New Zealand North Island Itinerary, Part 3

Day 15 (Mar 9)

Waiotapu Tavern, 2476 State Highway 5, Waiotapu R D 3 3073

to

Waimangu Volcanic Valley, 587 Waimangu Rd, Rotorua 3043

(5 miles)

Some absolutely amazing geothermal formations here.

[ http://www.waimangu.co.nz ]

Waimangu Volcanic Valley, 587 Waimangu Rd, Rotorua 3043

to

Wai-O-Tapu, 201 Waiotapu Loop Rd, Rotorua 3073

(7.3 miles)

One of the larger, busier geothermal parks. The November-March hours are 8:30am-6:00pm, last admission 4:45pm.

[ http://www.waiotapu.co.nz ]

Day 16 (Mar 10)

Waiotapu Tavern, 2476 State Highway 5, Waiotapu R D 3 3073

to

Barcelona Motel, 21 Taniwha St, Taupo 3330

(34 miles)

A relatively flat, straight ride on a relatively calm road, all the way to the Barcelona Motel in Taupo. Watch for the overpass as you approach town – traffic might compel you to route around it.

[ http://www.barcelonamotel.co.nz ]

Day 17 (Mar 11)

Barcelona Motel, 21 Taniwha St, Taupo 3330

to

Canoe & Kayak Taupo, 54 Spa Rd, Taupo 3330

An easy walk to the kayak depot, for a river-run down the Waikato River, followed by a multi-hour kayaking session along the shores of Lake Taupo.

[ http://www.canoeandkayak.co.nz/ … ]

Day 18 (Mar 12)

An unscheduled day! Holy crap, dude! I’m sure we’ll figure something out.

Day 19 (Mar 13)

Barcelona Motel, 21 Taniwha St, Taupo 3330

to

Oasis Motel Tokaanu, 426 Sh 41, Tokaanu 3381

(36.2 miles)

A fairly easy clockwise ride around the lake, except for one steep hill section near the beginning. Might want to bypass the highway there via Rotongaio Road. The shoulder is narrow in a couple sections, then widens out.

[ http://oasismotel.co.nz ]

Day 20 (Mar 14)

Oasis Motel Tokaanu, 426 Sh 41, Tokaanu 3381

to

Mangatepopo Rd trailhead

Shuttle service from Tokaanu/Turangi provided by Turangi Alpine Crossing. Departure times are 6:00am and 7:30am. Cost: $30 one way per person.

[ http://turangirentals.co.nz/ … ]

Mangatepopo Rd trailhead

to

Ketetahi Rd trailhead

(12 miles)

The famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. 12 miles, with a gentle downhill slope for a good portion of it.

[ http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz/ … ]

If we’re feeling particularly ambitious, we can ascend the optional trail up Mt Ngauruhoe. It’s an additional 2000 feet – almost doubling the ascent of the hike. No easy task.

[ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Ngauruhoe ]

Ketetahi Rd trailhead

to

Oasis Motel Tokaanu, 426 Sh 41, Tokaanu 3381

The latest return shuttle departs at 5:00pm. Cost: $30 per person one way. An additional $50 charge will apply for a later pickup.

Day 21 (Mar 15)

Oasis Motel Tokaanu, 426 Sh 41, Tokaanu 3381

to

The Park Hotel Ruapehu, 2/6 Millar Street, National Park 3989

(38 miles)

This will be a rough riding day, primarily because of the steady ascent. We’ll be going up 2500 feet.

[ http://www.the-park.co.nz ]

Packing two recumbents into one long box

The main boom of a recumbent is the longest component. To transport it internationally you’ll need a long box. What if you’re shipping two recumbents? Will you need two long boxes? Not necessarily. You might be able to get both booms into one box, and put the rest of the components in one or more smaller boxes. The airline will appreciate your efforts.

However, two recumbent booms will get you right up against the oversize weight limit for one container, if not beyond it. Better check with your airline. (Air New Zealand’s limit is 70 pounds for example. Two recumbent booms at 25 pounds each, plus a 19 pound box, will just barely make it.)

Step one: Make sure there isn’t anything else in the box before you start!

Mira wants to help load up the bicycles!

Mira would love to visit New Zealand and kill a thousand birds, I’m sure. Nice try, little cat!

Step two: Strip everything you can from the bicycles. Tires, racks, fenders, pedals, seats, reflectors, lights, bags, kickstands, etc. Take photos as you go, so you have a handy reference when you reassemble the bikes. (Gone are the days of drawing diagrams on paper. Can’t say I miss those days…)

Step three: Arrange the booms side-by-side in opposite directions, with the forks facing inward. If any of the straps inside the box line up, use them to strap the booms in place. Use zipties, threaded through the dropouts in the forks, to anchor each fork to the boom of its neighbor. This will keep the booms from colliding during transit.

Ziptie the handlebars in place as well, and unscrew the rear shifting mechanisms, leaving them hanging freely from their cables. This way they won’t get mangled if the booms detach from their straps and hit a corner.

Since you’re so close to the weight limit, you’ll probably need to fill out the rest of the box with extremely light packing material, rather than additional luggage. The recycled plastic airbags that Amazon and other companies use for shipping will do quite well. Then, you’ll need an additional box to carry all the parts you removed earlier. The wheels will be the bulkiest and most sensitive items, so pack those first.

When you pack up the rest of the pieces, make sure to include a handful of additional zipties. When you’re on the return trip you’ll need them to redo your work.

Looking for a double-pannier rain cover?

For some reason, it’s nearly impossible to find one that’s sold in the United States, let alone manufactured here. But Bear Paw Wilderness Designs has stepped in to fill the gap. I had such a hard time finding these that it’s worth posting about!

Leading Up To Another Trip

Back in 2000 I became briefly fascinated with the idea of moving to New Zealand and getting an IT job, and exploring the country for a while. I’d been feeling frustrated with my social life and untethered from everyone around me, and was ready for a fresh start.

In retrospect I’m glad I didn’t go through with it. It wouldn’t have been a healthy move. But hindsight is 20/20.

Oh dang; stop the bike! Is that a SALE???

I abandoned the idea, but New Zealand still held its appeal as a beautiful place to explore.

Years later when I got into bicycle touring, the country was an obvious choice for a long trip, but it was also an ambitious one – too ambitious for me. I didn’t have the money, or the time, and most importantly, I didn’t have the experience under my belt to know how to schedule and prepare for such a huge adventure.

Then much later in 2010, in a desperate attempt to relieve the pressure of work and get some perspective on my life, I threw together a trip to Australia and Tasmania. That involved transporting the bike as luggage, acquiring a passport, getting immunizations, exchanging currency, booking things from half a world away, learning new traffic laws, making field repairs, and so on.

The trip was a success, and my confidence got a boost.

I also realized how much fun there was to be had, combining bicycling with computers, gadgets, and photography! It was a convergence of hobbies, and the trip left me wanting more.

In 2011 I went on another long trip, crossing a big chunk of the US. Again, my life was in upheaval, and I was looking for answers. It wasn’t one of those grand things where the rider dips one wheel into the Pacific, then rolls it into the Atlantic months later, but it was a good solid chunk of exercise, meditation, photography, and some soul-searching as well.

It was also very seat-of-the-pants. From one day to the next I didn’t know how far I would get, where I would be spending the night, where I would eat, or what I would see on the way.

Ultimately, that experience was a confidence boost as well. I told myself that the next time I did a bike trip, it would be something really ambitious.

Life had other plans of course. I got very busy with a new job and a series of romantic misadventures, then I bought a duplex – easily the biggest project I’ve ever undertaken.

Then I met Kerry. Kerry likes adventure. I believe it was our third date, when we met in a huge parking lot in San Francisco, me on my bicycle, her on her skateboard, and we attached a long bungee cable to the back of my bike and towed her around like she was skiing on a lake, hitting 25mph turns and whipping around me, until the police showed up and ordered us to stop.

We saw The Desolation Of Smaug twice in the theatre, and suddenly, a bicycle tour of New Zealand was right there in the front of my mind again.

And now, a year later, we’re doing it. On matching recumbents, but with cameras from rival companies. It’s gonna be a Canon vs. Sony shootout, spread over 30 days, with bicycling, swimming, surfing, snorkeling, kayaking, canoeing, hiking… And OF COURSE, a tour of Hobbiton.

It’s costing us both a painful amount of money, but we both think it’s worth it. We’ve been preparing for months, and we fly out in two more weeks. I’ve been putting in an absurd amount of work hours to earn extra vacation time, and I’m simultaneously excited, anxious, and exhausted.

Stubborn bike tire won’t get over your rim?

I’m embarrassed to admit that it took me 20 years to figure this out: If you get the tire almost all the way on and the last section is way too tight to get over the rim, you need to get more slack in the tire.

Start at the opposite side, and go around the part of the tire that’s already in place, compressing it and pushing the edges down into the rim so it gets as far in there as possible. You’ll end up with more slack in the section that’s not mounted, and then you can usually get it over the rim by pushing it with the edge of your tire lever.

It’s true: You don’t have to be He-Man to change a tire!