcoming committee outside the hostel.

After hanging out with the fuzzy welcoming committee for a while longer, I went browsing around the building. It had a huge kitchen with a dozen people mingling in it. Several meals were in progress on the stove and countertop. I sat down for a while and checked in with work, enjoying the indirect presence of people and the indirect sunlight.

The Lagarfljót wyrm!!

The first floor of the hostel. Does it seem like a converted hospital? That's because it is.

Old stairs, typically narrow.

In spite of all my traveling, I’d never stayed in a hostel before. This would be my first experience with one. As I scoped out the rooms I felt like the lack of privacy was going to make me nervous. How could I protect all my gear? But then I remembered: I’m in Iceland. A local stealing so much as a candy bar would probably feel so ashamed that she’d return and leave some money where she took it from.

Upstairs in the hostel.

I picked the bed by the open window. With my earplugs and sleep mask it was comfortable.

Standing around in the room, looking at all the beds, the fact that I was in a way-station for tourists returned to me, and I decided to use a little more caution. The clerk at the desk downstairs told me about a janitorial closet down in the basement that was nicely concealed, so I stripped all my bags off my bike and stacked them down there before setting up my bed.

The Icelandic sunlight hours were still very long. The other people in the room were probably glad that I’d taken the bed by the window, but I had earplugs and a sleep mask. I applied them and slowly drifted off. The final night in this country would pass without fanfare, and that was fine.

Leaving on the ferry

Waiting patiently for scraps. My contribution was a piece of bacon saved from dinner.

I shall name her Brunhilde!

Cats know what is best in life!

I said goodbye to Brunhilde, then made my way to the giant boat.

That's the boat that will take me out of Iceland.

The cyclists were all told to wait in a line together, than dispatched all at once into the belly of the beast.

Lots of cars loading up.

Guides with radios and greasy uniforms directed us to a corner.

This guy directed me to the right spot on the deck for bikes.

We tethered our bikes in place with whatever we could find. In a few days, after stopping at the Faroe islands, the area around us would be packed almost solid with truck trailers. The ferry was obviously a major supply route.

Kick-standed, tagged, and roped in place. for the journey.

My first task on the ship was to convert some of my Icelandic Króna (ISK) to Danish Krone (DKK). Good thing the Danes are scrupulous people because it would be easy to scam tourists: One currency is worth about twenty times the other.

The last of my Icelandic coinage.

New country, new money.

Next I had to find a locker to store my stuff. I didn’t feel comfortable carrying it around on my back, and I didn’t want to leave it by my bedside. The lockers were coin operated and cost the equivalent of about two dollars every time you opened one. At least they were spacious.

Everything you need to carry around, when you have a locker: Your badge, the locker key, and enough coins to open it six more times.

Plenty of room to store all the things I'll need, since I can't access my bike.

About 2/3 of the lockers had keys broken off in them. The work of some disgruntled passenger.

Finally found one with a usable key. Accidentally turned it the wrong way after I put in the first coin. Two bucks wasted...

The sleeping area was more “hostel” than the hostel I’d just left. All five of my bunkmates were men, since the rooms were split by gender for safety purposes. (Nevertheless, on day two of the trip, a woman began sleeping in one of the bunks, intertwined with her lover. Exceptions to the rule!)

Heavy swinging doors so people didn't have to constantly fumble with noisy handles.

It was only bearable because everyone was as quiet as possible.

Yeah, it was as cramped as it looks.

I prepared my bed and locked up most of my gear, then went upstairs and had my first open-faced Danish sandwich. I ate it with a knife and fork like a proper gentleman, as my mother taught me!

Eating my first open-faced sandwich with a knife and fork, like a civilized person.

The boat got underway and Iceland began to slide past the window, then move to the horizon. I wandered around the ship for a while and did some more writing.

Question:
Do you feel like the physical end of the trip coincided with some emotional or mental resolutions?
Answer:
In the movie version, of course it would. But real life is messier than that…

Yeah — in the movie, I would suddenly reach a whole pile of amazing conclusions in my head just a day or two before closing the lid on the bicycle box and riding the shuttle to the airport for the flight home. Then I’d be looking out the window of the plane, all smiling and fulfilled, as credits began to roll up the side of the sky.

Reality didn’t have such a great sense of timing. But about 3/4 of the way through the ride I did get to a weird place in my head, and I think the best way to describe it is with a metaphor about travel:

In the time before by decision to go on this journey, there had been a giant slow-moving explosion in my emotional landscape. When I pedaled away from civilization – probably best identified as the city of Reykjavik – I was also pedaling away from the center of that explosion — and as I moved along, I found pieces.

Some of those pieces were twisted and unrecognizable at first, but clearly part of myself, so I picked them up and carried them.  Then there were parts that I found sitting on undisturbed ground, obscured by weeds. They had been discarded before the explosion, when I was going somewhere else.  I picked those up too.

Every night I would arrange them around me and try to make them fit together. Hammer at a few of them. Some I connected with and took into myself. I found my love of in-depth conversation; I found my joy at open spaces and quiet presence in them; I found my curiosity of the natural world.  (That piece was fully intact, and I realized I’d dropped it quite a long time ago when I stopped pushing to go on nature-oriented trips with my ex.)

I found my enthusiasm for writing.  I found pieces of my ability to stand up for what I needed. Somewhere around the crossing to Flatey Island I had a little epiphany that I wrote down in one short sentence: There is often a difference between what I want, and what other people want me to want, and I’m tired of ignoring the first in favor of the second. Even if it would make someone really happy for me to want or like or care about something, if I don’t feel that way, I really shouldn’t defer to their happiness.

I think my struggle with that has been a struggle with confrontation, and with the part of me that wants to please the people around me. I’m very fortunate to have the time and independence to work on it; to even have the choice, instead of circumstances making it for me.

I saw this view a lot.

Over the next couple of days I would often find myself sitting on the floor of the locker room, down in the depths of the ship, listening to the throbbing of the engine. It was the only place anywhere that had a door I could close, allowing me to be entirely alone for extended periods of time. I was still too used to the wilderness.

The Faroe Islands

The ship ticked along. I organized photos and did some writing, and did my best to sleep in the confined space of the bunks. The earplugs and facemask helped.

Current course, plotted course.

Research data collected by the ship during the journey.

By the time the Faroe Islands hove into view, I was desperate to get outside again. The sudden confinement after weeks of open space was twisting my emotions. I felt like a cat stuffed in a carrier box.

All mountains in the Faroe Islands have nipples on them.

The wet air and the green, uncluttered hills were a cross between Iceland and the pictures I’d seen of the English coast. Less snow than Iceland, fewer trees than England.

Approaching Tórshavn.

As soon a the garage opened and cars began spewing out, I joined the parade. I was immediately dropped into a very bicycle-averse tangle of narrow streets and impatient drivers.

The street is charming, and reminds me of Iceland, but I'm distracted by the campaign poster for BJØRT.

There's a license place I've never cycled behind before ... it says FO in the corner.

I so didn’t care… It was great just to be outside the belly of that steel beast.

Definitely a nordic influence here.

I didn’t have very much time, so I wasn’t confident I could range very far from the harbor. Instead I made a few random turns and then called up a map on my phone and steered for the nearest coffee shop. There I found a supply of filtered water and some incredible chocolate pie, both of which I smuggled back onto the ship.

It's first-world for sure! Here I am enjoying some amazingly good chocolate pie.

The chocolate pie was so good, and the chocolate on the ship was so bad, that I snuck some pie aboard.

The water on the ship is horrible too. Either you buy it in really expensive bottles, or you bring your own supply. I filled this in the Faroe Islands.

The atmosphere was pleasant. I drank a mocha and worked for a while. Then the weather took a turn for the worse, and since I didn’t have my rain gear I reluctantly packed things up and returned to the ship.

Tomorrow would be a full day at sea, and then I’d arrive in Denmark, effectively ending the bicycling portion of my journey. From there it would be mostly train travel.

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Iceland retrospective

Bilbo never set foot in Bag End again. Neither did I.

When I got back to the Bay Area I moved my possessions into a sublet — a second-story victorian flat with lots of windows, only a few blocks from my house. The tenants I’d rented my place to carried right on renting it. I really didn’t want to move back in there.

I pictured myself, walking into the bedroom of that old apartment at the end of the first day, laying down – probably on my unrolled sleeping bag – and looking at the ceiling, and being seized with a gut-wrenching mixture of panic and disgust, as all the old memories of being in that place crowded forward from my past and trampled on my wonderful memories of Iceland, crushing the life out of them. I was determined to avoid that.

It was a very good decision. As I write this, the sublet has been running for six months, and one month remains. I’ve been working, writing, re-assessing the long-term view of my life, and also hosting my eldest nephew as he lives away from his parents for the first time. I’ve reconnected with family and most of my friends, and done a lot of dating — carefully at first, then with increasing confidence. And that has led to a good place as well.

I made a presentation of my Iceland journey at work, which was fun. I put together a slide show, and now I bust that out whenever a friend or relative wants to hear the story. They often comment on how green and fresh the countryside looks. They also like the sheep and birds and horses.

Life is good for an Icelandic horse.

Lookin' for snacks

Every time I go through the slideshow I re-live the trip a little. I remember how the people were kind and gracious, the air was clean, and every day led to a new discovery. But … six months later, you know what I miss most about Iceland? The fish.

Some days when I’ve been exercising and I feel a bit hungry, my stomach stomps upstairs into my brain and bellows, “MORE OF THAT ICELANDIC FISH. WHERE IS IT?

I’m trying to save money for the next trip, which is coming soon, and I’m struggling with that because there are taxes to pay and lots of house projects to do. Icelandair keeps sending me emails with promotional prices for flights to Iceland, and whenever I see one, my stomach says, “Forget about saving! Just go back there and stuff me full of that fish!!”

It’s very silly. Half of the appeal of that fish was due to the exercise I was getting, and the calorie and protein deficit I ran every day. I know that abstractly. But my stomach is too dumb.

The Gear

Looking back there isn’t a single thing I would change about the gear I brought. It was fantastic, especially the inflatable tent. I set it up and took it down around two dozen times, often in bad lighting conditions, and it was effortless and quick. It stood up in the wind, it didn’t leak, it didn’t get too hot or cold, and it didn’t weigh much more than a tent of similar size.

Tent all spread out, ready to inflate.
Tent inflated, with bicycle stowed under attached tarp. That red mark is the taillight, visible through the fabric.
Tent inflated, with bicycle stowed under, from a different angle.
You can see my hack job here, where I ziptied a tarp to the side of the tent. From a distance it almost looks like it was designed this way...
Set up in less than 5 minutes, and ready for snoozles!
Another fine setup, tucked into a corner.
Set up in the corner of the campground, for maximum wind blockage.
Had to pitch on a bit of an incline to avoid the mud, but the night only cost 6 dollars.
The tent, tucked into a nice corner of the Búðardalur campground.
Striking camp. Takes about five minutes!
I do enjoy being able to keep the bike out of the rain.
Snug as a bug.
Gotta have my morning music!

Starting with the tent in a compression sack, I could get it staked down and inflated, then get my gear inside and the bike covered, in about five minutes. I sometimes daydream about going on another bicycle camping trip just so I can use that tent.

Here’s a short list of problems I had on past trips but didn’t have to worry about this time:

  • Non-waterproof bags soak up rainwater which adds a massive amount of dead weight to your bike until they dry.
  • Generators can charge devices but it’s always slower than you’d like. Their true utility is in removing headlights entirely from the power equation, and making it so your headlights never die. This may save your life, several times over.
  • Braking with V-brakes and hitting a pothole at the same time on a heavily loaded bike can crack your rim. With disc brakes this is not an issue.
  • In a high wind, your bike may pitch over while you’re camping. If your bike is covered this isn’t a problem. You can also tie it upright with a guyline and a few stakes. A velcro strap is also handy for holding down one of your brake handles so the bike doesn’t roll. (Don’t use a tightly wound rope or a rubber band, or the high pressure will rapidly stretch your brake cables.)
  • A partially broken rack or a rack with one bolt missing is repairable if you detect it quickly. If you don’t, you will soon discover a completely broken rack, which is not repairable. Inspect your rack at least every other day. If the bolt ends stick out far enough, consider putting lock nuts on them so they don’t unwind on the road.

Clothing

I was also pleased with the clothing I packed for this trip. Here’s a short list:

  • One pair of jeans
  • A swimsuit
  • One pair of sweats
  • Four pieces of underwear
  • Three pairs of wool socks
  • Two short-sleeved shirts
  • Two long-sleeved shirts
  • A thick wool sweater
  • Some pajamas (wool top, cotton pants, thin socks)
  • A Hawaiian shirt (for fun)
  • Two thick bandanas
  • A wool cap
  • A cotton bucket hat

For rain I packed:

  • A pair of waterproof socks
  • “Gore Tex” rain pants
  • A “Gore Tex Pro” jacket
  • A waterproof rain hood
  • Thick waster resistant gloves
  • A waterproof balaclava

When I could find a clothes washer (almost impossible on this trip) I washed everything cold in one load, with the exception of the wool sweater and the rain gear. Usually I had to wash clothes in the shower or the sink of a hotel room, then hang them to dry near the radiator. That worked pretty well in the dry Iceland air. No issues with mold.

And of course I can’t forget the bike, Valoria.

Pausing on an uphill

Yeah, I spend a lot of time spinning on hills rather than powering up them like some cycle tourists do. But the comfort! The panoramas! The safety of never going over the handlebars! The dashboard!

All in all it was a massive success and I’m excited for the next adventure. Onward!