Gardens, Towers, and Crowds

An ex of mine (who shall remain nameless because she was rather unkind) once said, “Being in Paris consists of a lot of ‘seeing of beauty.'” Since this was my first non-work day in the city, it was time to go do some of that!

I stripped all my luggage off the bike, leaving one bag with the camera in it. Everything else could stay locked behind this insane apartment door:

Out in the chaos of people, I made for Seine, the river at the center of the city.

Hmm what’s this pokey thing? It looks important.
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Hmm what’s this pokey thing? It looks important.

Getting closer!
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Getting closer!

I got a recommendation from friend Cara to try the hot chocolate at Angelina. It looked amazing but there was an equally amazing line, and the wait for a table was 70 minutes. So I hopped across the street to Tuileries Garden, and did some “seeing of beauty” instead.

Hangin’ out in the park.
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Hangin’ out in the park.

Want to sail a tiny boat? Six dollars please.
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Want to sail a tiny boat? Six dollars please.

Valiantly trying to shade himself!
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Valiantly trying to shade himself!

Shading himself would be easier if he wasn’t missing a hand.
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Shading himself would be easier if he wasn’t missing a hand.

Note the I.D. tag on the crow.
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Note the I.D. tag on the crow.

Busy day in the park.
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Busy day in the park.

The joint’s jumpin’!
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The joint’s jumpin’!

It’s basically never any less crowded than this. Do you like Paris? So do two million other people.
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It’s basically never any less crowded than this. Do you like Paris? So do two million other people.

Flowers!
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Flowers!

This park is rather long. Note the tourist dragging his suitcase. Common thing: Pack up to leave your hotel room, then roll around for the day until you get on a train in the evening.
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This park is rather long. Note the tourist dragging his suitcase. Common thing: Pack up to leave your hotel room, then roll around for the day until you get on a train in the evening.

My first glimpse of The Tower.
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My first glimpse of The Tower.

I wandered the gardens with my “courtyard” playlist adding to the atmosphere — mostly stuff by Harold Budd and Stephan Micus, with the Coil album “The Agelic Conversation” mixed in.

I passed two large fountains ringed with chairs, and every chair was occupied, with crowds milling around them. There were at least three cafes partially under shade, and each had a line about 20 people deep. It was more like being in the middle of a farmers market than being in a park. Perhaps it’s some kind of post-COVID travel boom, but it really feels excessive, like, how do the actual residents of Paris even put up with this?

I also saw people – I couldn’t tell if they were locals or tourists – sitting with their feet deliberately across a second chair just to get a little more comfortable, even though literally hundreds of people, including elderly, were all around them and any one of them would have probably sat down given the chance. I was thinking, “Is this Parisians saying ‘screw you’ to the tourists, or is this tourists saying ‘screw you’ to each other? Maybe both…”

When I reached the other side, it was time to launch myself into the streets again to find that big pokey-uppey thing everyone’s heard about:

The essential tourist shot!
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The essential tourist shot!

There is a lot of surveillance going on.
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There is a lot of surveillance going on.

Cool! Now if someone dares me to prove that I’ve seen the pokey-uppey thing, I can show them this picture, which looks totally fake and exactly like all the other ones. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

Meandering back to the north, I encountered a protest in progress.

Local protestors.
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Local protestors.

The chant leader.
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The chant leader.

Résistance! Just, generally!
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Résistance! Just, generally!

Truth, light, faith, and general awesomeness!
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Truth, light, faith, and general awesomeness!

This is a march about … Hmm. About apparent side-effects from the COVID-19 vaccine? What?
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This is a march about … Hmm. About apparent side-effects from the COVID-19 vaccine? What?

Several people were carrying anti-COVID-vaccine signs, but they were mixed with others I couldn’t parse. To be honest, I wasn’t sure what the protest was about. But it was very French.

After that, I found some more buildings to stand in front of:

Whoever’s buried here must be, like, important and stuff!
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Whoever’s buried here must be, like, important and stuff!

Many many churches around here.
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Many many churches around here.

Then I dodged into another groovy garden (Jardin du Luxembourg) full of stoic statues, plus one out-of-place dude on a laptop.

“I’ll meet you beneath the sprite selling masks at 4:00.”
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“I’ll meet you beneath the sprite selling masks at 4:00.”

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It’s enough to make one very thoughtful indeed.
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It’s enough to make one very thoughtful indeed.

Hey is anybody missing a face?
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Hey is anybody missing a face?

Welcome to the park. It’s like waiting for a multi-day open-air concert to start, except it never does.
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Welcome to the park. It’s like waiting for a multi-day open-air concert to start, except it never does.

The flowers are lovely though!
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The flowers are lovely though!

You can sail boats here too!
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You can sail boats here too!

One lone geek messing with his laptop. He looks out of place here.
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One lone geek messing with his laptop. He looks out of place here.

Sprites have tails.
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Sprites have tails.

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Whenever I step out, I bring an angel along to keep my drapes from falling off.
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Whenever I step out, I bring an angel along to keep my drapes from falling off.

Some time after that I saw this poster on a wall, and was intrigued. With a little help from my phone I realized it was a concert happening the very next day, and I could still buy a ticket for it.

Hmm what’s this all about?
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Hmm what’s this all about?

Aha, thank you, translation app!
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Aha, thank you, translation app!

Back in 1992 I was gifted a CD with Mozart’s Requiem, and I played the heck out of it. It fed into my lifelong obsession with music. It’s one of the most popular pieces of “classical” music in the world, and for good reason.

Another afternoon, another bakery!
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Another afternoon, another bakery!

Any time is a good time for quiche.
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Any time is a good time for quiche.

I paused my random bicycling to eat another decadent snack, and try to buy a ticket with my phone. The interface was just a little bit broken. Perhaps that’s why there were still tickets!

I decided to try again with my laptop in the evening. But first: Jardin des Plantes for a brief moment, a little pause by La Fontaine Cuvier, and then a northward course past Notre-Dame Cathedral (sadly under repair).

This lion appears to be sniffing a half-buried foot, while a tourist takes a picture of his butt. PARIS!
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This lion appears to be sniffing a half-buried foot, while a tourist takes a picture of his butt. PARIS!

It’s technically a labyrinth, but the locals got so impatient that they made several dozen “short-cuts”.
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It’s technically a labyrinth, but the locals got so impatient that they made several dozen “short-cuts”.

Enjoyin’ the garden o’ plants.
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Enjoyin’ the garden o’ plants.

There’s a cat exposition, but really, that’s taking place all over the city, day or night.
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There’s a cat exposition, but really, that’s taking place all over the city, day or night.

Not actually venom.
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Not actually venom.

Pigeons and gators aren’t really friends.
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Pigeons and gators aren’t really friends.

Not the tastiest looking fish.
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Not the tastiest looking fish.

Apparently the olympics are happening here soon.
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Apparently the olympics are happening here soon.

This looks like a great spot. FOR ME TO POOP ON.
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This looks like a great spot. FOR ME TO POOP ON.

Time, time, who’s got the time? Surely one of you soldiers, saints, or pixies can read this thing…
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Time, time, who’s got the time? Surely one of you soldiers, saints, or pixies can read this thing…

Almost nothing in Paris is shorter than about six floors, unless it’s a garden.
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Almost nothing in Paris is shorter than about six floors, unless it’s a garden.

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We know they’re adorable, but they’re kinda causing problems, so quit leaving your food everywhere, huh?
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We know they’re adorable, but they’re kinda causing problems, so quit leaving your food everywhere, huh?

One of the things I wanted to see was the Labyrinthe du Jardin des Plantes. Not much of a puzzle, but a refreshing walk:

I was starting to run out of daylight, but there was one more garden I could visit on my way to the apartment: Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, commissioned by Henri IV in 1612.

Everyone enjoys a good tinkle.
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Everyone enjoys a good tinkle.

When you’re pressed for time because there are so many things to see, and one of those places is a gorgeous park that’s been sitting around being gorgeous for 400 years, and one of the best ways to enjoy a park is to stretch out and read a book for the whole afternoon, but it’s already evening, what can you do?

All I could do was stroll around and take a few photos, and imagine that I’d been lounging on the grass all day.

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There’s a beautiful little park here, somewhere, under all these people.
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There’s a beautiful little park here, somewhere, under all these people.

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Note to self: Check out this place, some time when I can fit more baked goods into my stomach:

The French BASTARDS make decent bread!
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The French BASTARDS make decent bread!

Back in the apartment, I managed to buy a ticket for the concert. Tomorrow would be another fine day.

First Day Exploring Paris

I heard Nick leaving in the middle of the night, to catch his flight down to Portugal. The bike would be staying here until our paths crossed again in a few weeks for the journey to Edinburgh.

I fell back asleep and brought my total to 7 hours. Not bad. When I sat up and realized the sink and bathroom were up two sets of stairs, I decided I would sleep in the little upstairs room for the rest of my stay. I didn’t need all this mattress.

I took my first shower, and discovered that the bathtub was made of plastic and not anchored to the floor, so it tipped alarmingly when I reached for a towel.  The curtain didn’t go all the way around, so the floor got wet. That was fine because the floor was a shower stall: The drain of the bathtub went into a hose, which went into a shower drain in the corner.

Why does this AirBnB have so many plants to take care of?
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Why does this AirBnB have so many plants to take care of?

A plastic tub shoved into the shower stall. Classy.
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A plastic tub shoved into the shower stall. Classy.

It was pretty funny. I’d been in some really janky places all over America, and yet I’d never used a setup this janky. Even the bare cement showers in RV parks usually compensated for their brutalist vibe by being spacious. It was a fact I would be learning repeatedly: Physical space is clearly the most expensive commodity in Paris.

I also noticed a sign by the dishwasher that I’d never seen before, even in the most uptight AirBnB units of Iceland or New Zealand:

Why leave high-maintenance silverware in a flat you’re renting out to people on a daily basis? This makes no sense.
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Why leave high-maintenance silverware in a flat you’re renting out to people on a daily basis? This makes no sense.

This little apartment generates something like five grand a month for these people. What do they care if the silverware gets tarnished? Shouldn’t grandma’s fine utensils be somewhere else?

I shrugged. It’s not like I would be doing any cooking in this place more elaborate than heating up bread. Time to go see the city!

Heading out for some breakfast.
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Heading out for some breakfast.

I rode directly down to Ten Belles, since it was on my “must try” list, but it was exploding with people. There was one tiny free table and a long line out the door. I picked streets at random and wound up near the canal again. On the other side was a café named “Residence Kann” that looked interesting, and not too crowded.  They advertised a “mochacchino,” which turned out to be a lot like the mocha from Bluebottle back home. Very foamy and smooth, but with enough chocolate to make it a “real” mocha.

I decided I would eat at a different café at least once every day, and always order a mocha or the closest equivalent, so I could rank them all against my very severe and subjective 1 to 10 Worldwide Mocha Ranking Scale. “Residence Kann” got a respectable 7.5! They also served avocado toast, which is catnip to us middle-class wankers, so I got some.

This was the first place where I saw little signs on the tables indicating “no laptops”. I hadn’t seen any Parisians with laptops anywhere yet, so perhaps this was a city-wide custom and the signs are for the crude tourists (like me) to get a clue.

What? NO LAPTOPS? Lame.
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What? NO LAPTOPS? Lame.

Computers not allowed on WEEK-END, ya dot-com wankers!
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Computers not allowed on WEEK-END, ya dot-com wankers!

Computers are TOLERATED for a certain time. Otherwise, we Parisians hate you remote-working yahoos. Get out!
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Computers are TOLERATED for a certain time. Otherwise, we Parisians hate you remote-working yahoos. Get out!

I wondered if it’s also considered insulting to the waitstaff to be sitting there doing the thing that makes you a much higher wage than they do, while they bring you food and wipe up your crumbs. But surely being a waiter in Paris earns a good wage?

Also, I wondered if a similar anti-laptop rebellion was coming to San Francisco and New York…  If it wasn’t rolling in already.  Back home I wasn’t seeing “no laptop” signs directly on tables yet, though I was seeing polite signs on walls asking that people limit their computer time to an hour or so. Maybe the Bay Area is too aware that people on laptops account for at least half the money being made there, and no one wants to upset them…?

Well, the cafe is nice even if they don’t like laptop users.
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Well, the cafe is nice even if they don’t like laptop users.

I sipped my drink and felt fancy, and tried to conjure up a first impression of Paris, or at least this region of it. It was far more cramped and busy than I was expecting. The press of people was constant, and could easily get overwhelming. The importance of open spaces like the canals and gardens felt very clear to me.

I remembered reading somewhere that people often experience a kind of emotional shock, some time in the first few days, when they realize that the Paris they’re walking around is extremely different from the Paris they imagined. A depression sets in; what one might even call … ennui, and it lingers until they surrender, and adapt to the city on its own terms. Perhaps I was due for that kind of emotional journey in a few days.

I did a little reading, and learned some statistics:

2 million people live in the city of Paris. Somewhere between 7 and 13 million people live in the “metropolitan area” of Paris, depending on how you slice it. 68 million people live in all of France. So, as much as one fifth of all French people live in or around Paris. That’s a massively influential city.

For comparison: 8.5 million people live in the city of New York, while the entire state of New York has 20 million people in it. So if you’re “a New Yorker”, one third of the time that means you’re living in the city itself. This assumption by outsiders is so strong that people have to say they’re from “New York state”, just to make it clear that they’re not living in the city. Along the same lines, it would be plausible to change the name of Paris to “France City,” because when travelers think of France, they think of Paris. Meanwhile, four fifths of French people would have to start pointing out that they’re from “France THE COUNTRY, you dang tourist! Don’t lump me in with those urban jerks!”

I’m sure they would love that…

What’s intriguing to me is that, bustling as it is, Paris used to be much more populated, until the mid-20th-century when huge amounts of people migrated outward due to enhancements in rail and auto travel, and created massive suburbs.  Only in the tail end of the 20th century has the population begun to move inward again.

I took a scroll through the history of Paris, and found an epic of war and revolution going back many hundreds of years, casting a long shadow, even over the World Wars. It was one bloody synthesis of king and church after another for 800 years until the French Revolution, then a bloody sequel in the form of the Napoleonic empire, then a confusing run of coup d’états and collapsed governments, with modern reforms and counter-reforms beginning some time after World War II and continuing through the century.

Thinking about this, and based on what I was seeing Parisians do around me just with regard to things like crosswalks, public gatherings, demonstrations, and trespassing, I concluded that the French must have a strong sense of independence from their government, and the laws and order it tries to impose. It’s truly an inspiration for the American attitude that if a law does not promote the common good, the law should be changed.  Or in the case of Parisians, the law should be ignored, because the whole damn government is suspect, and may be collapsing some time in the near future anyway.

While I was musing over this, I had an interesting side-thought: Many of my fellow Americans have a strong aversion to talking about “politics” in public, or even in private when they’re not among friends. I suddenly had two questions about that. First: Why this aversion? And second: What does it even mean, to separate “politics” as a subject out from everything else?

As I packed up my stuff in the café and headed for my bike and another random ride around the city, I tried to conjure a few answers.

I figured that Americans try to avoid “politics” because it can cause friction among people who would otherwise just get along with the business of economic exchange, and relating to each other in their immediate context, e.g. at a baseball game or while standing in line at a supermarket. And Americans want to get business done, because they want to survive.

Put another way: There’s a subconscious feeling that peaceful coexistence with neighbors who disagree with you is more important than agreeing on how your government should be run, because you and your neighbor are right here face-to-face, and the government is way over there, potentially in another state, potentially thousands of miles away. This feeling might actually be the reason America still exists as a single country at this point. But what is this “politics” that people are so averse to discussing? My take was, it seems to be something encompassed by “policy” but actually more specific: “Politics” to the American seems to be about the people in government, and the political parties they belong to, and what those people and parties are like, or what they endorse.

For example, the regulation of America’s border with Mexico is certainly a political subject, and people will discuss that – cautiously – while considering details like our shared sense of responsibility to take in refugees, our collective status as a nation of migrants, our desire for respect of the rule of law, and our desire to prevent human trafficking and the movement of narcotics. But, statements like “The Democrats want lawless chaos instead of a border!” or “The Republicans want to separate migrant babies from parents!” … That’s what we call “politics.”

There are a lot of Americans talking “politics” online, on television, on radio… But there are also a lot more Americans who find it aggravating and would rather talk policy. Sadly, those discussions don’t drive mouse-clicks, finger-pokes, and ad revenue dollars, so it’s easy to get confused about whether they exist at all. At the same time, a lot of Americans have the luxury of not engaging with politics – or even policy – at all, because they do not belong to one of the sub-groups that the law is currently victimizing in some way. E.g. migrants, users of illegal drugs, pregnant women looking for medical care, people with non-Christian religious practices, and so on. So from one perspective, these people create stability, which is great … but from another, they create complacency, which is infuriating … and they need to be reached and told what their tax dollars are doing to other people.

Well, that was my quick packing-the-bike take on it, anyway. Next stop: Caféinoman, for a “detox juice blend” and a muffin.  (I couldn’t handle any more coffee.) They were both pretty good!

Looking around, I got the sense that most of the dozen-or-so people in the café were fellow tourists. I wondered if I would ever get a clear picture of what Parisians are like, separate from tourists. Probably not. I mean, if you took all the bacteria out of a human body – benevolent or otherwise – would that give you a “clear picture” of the immune system?

Browsing the map, I decided to check out “Jules Verne Park,” because it sounded cool. I dropped my muffin in the street as I was riding along.  Dangit! Well, food for the rats I guess.

“Jules Verne Park” turned out to be a kid’s play park, packed full of tiny humans and larger humans chasing them or sitting around looking exhausted. Not what I was hoping for. The noise made me crave a quiet space, so I rode back to the apartment, and used the remaining hour before my first work meeting to sort photos.

Three hours later the meetings were done and I’d written everything useful into a page of notes, so I walked around the corner to the café Nick and I had gone to, and ordered their all-day brunch. I chatted with folks on the phone and did more snacking – what a life I lead! – then strolled to the apartment and pitched myself into the upstairs bed. My brain was full of French history, computer code, and the roar of a thousand conversations that had pressed in around me all day.

Would this be the Paris routine for me? Cafés, history, parks, work, and bicycling? If so, I’ll take it!

Awful Train To Amazing City

When we were going along the Moselle river back in Germany, Nick and I spent a while talking back and forth in badly accented English of various flavors, complaining about how awful Americans are, and how badly Americans do everything. I played the Frenchman, saying stuff like, “Look at zese passenger trains. Zey are so much better than ze stupid American ones. Zey are on time, and zey don’t smell of piss and hotdogs.”

Nick came back with, “Yah, in Austria de trains have actual room, you know? You can put your feet up. But we don’t; ya? Because ve are not de tasteless savages like de Americans. In der flip-flops und baseball hats.”

Well, this morning we boarded our first French train, out of Luxembourg.

Crammed our piles of stuff onto the terribly designed French trains, and we’re on our way…
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Crammed our piles of stuff onto the terribly designed French trains, and we’re on our way…

Nick managed to get about half an hour of napping, until a German man wandered into the train car talking loudly on his phone. The man paced the aisle and ranted, getting more and more upset, then disconnected the call and left through the sliding door with a murderous expression.

Nick was not pleased.

It’s so gauche to complain on vacation. But from a bike tourist perspective, I do have a few minor complaints to air about the French trains. For one, they sold me tickets with a six-minute transfer time, to get between two trains that arrived at opposite ends of a massive station, and our train pulled in late. Even without two loaded bicycles, we would have needed to move at a dead run, threading through crowds.

When we missed that connection, the ticket counter attendant said that missing the train was “our fault” and that the best they could do was put %15 of the ticket price towards later tickets. So I had to pay another $140 for failing to get across the platform at unsafe speed.

(The elevators were so small we had to stand the bikes vertically and go one at a time. The elevators were also very slow. This is a concern mostly for bicycle tourists like us, but also, woe betide you if you’re in a wheelchair and the person pushing it isn’t willing to sit on your lap for the ride to the platform.)

When I asked them which platform the next train would arrive on so I could be prepared, they said they did not know, and had no way of knowing until 20 minutes before the train was due to depart.  Not when it arrived … when it departed.

When that time comes due, they start flashing the name and platform of the train on the big electronic signs, including the one in the lobby. At that moment, several hundred people suddenly stand up and begin shoving themselves and their luggage down the hall. The only reason I can think of for doing it this way is so people waiting for a train don’t wait “too close” to the designated platform and interfere with people catching trains before them. … But if they knew the time and platform in advance, with enough confidence that they could time their walk to the platform, most people wouldn’t do that. They’d sit in the waiting area where there are comfortable benches.

The train was ten minutes late, cutting ten minutes off the time it would linger before departure.  Nick and I had to wait with our loaded bikes in the main hall, staring at the departure screen, waiting for it to update and show the platform, so we could dash for the correct elevators and ride them up.

When we got to the train we had to run the bikes to the far end of it, to a car with no external labeling indicating it conveyed bikes.  The bike area inside was up two steps, around a sharp bend, behind a completely useless sliding door that kept closing on the bikes as we were moving them … and then up two more steps. And again, at the same time, if you’re in a wheelchair or not entirely able in some other way, the French train system says, screw you.

Traveling on the Belgian trains was alright; traveling on the German trains was a pleasure.  The French train system is a dumpster fire. Not the trains; the train system. Even the lowly American train stations back home – and the subways, and the bus terminals – can tell you what platform each one will be arriving at, with near-realtime accuracy.

Aaaaanyway…

When Nick and I emerged from the train station with our bikes, we were in Paris, and it was instant chaos. We dropped into the nearest bike lane and zig-zagged through city streets, tumbling in the chaos of cars and people and bikes and scooters all fighting for gaps.  It was pretty intense, after polite Luxembourg.  Nick performed quite well in it, saying “my rides in Oakland prepared me for this.” We got lots of interested looks and comments from even the jaded Parisians about the bikes we were riding.

This is the face you make when you’ve survived your first ride through Paris bicycle lanes.
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This is the face you make when you’ve survived your first ride through Paris bicycle lanes.

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Nifty bridges over the canal.
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Nifty bridges over the canal.

The first of many interesting bicycle situations we’ll see in this city.
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The first of many interesting bicycle situations we’ll see in this city.

WE ARE DATA.
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WE ARE DATA.

I made a few wrong turns just trying to go with the flow of traffic and not be crushed, but we found the apartment in due course.

Got WIFI here, so time to unwind.
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Got WIFI here, so time to unwind.

We had to pass through two security gates and open an apartment door that was built stronger than the door to any other apartment I’d ever stayed in. It was like entering a vault. We pulled the bags off both bikes to fit them through doorway.

I settled in with the computer, working mostly on photos, and Nick laid down for a few minutes.  Then we got up and went searching for food.

CHEZ PRUNE? We must eat here at some point.
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CHEZ PRUNE? We must eat here at some point.

We passed several restaurants and cafes, jam-packed with talking people, almost all of them smoking with one hand and drinking with the other.  The noise of conversation even outdoors was jarring.

We arrived at a little cafe I’d picked randomly on the map, and the head waiter took our orders.  He debated with his companion, who was from Argentina, what the definition of “Argentina spiciness” was, but couldn’t find an English translation. We rolled the dice.

First French meal, at a restaurant a few blocks away.
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First French meal, at a restaurant a few blocks away.

Chomp chomp!
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Chomp chomp!

The meal was tasty but not quite filling. I suggested that we get right up and go looking for another, and Nick readily agreed.

He led the way, picking streets at random.  I vetoed a couple of spots that looked too expensive or too boring. We eventually wandered into a restaurant facing an extremely busy traffic loop running around a square, and went inside because it was a little bit chilly in our cycling clothes. The big windows gave an easy view of all the passing cyclists, and I schemed about coming back some later day with the camera to make an anonymous gallery of them.

I ordered a bolognese and ate about half of it.  It was very heavy.  Nick ordered honey-glazed salmon which was cooked perfectly, and I stole some.

Sus.
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Sus.

After that we went walking again, generally in the direction of the apartment.

Inside, Nick laid down for a while again, then got up and exploded his luggage and re-configured it into a smaller version, using one of my stripped-down bike bags as a carry-on for the plane flight he was going to be taking soon.

We were both up until about 2:00am, with him organizing luggage and me sorting photos.  There were a lot of them to sort… About 1500.

The Moselle meets the Rhine

Well, it’s not a great round of sleep, but it’ll have to do.
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Well, it’s not a great round of sleep, but it’ll have to do.

A pretty bad night according to my fancy watch. My sleep apnea mouth insert was not working right. Bah!

Reading the morning memes.
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Reading the morning memes.

I packed up my stuff relatively quickly, though I had to unroll the tent again because I accidentally wrapped my headphones and GPS tracker inside it.  Nick had commandeered one of my folding chairs and was browsing memes while slowly waking up. He looked so comfortable I decided I would leave him be and go take a shower.

Oh boy, shower time… Looks a bit grody… Here we go.
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Oh boy, shower time… Looks a bit grody… Here we go.

I’m keeping these on, thanks.
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I’m keeping these on, thanks.

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I wheeled the bike over to the restaurant just in case, but it was closed. The shower was alarmingly grody, so I changed out of my clothes while standing in my biking sandals and showered with them on. Still way better than no shower at all!

Nick packed up, and on we went.

Putting the bike shoes back on.
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Putting the bike shoes back on.

As a Californian, I don’t think I’ll ever get used to how many brick arches there are around here.
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As a Californian, I don’t think I’ll ever get used to how many brick arches there are around here.

I bet this town has exactly the right number of pets.
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I bet this town has exactly the right number of pets.

*slurp*
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*slurp*

I wonder if that’s what the baker actually looks like?
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I wonder if that’s what the baker actually looks like?

We found a bakery groovy bakery in the next town, and sat down to a solid breakfast.

Place the money on the right, get the snacks on the left!
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Place the money on the right, get the snacks on the left!

Gotta keep the butter cool.
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Gotta keep the butter cool.

Not bad for an all-you-can-eat ten dollar breakfast.
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Not bad for an all-you-can-eat ten dollar breakfast.

Just as we were starting to chomp, Nick realized he’d forgotten his battery back at the campsite, so I spent some time at looking at train schedules and moving photos around.

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So this is what that kind of wall looks like when it hasn’t been maintained for a couple dozen years. Hmmm.
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So this is what that kind of wall looks like when it hasn’t been maintained for a couple dozen years. Hmmm.

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After that we rode along the riverbank, absorbing the pleasant air and sun.

A few hours later we stopped for drinks at a roadside restaurant, just because we could. I got hot chocolate and he got a coffee drink.

We talked a lot about urban planning, about the paranoia his parents had about strangers and getting lost that was imposed on them by the suburban life, about how different it was when I was a kid.  We tried to think of ways we could adapt urban environments, so they were better for families, and turned people away from the madness of car-based environments.

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Remember back in the day when they would haul cargo upriver by tethering it to teams of horses? (Me neither.)
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Remember back in the day when they would haul cargo upriver by tethering it to teams of horses? (Me neither.)

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It’s hard to tell what’s going on here because it’s a bit rusted, but it looks like … that king is stabbing infants with the end of his sword…?
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It’s hard to tell what’s going on here because it’s a bit rusted, but it looks like … that king is stabbing infants with the end of his sword…?

Arrr the Monk Wino and Captain Craggy, and their friend … Mr. Duck.
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Arrr the Monk Wino and Captain Craggy, and their friend … Mr. Duck.

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We pedaled on, drifting apart and then back again. Soon we threaded into Koblenz, large town sitting at the juncture of the Moselle and Rhine rivers, and stopped in a plaza. There we found a tall monument depicting the history of the region.

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Nearby was a pedestal with a section-by-section breakdown:

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Contemplating such a massive span of time, and scraps of earlier conversations, Nick sat down to work through some things in his head. I walked around and gazed at the people and ate a snack.

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From there we squiggled a bit farther north and found some other interesting sculpture, eventually reaching a park right at the confluence of the rivers, with an enormous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm overlooking the slowly churning water.

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Tourists, musicians, and locals wandered around.

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It was a nice day for lingering, but we did have more ground to cover. We rode west, following the Moselle. Going was very, very slightly tougher because now we were headed upriver instead of down.

We stopped at a greek cafe up a hill, next to a train station.  I got gyros and wolfed them down, and Nick got some tortellini which he ate at a more sensible pace.  I planned a train ride for tomorrow to make up for lost time.

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As we were readying the bikes, I noticed a few tiny bricks set into the street.

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On closer inspection I got a chilling reminder of what had happened here before, and during, World War II.

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How do you make amends, as a government or a nation, for an act of murder that was so complete that there is no family, even extended family, left to return stolen property to? When they’re dead, and the people who killed them are dead, and the officials and the lawmakers who were “just following orders” are dead by firing squad or rotting in prison, and your bombed-out, ruined country is now one enormous crime scene, how do you set it right?

I don’t know. These little bricks are obviously no compensation. I’ve done a fair amount of reading about what happened on the path to World War II and how it played out, but not much on what the Germans did afterward…

I made a note to do that, then dragged my mind back to the present, and the fine weather. The steep vineyards along the river were ridiculously pretty.

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It felt like a privilege to be here, during a narrow slice of history where things are relatively peaceful.

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As I passed through a quiet intersection I heard a kid’s voice coming from a side yard.  He said “Alahoo Akbar, reep reep, Alahoo Ahhkbarr,” and made a bunch of snorting noises like a pig.  I was confused, then suddenly realized he was saying this at me, because he saw I was wearing a bandana, and decided that it must be some kind of keffiyeh under my bike helmet, and was mocking me with a religious phrase he connected to them.

I felt quite incredibly offended on behalf of everyone in the Middle East, and turned the bike around slowly, and rolled back by the yard.  The kid who’d made the noises was still muttering nonsense to himself and kicking a soccer ball against the gate.  I didn’t say anything, but grinned rather intensely at him, and when he saw me he jerked back, then stiffly gathered his ball and about-faced to walk to his friend at the far end of the yard.  If I’d had more forethought I would have said something sarcastic to him in English.  Hopefully I at least surprised some caution into the little shithead.

The incident was unsettling, and made me very thoughtful about the degree to which I was able to assume that the people around me in this foreign country meant me no harm.  I mean, I’d known going in that I already looked very German, so as long as I didn’t open my mouth I could blend in; to the degree that a dude riding a recumbent festooned with too many bags could blend in anywhere.  It honestly never occurred to me that they might also assume I was Middle Eastern because of my freaking bandana, which is, okay, an exceptionally thick white cotton cloth with an elaborate pattern on it in bright red ink, but generally smaller than any keffiyeh.  Were Germans looking at me with some suspicion because of that?  Was the shitty rambling of this little kid just an overt sign of an internal bigotry churning below the surface of the adult minds all around me?

I passed out of the town and down a steep hill, then zig-zagged to the campsite.  The woman at the booth spoke broken English and was very friendly, though I also detected a strange note of nervousness in her demeanor, and I couldn’t help thinking it was the bandana again.  It probably wasn’t.  But the sense of discontent lingered with me.

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I looked for Nick on my map and saw that he’d blown past the campsite.  I called him and told him to read his texts, which he did.  He turned right around.  “Dang, I was just cruising along, feeling good.  I could have gone a bunch more miles today I think.”

I ordered a giant glass of ice with tapwater in it, and they brought it to me, plus a refill.  For that I was charged six dollars.  Nick hemmed and hawed over the menu and eventually chose a rhubarb soda, which tasted a bit like a carbonated sports drink but came in a very nice tall glass.

We chatted about cultural differences, and the presence of so much designer label clothing around us.  Nick pointed out that it was very expensive to get a drivers license in Germany.  I opined that it was typical of Europe to make rules designed specifically to shut out the lower classes, as if they weren’t allowed to exist.  I came to Germany expecting to find everything either the same as or better than the United States.  Better land, better customs, better laws…  Instead I’m finding that it’s a mixed bag, and some of the stuff they do seems outright crazy.  I thought crazy was a mode that belonged only to Americans.

We found an open patch and set up our tents, then I bought more laundry tokens in the restaurant.

Two 7-minute showers and two washing machine runs.
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Two 7-minute showers and two washing machine runs.

The majestic entrance to the showers and toilets. So grand!
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The majestic entrance to the showers and toilets. So grand!

Pssst HEY KID, wanna buy a smoke?
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Pssst HEY KID, wanna buy a smoke?

We loaded laundry into two machines.  Then we sat around organizing the campsite for a bit, then just reading our devices. One of the dryers ate two of my coins, so we consolidated. 

Evening at the campsite.
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Evening at the campsite.

By the time our laundry was done it was fully night, and we snuggled in, listening to the occasional bird calls from the swampy inlet on the far side of our little peninsula. It felt a bit like summer camp. Tomorrow we would wake up and go climbing around on ropes, and decorate pinecones to look like Mr. Potato Head, then have a sing-along around the fire.

Meeting The Rhine

Hey, fancy hotel people: Maybe you should redesign your rooms instead of hanging these dumb advisory tags?
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Hey, fancy hotel people: Maybe you should redesign your rooms instead of hanging these dumb advisory tags?

Bit awkward but we managed it.
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Bit awkward but we managed it.

Time to explore, with an appropriately themed t-shirt.
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Time to explore, with an appropriately themed t-shirt.

Nick standing in the spot where his grandpa did about a quarter century ago.
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Nick standing in the spot where his grandpa did about a quarter century ago.

Standing in the spot where dad did, about a quarter century ago.
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Standing in the spot where dad did, about a quarter century ago.

Little houses in a little house shop, in a house that looks like the little houses!
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Little houses in a little house shop, in a house that looks like the little houses!

Don’t ask me. It’s cute though.
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Don’t ask me. It’s cute though.

A cute alleyway! Nick insisted we get a photo.
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A cute alleyway! Nick insisted we get a photo.

Nick sitting where his grandpa sat a quarter century ago.
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Nick sitting where his grandpa sat a quarter century ago.

The David And Goliath fountain. Sitting where Dad sat about a quarter centurty ago.
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The David And Goliath fountain. Sitting where Dad sat about a quarter centurty ago.

A labor union protest.
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A labor union protest.

These little cobbled town square areas are a nice place to take a breath during a cross-town ride.
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These little cobbled town square areas are a nice place to take a breath during a cross-town ride.

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Solidarity with Ukraine!
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Solidarity with Ukraine!

You know you live in a real city when towers pop up along the skyline at random.
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You know you live in a real city when towers pop up along the skyline at random.

This looks like a good place for a snack! (Doesn’t every place?)
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This looks like a good place for a snack! (Doesn’t every place?)

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I gave him two euros for the photo. He wanted to see what it looked like after I took it. It got a smile.
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I gave him two euros for the photo. He wanted to see what it looked like after I took it. It got a smile.

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Don’t philosophize at the geese without a permit!
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Don’t philosophize at the geese without a permit!

Honk honk honk chomp chomp honk peep peep peep chomp chomp honk
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Honk honk honk chomp chomp honk peep peep peep chomp chomp honk

Two honkers looking out for a place to snack.
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Two honkers looking out for a place to snack.

This little guy sassed me and my bike for a good 80 meters.
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This little guy sassed me and my bike for a good 80 meters.

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MOAR SNACKS
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MOAR SNACKS

I really enjoy how the modular letters fit into the sign.
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I really enjoy how the modular letters fit into the sign.

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A really lovely trail.
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A really lovely trail.

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Cool trail this way!
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Cool trail this way!

I KNOW it has a sensible German meaning but IT SAYS FART!! Heeeeeheeheeheee
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I KNOW it has a sensible German meaning but IT SAYS FART!! Heeeeeheeheeheee

The duck approves.
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The duck approves.

Too cute not to photograph.
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Too cute not to photograph.

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DOGLOAF
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DOGLOAF

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Interesting! The USSR hammer and sickle. Symbols of communism turned into symbols of racism, thanks to Russia.
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Interesting! The USSR hammer and sickle. Symbols of communism turned into symbols of racism, thanks to Russia.

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I find this castle quackworthy.
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I find this castle quackworthy.

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PFAFF!!!!
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PFAFF!!!!

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