To Carson City

Hey, I know! I’ll go for a swim before I head out!

Pools are off limits these days.

Oops, COVID-19 strikes again… That’s okay; I didn’t even bring swim trunks.

I threaded my way to the southern edge of Reno, taking my time. As usual just about everyone gave me strange looks because of the bicycle. Definitely a good thing since it increases my visibility.

I got onto “ALT 395”, which runs alongside interstate 580, and settled in for a long afternoon. My progress was slowed by a steady headwind. As I went I kept a tally of the number and kind of dead animals along the road. Eventually I got to 3 squished snakes, 2 smashed rabbits, 2 dead birds, and 2 dead deer, one of whom apparently expired with its head stuck between the wires of a fence. (It’s grim but I find that if I pay attention to it for a day, I can usually stop noticing it on subsequent days.)

I also passed a lot of construction projects, some involving the road. People in yellow hats, carrying clipboards and driving machinery, shouting at each other. Long strings of cones. Sometimes it’s hard to tell there’s a pandemic happening.

I found out later that this is the “Ormat Steamboat Power Plant”. A renewable energy project.

Not sure what species is being protected, but it's nice to see Nevada cares.

Apparently the plant is built in an area that is home to some protected species? Not sure which one…

Can't help but think of an old industrial noise band when I see this logo...
The elevated interstate highway.
Not a sign I see in Oakland!
Yep, there's still snow up there!
Who needs Google Maps? Everything's labeled!
Can't decide what to do with your extra scrap of corrugated aluminum roofing? Flag!
Politics here are very different from my home town.

While I was parked by the side of the road drinking water and chomping a half-melted candy bar, a man walked out of the house nearby and asked if I was alright. He was wearing a t-shirt and shorts, and a metal cross hung from a chain on the outside of his shirt.

“Oh, I’m fine,” I said. “I just have to do a lot of eating in order to keep pedaling all this gear around,” I said, and gestured to the bike. “Thanks for checking in, though.”

We chatted about bicycling for a while, and he said “Okay, well let me know if you need anything. Safe travels. God bless.”

I was grateful as always for the interest, and his salutation of “God bless” was an interesting reminder for me: I’m no longer in urban California. People around here have the Christian faith woven into their speech as the standard. I didn’t mind, of course; it was just interesting to think about how I sometimes feel more at home in almost any large urban center regardless of country than I feel out in the middle of my own country.

That feeling was amplified by the ‘Trump’ sign planted in front of the house down the street.

Suddenly in a thoughtful mood, I climbed aboard the bike and pedaled on.

Hot road. I could feel my tires sliding on the tar in a couple of places.
If this rock isn't called St. Bernard Rock, I'll be surprised.
When sagebrush gets a little too much water!
If this stick house were in the Bay Area it would be worth $350,000
It's like a colony of fluffy cat tails! (Actual "cat tail" plants don't look nearly as fluffy.)
Whispery grass.
Two carriages in a wee glass house, with my very modern bike in the reflection.
Lots of birds hanging out in the preserve area.
Big views near the lake.

After a while I passed a small herd of deer running around in a field next to the road. A half mile later I passed a large sign reading “Deer Run Farm.” A smaller sign next to that read “No Trespassing” and another sign next to that read “No Hunting.” I assume some literal-minded folks had tried to shoot deer from the road without technically trespassing on the farm, requiring that third sign!

Deer Run Farm lives up to its name!

Deer out and about.

I also passed a number of monuments to roadside fatalities.

Some poor fellow met an untimely end here. Asleep at the wheel? Hit an animal? Drunk driver?

Name obscured.

Another bleak memorial to a fallen traveler

Continuing the grim spectacle, I found this at a turnout:

Some deer don't make it.

Closeup of the deer.

A little ways after that I passed under the interstate highway, and began a climb up through a well-manicured suburban neighborhood. Out of curiosity I looked up the house prices on Zillow: It was a range from 700k up to 1.5 million. This was obviously the glamorous part of Carson City.

At the same time I hit the highest point on the day’s ride:

Highest elevation for the day. 5300 feet!

From there it was all downhill, blasting down towards Carson City on a steep road. The wind tore the visor off my helmet and I had to walk back up the hill and fetch it, but I considered myself lucky because it landed on the road and was easy to spot. From there I turned onto a paved bicycle-only path that ran along the hillside for several miles. A real bike path! A pleasant surprise.

First stop: The capitol building. Very serene and shady.

Outside the Nevada State Capitol building. Dig that silver roof!

I meandered around town a bit more before checking into a hotel.

That explains the cool bike path I found earlier.

Carson City style! I think Jack is handing out "Howdy bucks." I wonder what they buy?

I booked two days, knowing that since this was my first day back on the road I would need some time to adjust. Besides, I had work to do. And I also needed to eat a bunch of food!

Getting me two days' worth of some fine thai food. Going to spend tomorrow resting and working.

Managed to get it all back to the hotel with no spills!

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The Train To Reno

As usual before a big trip, I didn’t sleep well. Too excited.

Setting out in the morning. The shades are concealing some very tired eyeballs!

I had a few extra minutes before I needed to hit the train station, so I got a donut and a mocha, to supplement the big chunks of bread I’d pilfered from the kitchen on the way out. The previous night I’d been watching the South Park episode “All About Mormons” while trying to repair my camping light, and the song was now bouncing all over my sleep-deprived brain. I couldn’t remember the lyrics though. As I rode to the train station I sang:

Joseph Smith he was a Mormon
      Dum dum dum dum dummm
Farty-pantsy pantsy-farty
      Dum dum dum dum dummm

Transporting a bicycle on the train is so much easier than transporting one by air, it’s almost disorienting. You just get a luggage tag for it like any other piece of luggage, and make sure you’re early in line to load the bike on the train so the attendant has time to prepare.

Just tag the bike, remove the bags, and hand it up to the luggage car. Amazingly easy.

Take your bags off and carry them with you, or check them too if you like. That’s it. No box and no disassembly required. (I assume this is because the train service is terribly under-utilized right now due to COVID-19, because the regulations state that you need some kind of bike carrier box. I asked the clerk about it the day before and he said a box would not be needed.)

Writing code as we move across the land.

Now you can see how tired I am!

I’d purchased a little private room, because I wanted a safe place to stick five big chunks of luggage, and some relative isolation from the other passengers. It wasn’t much more expensive than a regular ticket, and the table was helpful for getting work done.

All I had to do was sit, and the landscape slowly transformed outside the window until I was in Reno:

The ride was quite pleasant, though there was a dark spot. I could overhear someone playing a talk show on their phone with the volume turned way up. The little speaker carried right through the wall. It was some obviously right-wing pundit screaming at the top of his lungs, about how Democrats are ruining the country because they’re saying there’s systemic racism.

“What systemic racism?” screamed the pundit. “The officer who killed George Floyd was arrested and charged with murder! The system obviously works! What are these people complaining about?”

What? That didn’t make sense. The pundit was either deliberately not mentioning, or just plain ignorant, that all the repercussions for Floyd’s death have come about because the four police officers who pinned him down were recorded by onlookers, who then raised hell. No recording, no uproar. One of the officers even tried to prevent the recording, by ordering the onlookers to stop, then brandishing pepper spray.

This is all aside from the fact that Floyd was being arrested on suspicion of using a counterfeit bill at a nearby market. That’s not even a violent crime; not even close. If I write a bad check, I get a 35 dollar fine. George Floyd was strangled slowly to death face-down in a public street by the police for the equivalent.

This information is everywhere online and trivial to verify. And yet, I’m hearing this talk show pundit have a full-scale 100-meter freestyle whimpering hissy-fit, which goes on for half an hour, based on an ignorance of the facts that it would have taken him 30 seconds on a smartphone to dispel. How could it be anything but deliberate?

“The Democrats want these protests to happen! They want the looting to happen! They don’t care if the whole police force gets defunded and the country sinks into anarchy, they just want Republicans to die. This is a war on white middle class people and it’s based on lies!”

Deliberate construction of an enemy, blaming it for every problem, stoking fear and impotent rage. What people are drawn to this? Why do they take it in? What do they get for spending hours absorbing it?

These are the times we live in. Honestly, I’d feel much better if the passenger on the other side of the wall was just watching porn.

I put in my headphones and ignored the voice. Then the ride was great again. I only left the compartment twice to use the bathroom, and wore my mask and washed my hands thoroughly each time. Getting sick is no way to start a bike trip!

I could tell when I was getting close to Reno because the number of hidden homeless camps sharply increased.

Homeless huts tucked in along the railroad are a thing in Reno too. The only difference between these and the ones in Oakland is the occupant is more likely to be addicted to meth than to crack.

At the Reno station, I marched out to the platform with my bags. The man at the luggage car already had my bike at the doorway, and he handed it down to me. And just like that, I was in Reno with all my gear! Why do I travel on airplanes…?

Bike off the train; bags off the train. All in less than three minutes. So much better than flying.

Outside the air was fresh and it was only 88 degrees. I rode around a bit to orient myself.

Big sky in Reno!
All bundled up to ride around the town.
More big sky.
Got to photograph the silly arch!
Local protestors. Not very many of them, but they're out and about.
A whale of a sculpture!

The main drag was a forest of construction cones. Looks like the city is jumping on the chance to get a lot of work done while people are away.

Lots of construction happening on the main drag in Reno, taking advantage of the light traffic from COVID-19 and curfews.

I rode southeast for a little while and checked into a sorta-sketchy hotel near a mexican restaurant, then got some to-go food and munched it while watching a documentary on the Vietnam War. It seemed appropriate for the times.

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First day of riding tomorrow! Big day!

Iceland retrospective

Frodo did not return to Bag End for long. Neither did I.

When I got back to the Bay Area I moved my possessions into a sublet — a second-story victorian flat with lots of windows, only a few blocks from my house. The tenants I’d rented my place to carried right on renting it. I really didn’t want to move back in there.

I pictured myself, walking into the bedroom of that old apartment at the end of the first day, laying down – probably on my unrolled sleeping bag – and looking at the ceiling, and being seized with a gut-wrenching mixture of panic and disgust, as all the old memories of being in that place crowded forward from my past and trampled on my wonderful memories of Iceland, crushing the life out of them. I was determined to avoid that.

It was a very good decision. As I write this, the sublet has been running for six months, and one month remains. I’ve been working, writing, re-assessing the long-term view of my life, and also hosting my eldest nephew as he lives away from his parents for the first time. I’ve reconnected with family and most of my friends, and done a lot of dating — carefully at first, then with increasing confidence. And that has led to a good place as well.

I made a presentation of my Iceland journey at work, which was fun. I put together a slide show, and now I bust that out whenever a friend or relative wants to hear the story. They often comment on how green and fresh the countryside looks. They also like the sheep and birds and horses.

Life is good for an Icelandic horse.

Lookin' for snacks

Every time I go through the slideshow I re-live the trip a little. I remember how the people were kind and gracious, the air was clean, and every day led to a new discovery. But … six months later, you know what I miss most about Iceland? The fish.

Some days when I’ve been exercising and I feel a bit hungry, my stomach stomps upstairs into my brain and bellows, “MORE OF THAT ICELANDIC FISH. WHERE IS IT?

I’m trying to save money for the next trip, which is coming soon, and I’m struggling with that because there are taxes to pay and lots of house projects to do. Icelandair keeps sending me emails with promotional prices for flights to Iceland, and whenever I see one, my stomach says, “Forget about saving! Just go back there and stuff me full of that fish!!”

It’s very silly. Half of the appeal of that fish was due to the exercise I was getting, and the calorie and protein deficit I ran every day. I know that abstractly. But my stomach is too dumb.

The Gear

Looking back there isn’t a single thing I would change about the gear I brought. It was fantastic, especially the inflatable tent. I set it up and took it down around two dozen times, often in bad lighting conditions, and it was effortless and quick. It stood up in the wind, it didn’t leak, it didn’t get too hot or cold, and it didn’t weigh much more than a tent of similar size.

Tent all spread out, ready to inflate.
Tent inflated, with bicycle stowed under attached tarp. That red mark is the taillight, visible through the fabric.
Tent inflated, with bicycle stowed under, from a different angle.
You can see my hack job here, where I ziptied a tarp to the side of the tent. From a distance it almost looks like it was designed this way...
Set up in less than 5 minutes, and ready for snoozles!
Another fine setup, tucked into a corner.
Set up in the corner of the campground, for maximum wind blockage.
Had to pitch on a bit of an incline to avoid the mud, but the night only cost 6 dollars.
The tent, tucked into a nice corner of the Búðardalur campground.
Striking camp. Takes about five minutes!
I do enjoy being able to keep the bike out of the rain.
Snug as a bug.
Gotta have my morning music!

Starting with the tent in a compression sack, I could get it staked down and inflated, then get my gear inside and the bike covered, in about five minutes. I sometimes daydream about going on another bicycle camping trip just so I can use that tent.

Here’s a short list of problems I had on past trips but didn’t have to worry about this time:

  • Non-waterproof bags soak up rainwater which adds a massive amount of dead weight to your bike until they dry.
  • Generators can charge devices but it’s always slower than you’d like. Their true utility is in removing headlights entirely from the power equation, and making it so your headlights never die. This may save your life, several times over.
  • Braking with V-brakes and hitting a pothole at the same time on a heavily loaded bike can crack your rim. With disc brakes this is not an issue.
  • In a high wind, your bike may pitch over while you’re camping. If your bike is covered this isn’t a problem. You can also tie it upright with a guyline and a few stakes. A velcro strap is also handy for holding down one of your brake handles so the bike doesn’t roll. (Don’t use a tightly wound rope or a rubber band, or the high pressure will rapidly stretch your brake cables.)
  • A partially broken rack or a rack with one bolt missing is repairable if you detect it quickly. If you don’t, you will soon discover a completely broken rack, which is not repairable. Inspect your rack at least every other day. If the bolt ends stick out far enough, consider putting lock nuts on them so they don’t unwind on the road.

Clothing

I was also pleased with the clothing I packed for this trip. Here’s a short list:

  • One pair of jeans
  • A swimsuit
  • One pair of sweats
  • Four pieces of underwear
  • Three pairs of wool socks
  • Two short-sleeved shirts
  • Two long-sleeved shirts
  • A thick wool sweater
  • Some pajamas (wool top, cotton pants, thin socks)
  • A Hawaiian shirt (for fun)
  • Two thick bandanas
  • A wool cap
  • A cotton bucket hat

For rain I packed:

  • A pair of waterproof socks
  • “Gore Tex” rain pants
  • A “Gore Tex Pro” jacket
  • A waterproof rain hood
  • Thick waster resistant gloves
  • A waterproof balaclava

When I could find a clothes washer (almost impossible on this trip) I washed everything cold in one load, with the exception of the wool sweater and the rain gear. Usually I had to wash clothes in the shower or the sink of a hotel room, then hang them to dry near the radiator. That worked pretty well in the dry Iceland air. No issues with mold.

And of course I can’t forget the bike, Valoria.

Pausing on an uphill

Yeah, I spend a lot of time spinning on hills rather than powering up them like some cycle tourists do. But the comfort! The panoramas! The safety of never going over the handlebars! The dashboard!

All in all it was a massive success and I’m excited for the next adventure. Onward!

My relationship with food

At the end of my last bike tour, before I went back to my regular environment, I thought about trying to improve my eating habits. What was the right approach to eating? What did I actually believe?

After years of experimentation, conversations, reading countless books and editorials, and often getting contradictory or useless advice, was there anything I had to show for all that research? Anything that still felt like wisdom?

I did a little experiment: I wrote down everything I had at the top of my head about proper eating and exercise, without consulting any references. This was my ground truth.

When and why should I eat?

  • Recognize when you are eating for some other reason
    • Are you bored?
      • Seeking out or eating a meal might just be something you’re doing because you suddenly have free time
    • Are you upset?
      • This is called “eating your feelings”.  First, notice the feeling.  Then find alternatives to eating it.
      • Call someone up, go outside for a moment, sing along to some music. Write. Try meditating.
    • Are you conforming to the situation?
      • Parties, receptions, tastings, movie theaters
        • Is the place itself compelling you to eat food to “complete the experience”?
      • Keeping something in your hand at a social event
        • Are you just getting a drink or a snack so you have something to fill in the gaps between talking?
        • Are you eating because you don’t want to talk, but don’t want to look antisocial?
    • Your stomach has made room
      • There’s a difference between being able to take in more food, and actually needing food.
      • Unless you are exercising heavily, your body will take some time passing through the first stage before it gets to the second.
      • Recognize when you are only in the first stage.
        • It may take some practice and concentration before you learn the difference. You may not have actually been in the second stage for a long time. Weeks or months.
      • Don’t take this as a reason to starve yourself.  When you get to the second stage, eat.
        • Your body needs some input of proteins, vitamins, fiber, and oils, just to keep up with repairs, even if you’re not exercising.
  • Put a hand on your stomach and concentrate.  Is it your stomach and your gut that wants the food?  Or just your mouth, your throat, your head, your hands, your heart?
    • Listen to your gut.  Don’t listen to those other parts.
  • Sorting out when you are eating for other reasons will be one of the hardest things you do.
    • You WILL NEED to find another outlet for those feelings or you WILL fail.
    • Don’t try and solve this problem all at once.  Pay attention to it a little each day.  Build a habit.  Try setting an alarm to check in with yourself.
    • Environmental tweaks beats willpower every single time.

What should I eat?

  • Try to eat a variety
    • Avoid fake variety
      • Entire store aisles can be filled with products in all different kinds of bottles and boxes but they are all made of the same handful of ingredients, processed different ways
      • Read the ingredients for everything you buy.  Think about what balance of carbohydrates to protein you are getting.
    • Once you have variety, try to switch it up, long range
      • Try entirely cutting out a particular vegetable or meat for a long time – a month perhaps – and then adding it back in
      • This is a tactic to keep your immune and digestion systems happy
  • Eat more meals instead of more food
    • Carry a small snack with you
    • Eat slowly.  Enjoy what you are tasting.
    • Restaurant meals can save time and are great for socializing but the proportions are almost always too large.
      • When you go to a restaurant, eat half of what you are served and then immediately ask for the rest to be wrapped up.
      • You may end up eating the other half only 3 hours later.  This is still a victory: You won’t be hungry again for something like of 6 hours total instead of 4.

The details of eating:  Protein, Fiber, Carbohydrates, Fat

  • Protein
    • You need a variety of simple proteins to build your body.  (These simple proteins are also called amino acids.)
      • Not all proteins are simple – some are made of simple ones put together.
      • The body takes in proteins of all kinds and breaks them down into the simple ones it needs.
    • Almost everything you eat that is natural contains some amount of protein.
      • The kinds of simple proteins and their proportions is different from one food to the next.
    • A food that contains all the simple proteins you need, or breaks down into them, is called a “complete protein” food.
      • Meat and eggs and soy are common examples
      • You don’t need to eat a “complete protein” food all the time, or ever.  You can mix and match different foods to cover the complete set of simple proteins you need.
    • Now that you know this, keep it in the back of your head but don’t obsess about it
      • Eating a variety of foods will almost always cover your protein needs, even if you are a vegetarian.
  • Fiber
    • This is structural stuff you can’t digest directly but can help digest other things
      • A.k.a fiber, roughage
    • Think of this like packing material.  You are shipping nutrition from outside your body to your digestive system..  If it’s packaged the right way, it will arrive safely and can be unpacked easily.
      • This can have a big influence, for example the “glycemic index” of carbohydrates (how hard the sugar hits you), or the ability of your body to absorb certain vitamins.
  • Carbohydrates, a.k.a. carbs.
    • There are two measures for carbs
      • How much in raw energy
      • How hard (fast) it hits you
    • Modern life is drowning in carbs
      • How much you need is a factor of two things:
        • The shape you are currently in
        • The amount you are exercising
    • So the thing to think about is how hard it hits you
      • Sugar makes you feel good at first. It’s like dumping fuel into an engine.
      • But the harder it hits you the hotter the engine runs
      • Imagine an engine running too fast, getting too hot, slowly getting warped and cracked.  It will run worse over time.  You will feel this.
        • Some of this slow damage is not reversible!
      • Eventually you will be tempted to feel good by dumping even more sugar into your broken-down engine.  Your body will choke on the fuel.
        • The more you do this, the more your body will choke.
      • Eventually you will develop a condition called “diabetes”
    • Be introspective.  Notice when you are looking for a sugar rush just to feel good. Set a limit:
      • “I will do this once every other day.”  Then once every three.
    • Sugary drinks are the worst.  They always hit the hardest.
      • If you do drink one, drink it very slowly.  Make it last.  Spread out the impact.  This has a much greater effect than you think.
  • Fat (and oil)
    • It is not a perfect analogy, but you can understand fats and oils by thinking about the oil that goes into machines.
      • Machines with very small gears need “high grade” oils that flow more easily and stick less, so they don’t get gummed up.
      • Machines with large gears need “medium grade” oils that stick and flow less easily, so they can counteract the grinding together of parts, and disperse heat.
    • Your body uses both high and medium grade oil.
      • The “high grade” stuff is mostly for your brain and nervous system.
      • The “medium grade” stuff is for your joints and skin, or is just burned as energy.
    • Just like an oil refinery, your body can turn the “high grade” stuff into the “medium grade” stuff, but it can’t go in the opposite direction.  If you don’t put “high grade” stuff in, your body will be forced to run without it, and it won’t run as well.
      • Likewise, if you put in “low grade” oil, your body will try and use that, with limited results. 
    • The highest grade stuff comes from fish, and to a lesser degree certain plants and seeds.
    • The medium and low grade stuff comes from a variety of sources.
    • Most of the oil you will take in will be mixed in with other foods.
      • The vast majority of it will be from fried foods.
      • Unfortunately, almost all fried foods use “low grade” oil.
    • In general, aim for “high grade” stuff when you can get it, and “medium grade” when you can’t.
      • Examples of medium grade, in descending order of preference:  Olive oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, sesame oil, canola oil, etc

Exercise

  • The best way to get in shape is with MILD exercise.
    • Hard exercise is generally only for building muscle mass.
    • Mild exercise is kind to your joints, has plenty of rest breaks, and is consistent.
    • If the mild exercise spontaneously turns into hard exercise but you’re enjoying it, that’s fine.
      •  The best exercise is the kind you don’t notice getting because you’re having fun.
  • Try and do something that fits in with your day.
    • Walk at an unhurried pace instead of driving, if you can.
    • Ride a bike instead of driving, if you can.
    • Do some work or activity that requires a variety of body positions
      • Yoga, gardening, some kinds of housecleaning
    • Play with your dog or cat
      • Fetch, frisbee, go for a run or walk, drag a feather toy around the house on a string
    • Play with your kids or friends
      • Meet up and go bowling.  Go to the playground and climb around with them.
      • Some of the happiest and most consistent exercise is found this way.
  • Gym memberships are a notorious money suck, but they can be helpful for a routine.
    • If you think you need a gym:
      • Find a local gym with an easy commute that fits your day.
      • Go to it and sign up with the specific intention of canceling your membership as soon as they will allow you to without penalty. This is usually one or two months. Set an alarm for this on your phone.
        • Go every other day at most.  Do not go back-to-back days.
      • Go as often as you want for that time.  When the alarm comes up, set it again for another month.
        • Did you get your moneys’ worth this month?  No?  Cancel the membership IMMEDIATELY.
        • This is not a defeat.  The gym is failing to provide you with a service and environment that suits you.
    • Do not believe that you need to punish yourself on heavy loads.
    • You shouldn’t end the visit feeling completely trashed.  That’s for bodybuilder types who want to get big at the expense of their long-term health.
  • If you’re a geeky type, get some hardware to track your progress.
    • An Apple Watch, used or new, series 2 or beyond, is a great companion
    • A fitbit is also handy, or any gps recorder that you can use to build up a record of your progress.

That's 17 bakeries open after 7:00pm, within a 5 minute walk of the apartment.

Leaving on the ferry

Waiting patiently for scraps. My contribution was a piece of bacon saved from dinner.

I shall name her Brunhilde!

Cats know what is best in life!

I said goodbye to Brunhilde, then made my way to the giant boat.

That's the boat that will take me out of Iceland.

The cyclists were all told to wait in a line together, than dispatched all at once into the belly of the beast.

Lots of cars loading up.

Guides with radios and greasy uniforms directed us to a corner.

This guy directed me to the right spot on the deck for bikes.

We tethered our bikes in place with whatever we could find. In a few days, after stopping at the Faroe islands, the area around us would be packed almost solid with truck trailers. The ferry was obviously a major supply route.

Kick-standed, tagged, and roped in place. for the journey.

My first task on the ship was to convert some of my Icelandic Króna (ISK) to Danish Krone (DKK). Good thing the Danes are scrupulous people because it would be easy to scam tourists: One currency is worth about twenty times the other.

The last of my Icelandic coinage.

New country, new money.

Next I had to find a locker to store my stuff. I didn’t feel comfortable carrying it around on my back, and I didn’t want to leave it by my bedside. The lockers were coin operated and cost the equivalent of about two dollars every time you opened one. At least they were spacious.

Everything you need to carry around, when you have a locker: Your badge, the locker key, and enough coins to open it six more times.

Plenty of room to store all the things I'll need, since I can't access my bike.

About 2/3 of the lockers had keys broken off in them. The work of some disgruntled passenger.

Finally found one with a usable key. Accidentally turned it the wrong way after I put in the first coin. Two bucks wasted...

The sleeping area was more “hostel” than the hostel I’d just left. All five of my bunkmates were men, since the rooms were split by gender for safety purposes. (Nevertheless, on day two of the trip, a woman began sleeping in one of the bunks, intertwined with her lover. Exceptions to the rule!)

Heavy swinging doors so people didn't have to constantly fumble with noisy handles.

It was only bearable because everyone was as quiet as possible.

Yeah, it was as cramped as it looks.

I prepared my bed and locked up most of my gear, then went upstairs and had my first open-faced Danish sandwich. I ate it with a knife and fork like a proper gentleman, as my mother taught me!

Eating my first open-faced sandwich with a knife and fork, like a civilized person.

The boat got underway and Iceland began to slide past the window, then move to the horizon. I wandered around the ship for a while and did some more writing.

Question:
Do you feel like the physical end of the trip coincided with some emotional or mental resolutions?
Answer:
In the movie version, of course it would. But real life is messier than that…

Yeah — in the movie, I would suddenly reach a whole pile of amazing conclusions in my head just a day or two before closing the lid on the bicycle box and riding the shuttle to the airport for the flight home. Then I’d be looking out the window of the plane, all smiling and fulfilled, as credits began to roll up the side of the sky.

Reality didn’t have such a great sense of timing. But about 3/4 of the way through the ride I did get to a weird place in my head, and I think the best way to describe it is with a metaphor about travel:

In the time before by decision to go on this journey, there had been a giant slow-moving explosion in my emotional landscape. When I pedaled away from civilization – probably best identified as the city of Reykjavik – I was also pedaling away from the center of that explosion — and as I moved along, I found pieces.

Some of those pieces were twisted and unrecognizable at first, but clearly part of myself, so I picked them up and carried them.  Then there were parts that I found sitting on undisturbed ground, obscured by weeds. They had been discarded before the explosion, when I was going somewhere else.  I picked those up too.

Every night I would arrange them around me and try to make them fit together. Hammer at a few of them. Some I connected with and took into myself. I found my love of in-depth conversation; I found my joy at open spaces and quiet presence in them; I found my curiosity of the natural world.  (That piece was fully intact, and I realized I’d dropped it quite a long time ago when I stopped pushing to go on nature-oriented trips with my ex.)

I found my enthusiasm for writing.  I found pieces of my ability to stand up for what I needed. Somewhere around the crossing to Flatey Island I had a little epiphany that I wrote down in one short sentence: There is often a difference between what I want, and what other people want me to want, and I’m tired of ignoring the first in favor of the second. Even if it would make someone really happy for me to want or like or care about something, if I don’t feel that way, I really shouldn’t defer to their happiness.

I think my struggle with that has been a struggle with confrontation, and with the part of me that wants to please the people around me. I’m very fortunate to have the time and independence to work on it; to even have the choice, instead of circumstances making it for me.

I saw this view a lot.

Over the next couple of days I would often find myself sitting on the floor of the locker room, down in the depths of the ship, listening to the throbbing of the engine. It was the only place anywhere that had a door I could close, allowing me to be entirely alone for extended periods of time. I was still too used to the wilderness.