Edinburgh Gardens

For Rachel’s first day in Edinburgh, we decided to visit the Royal Botanic Garden!

It was a relatively short walk, so we left the bicycles aside. Walking was complicated though by Rachel’s shoes: The ones she’d had shipped to the hotel turned out to be too small. She tried to wear them anyway, hoping they might expand a bit, but they didn’t, and the walking rendered them un-returnable. Drat!

Pouting at the wind and rain (and the painful shoes!)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366091_a69e9a141a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366091/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366091_a69e9a141a_s.jpg
2023-07-06-125608-IMG_8884

Pouting at the wind and rain (and the painful shoes!)

You gotta watch out for ’em….
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866473_4601247db8_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866473/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866473_4601247db8_s.jpg
2023-07-06-132031-IMG_0559

You gotta watch out for ’em….

The weather was typically Scottish. Middle of summer but there was rain, mixed with the constant threat of rain, switching hour-by-hour. Nevertheless we enjoyed the walk.

Danger of all the kinds!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366141_9ac6b025e1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366141/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366141_9ac6b025e1_s.jpg
2023-07-06-130216-IMG_8885

Danger of all the kinds!

Now I need a bagel shop…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780645_fd4dde7a35_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780645/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780645_fd4dde7a35_s.jpg
2023-07-06-130738-IMG_0554

Now I need a bagel shop…

Might be hard for the bus to fit in there…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366081_51754cb216_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366081/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366081_51754cb216_s.jpg
2023-07-06-131956-IMG_0831

Might be hard for the bus to fit in there…

In Edinburgh, when you leave a fridge out on the curb, you leave a note explaining why!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784527_6ff00efb24_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784527/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784527_6ff00efb24_s.jpg
2023-07-06-131855-IMG_0557

In Edinburgh, when you leave a fridge out on the curb, you leave a note explaining why!

ZIPTIES FIX EVERYTHING.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572514_be79970c95_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572514/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572514_be79970c95_s.jpg
2023-07-06-123048-IMG_0834

ZIPTIES FIX EVERYTHING.

The garden was founded in 1670 at St. Anne’s Yard, near Holyrood Palace, making it the second oldest botanic garden in the UK after Oxford’s. It moved around a bit, and about 150 years later it came to its present location, and about 50 years later the “Temperate Palm House” building was constructed, which is that building you see in most of the advertisements and search results of the place.

That building was closed when Rachel and I visited, but there was still a whole lot to enjoy, starting with the rock garden:

Lots to explore here.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365776_fc6af9e077_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112365776/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365776_fc6af9e077_s.jpg
2023-07-06-133241-IMG_8890

Lots to explore here.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573089_03707b1a0f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573089/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573089_03707b1a0f_s.jpg
2023-07-06-142635-2023-07-06_14-26-35-38_02-00_3I2A1775
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366321_0d10f23982_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366321/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366321_0d10f23982_s.jpg
2023-07-06-142306-IMG_8899
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573114_6eac516e83_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573114/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573114_6eac516e83_s.jpg
2023-07-06-145323-2023-07-06_14-53-23-10_02-00_3I2A1784
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866523_de7ac5b764_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866523/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866523_de7ac5b764_s.jpg
2023-07-06-133914-IMG_0590
O HAI. Just plopped down here.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866563_bce5b1d66e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866563/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866563_bce5b1d66e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-134329-IMG_0601

O HAI. Just plopped down here.

The garden has a massive “herbarium”: A collection of preserved plant specimens, somewhere above 3 million, the vast majority accumulated this century. It’s in the process of taking hi-res digital photos of all of them, so students and scientists can get access without putting on nine layers of clothing and hearing bagpipe music.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572909_37c31f5e39_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572909/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572909_37c31f5e39_s.jpg
2023-07-06-132421-IMG_0565
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784642_8c9dca2fe5_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784642/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784642_8c9dca2fe5_s.jpg
2023-07-06-134247-IMG_0598
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866513_480fef130e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866513/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866513_480fef130e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-133605-IMG_0582
That’s a big leaf.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572999_1f2d5f6f9a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572999/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572999_1f2d5f6f9a_s.jpg
2023-07-06-140059-IMG_0621

That’s a big leaf.

The girthyest tree around!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572899_d21942b040_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572899/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572899_d21942b040_s.jpg
2023-07-06-133056-IMG_0572

The girthyest tree around!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784227_d437e52873_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784227/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784227_d437e52873_s.jpg
2023-07-06-135331-IMG_0608
Dactylorhiza Elata! I am elated.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366236_db5432786d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366236/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366236_db5432786d_s.jpg
2023-07-06-140123-IMG_0660

Dactylorhiza Elata! I am elated.

Whooo foxglove!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866558_0600ddc4de_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866558/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866558_0600ddc4de_s.jpg
2023-07-06-135920-IMG_0663

Whooo foxglove!

Heuchera Americana
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784622_ddd13170af_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784622/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784622_ddd13170af_s.jpg
2023-07-06-135532-IMG_0664

Heuchera Americana

In many parts of the park, if you stood still and quiet for a moment, you could hear a steady buzz in the background.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866598_8693828360_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866598/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866598_8693828360_s.jpg
2023-07-06-141511-IMG_0648

In many parts of the park, if you stood still and quiet for a moment, you could hear a steady buzz in the background.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366296_49491750f1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366296/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366296_49491750f1_s.jpg
2023-07-06-135753-IMG_8893
Astrantia, ooh la la
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780740_8d81b2de91_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780740/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780740_8d81b2de91_s.jpg
2023-07-06-135818-IMG_0674

Astrantia, ooh la la

A sequoia from California? Unexpected!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572994_7bf95f4566_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572994/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572994_7bf95f4566_s.jpg
2023-07-06-140025-IMG_0620

A sequoia from California? Unexpected!

The grounds cover 70 acres, but we moved at a slow walking pace most of the time. How else you gonna enjoy a garden? We saw a few things we knew from back home – including a Giant Sequoia – and a lot of plants that looked similar to stuff back in California but were actually collected from some distant part of the planet.

Between this garden and its satellite “regional” gardens, there are over 13 thousand species of plants currently being grown. That’s a lot of horticulture.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866093_c16712b2b3_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866093/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866093_c16712b2b3_s.jpg
2023-07-06-133939-IMG_8891
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866118_2d984871b9_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866118/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866118_2d984871b9_s.jpg
2023-07-06-141107-IMG_8895
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866578_8fd1950810_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866578/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866578_8fd1950810_s.jpg
2023-07-06-141231-IMG_0642
Aesculus hippocastanum, a.k.a. the horse chestnut.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573034_eeafeda604_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573034/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573034_eeafeda604_s.jpg
2023-07-06-142251-IMG_0650

Aesculus hippocastanum, a.k.a. the horse chestnut.

Hope forms the future after the storm.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780880_a06c56f41e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780880/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780880_a06c56f41e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-142907-IMG_0657

Hope forms the future after the storm.

Beware the seagulls!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784692_a783294f9d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784692/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784692_a783294f9d_s.jpg
2023-07-06-142930-IMG_0658

Beware the seagulls!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780855_279ed1516c_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780855/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780855_279ed1516c_s.jpg
2023-07-06-143608-2023-07-06_14-36-08-66_02-00_3I2A1780
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780860_211b2e443a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780860/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780860_211b2e443a_s.jpg
2023-07-06-143935-2023-07-06_14-39-35-42_02-00_3I2A1782
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572559_b3bc186237_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572559/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572559_b3bc186237_s.jpg
2023-07-06-145933-2023-07-06_14-59-33-95_02-00_3I2A1788
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866668_2e928a1554_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866668/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866668_2e928a1554_s.jpg
2023-07-06-150822-2023-07-06_15-08-22-34_02-00_3I2A1792
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366441_419a060789_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366441/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366441_419a060789_s.jpg
2023-07-06-150825-2023-07-06_15-08-25-78_02-00_3I2A1793
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365801_0d9a6deeeb_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112365801/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365801_0d9a6deeeb_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151224-IMG_0676
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866988_a16ed6148a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866988/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866988_a16ed6148a_s.jpg
2023-07-06-171007-2023-07-06_17-10-07-21_02-00_3I2A1820

A structure known as Inverleith House serves as a museum on the grounds, and there was a cool walk-through exhibit on textiles and dyes, assembled from the work of multiple artists.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573174_8cb19a6017_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573174/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573174_8cb19a6017_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151930-IMG_0694
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780945_b00df4dfba_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780945/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780945_b00df4dfba_s.jpg
2023-07-06-152013-IMG_0696
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366466_5bd1f0aa43_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366466/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366466_5bd1f0aa43_s.jpg
2023-07-06-152412-IMG_0701
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573194_27b379002e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573194/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573194_27b379002e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-152509-IMG_0704
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780925_5f3ee7a290_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780925/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780925_5f3ee7a290_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151455-IMG_0683
These single-pull dispensers are a menace.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366396_753cac606a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366396/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366396_753cac606a_s.jpg
2023-07-06-145631-IMG_0667

These single-pull dispensers are a menace.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866718_59dc16f39f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866718/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866718_59dc16f39f_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151351-IMG_0680

The exhibit was also about how these things – dyes and textiles – are inextricable from the history of colonialism, and how its perpetrators ransacked local ecologies and violently stamped out local cultures in the name of enrichment back home.

It’s a sobering thought, that evils that helped build and stock the original gardens and much of the current collection, remain threaded – literally – into our food, clothing, labor, and environmental systems. The choices we make – the ways we source things – even as humble individuals, can make a difference.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780940_29ed1a512d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780940/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780940_29ed1a512d_s.jpg
2023-07-06-152427-IMG_0806
LOVE THE CARPET.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784907_994826641e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784907/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784907_994826641e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-153021-IMG_0712

LOVE THE CARPET.

Just outside the building we found a charming little fountain as well, with Bonus Fowl:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366511_421b8a25f7_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366511/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366511_421b8a25f7_s.jpg
2023-07-06-152911-2023-07-06_15-29-11-10_02-00_3I2A1810
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784272_23a9d20942_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784272/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784272_23a9d20942_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151227-2023-07-06_15-12-27-88_02-00_3I2A1797

There was a garden that looked more production-oriented than the others, with flowers and little sour apples. In our ramblings we weren’t sure if it was the Queen Mother Memorial Garden, or the Scottish Heath Garden. The weather brightened up just while we were there.

Rachel likes doorways.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781000_fa2615fb3b_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112781000/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781000_fa2615fb3b_s.jpg
2023-07-06-153603-IMG_8902

Rachel likes doorways.

Two Crows is one of my favorite shows.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866773_8dccebd6f4_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866773/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866773_8dccebd6f4_s.jpg
2023-07-06-151834-2023-07-06_15-18-34-07_02-00_3I2A1803

Two Crows is one of my favorite shows.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572614_56af969ce8_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572614/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572614_56af969ce8_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154352-IMG_0722
Malus domestica, a.k.a. ‘Stirling Castle’
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366556_f88a2a6e59_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366556/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366556_f88a2a6e59_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154521-IMG_8909

Malus domestica, a.k.a. ‘Stirling Castle’

Yay gardens!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780360_221c71c513_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780360/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780360_221c71c513_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154542-IMG_8911

Yay gardens!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784982_dacc26bb84_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784982/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784982_dacc26bb84_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154701-IMG_8912
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785022_8f36f8f664_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785022/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785022_8f36f8f664_s.jpg
2023-07-06-155614-IMG_0751
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784972_920f5bb8dd_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784972/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784972_920f5bb8dd_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154732-IMG_0733
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573314_29c81df62e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573314/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573314_29c81df62e_s.jpg
2023-07-06-155243-IMG_0743
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866808_bb75a00ffb_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866808/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866808_bb75a00ffb_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154223-IMG_0718
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785127_0d6cd5b1c8_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785127/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785127_0d6cd5b1c8_s.jpg
2023-07-06-170514-2023-07-06_17-05-14-07_02-00_3I2A1818

I’ve been through working gardens that were part of an exhibition before, in different places, and one of the things I find most charming about them is there are (almost) never any actual gardeners there doing the hard work of maintaining them. So you get to wander through and love the plants and the neat rows and irrigation without thinking about how labor-intensive it is.

Contrast this with your own garden back home, if you’re lucky enough to have the space for one: Everything you look at is a reminder of some task you’re ignoring. Weeding, pest control, erosion control, fertilizing…

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573279_9f91e9dcd3_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573279/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573279_9f91e9dcd3_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154420-IMG_0724
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366566_6c1fb574ba_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366566/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366566_6c1fb574ba_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154855-IMG_0735
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781080_a44067a22f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112781080/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781080_a44067a22f_s.jpg
2023-07-06-155805-IMG_0758
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573344_f73828160d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573344/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573344_f73828160d_s.jpg
2023-07-06-155432-IMG_0746
They look cute and tasty. They are NOT tasty.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573324_b3a26f6931_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112573324/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112573324_b3a26f6931_s.jpg
2023-07-06-155319-IMG_8917

They look cute and tasty. They are NOT tasty.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866143_965afc0683_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866143/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866143_965afc0683_s.jpg
2023-07-06-154930-IMG_0739

There was one laborer we were happy to see though. A local pest control specialist:

Garden cat in natural environment.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785147_9ed4bc2218_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785147/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785147_9ed4bc2218_s.jpg
2023-07-06-170302-2023-07-06_17-03-02-70_02-00_3I2A1815

Garden cat in natural environment.

Majestic garden cat.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866898_30f4521dac_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866898/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866898_30f4521dac_s.jpg
2023-07-06-170131-2023-07-06_17-01-31-41_02-00_3I2A1811

Majestic garden cat.

Garden cat is watching you!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366691_b588d62b0c_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366691/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366691_b588d62b0c_s.jpg
2023-07-06-170307-2023-07-06_17-03-07-20_02-00_3I2A1817

Garden cat is watching you!

Later in the day we wandered through some more indoor exhibits, and the cafeteria. It was neat to see some of the preserved specimens hauled out for display. I could almost picture the scientists in waistcoats and monocles squinting at them 150 years ago and declaring “Oh I say!” or whatnot.

A plethora of bell jars!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785032_8f2f62e534_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785032/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785032_8f2f62e534_s.jpg
2023-07-06-161519-IMG_0767

A plethora of bell jars!

Plant yes: Mouse alive. Plant no: Mouse no.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366641_6f3ec1f3b1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366641/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366641_6f3ec1f3b1_s.jpg
2023-07-06-162021-IMG_0770

Plant yes: Mouse alive. Plant no: Mouse no.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866883_0082467052_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866883/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866883_0082467052_s.jpg
2023-07-06-161729-IMG_8919
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366606_eaa7630f00_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366606/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366606_eaa7630f00_s.jpg
2023-07-06-161809-IMG_1105
Frozen peas! Bring it on.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781090_8483cd3e8c_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112781090/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781090_8483cd3e8c_s.jpg
2023-07-06-163315-IMG_0773

Frozen peas! Bring it on.

Elephant’s Foot!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785197_1d8af7b0c5_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785197/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785197_1d8af7b0c5_s.jpg
2023-07-06-171635-2023-07-06_17-16-35-93_02-00_3I2A1827

Elephant’s Foot!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785172_75b0f2cf6f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785172/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785172_75b0f2cf6f_s.jpg
2023-07-06-171546-2023-07-06_17-15-46-22_02-00_3I2A1825

In the late afternoon we moseyed back the way we’d come, taking a slightly different route to see more of the quaint lived-in city detail.

Let’s go to the garden!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366651_6acc4198d1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366651/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366651_6acc4198d1_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164128-IMG_0776

Let’s go to the garden!

The world should have more tile like this.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572624_8314f99d30_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572624/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572624_8314f99d30_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164258-IMG_0778

The world should have more tile like this.

Can’t remember the name of this disease-warding demon…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366661_0d6bfef442_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366661/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366661_0d6bfef442_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164420-IMG_0781

Can’t remember the name of this disease-warding demon…

“Do you have any cheese, he asked, expecting the answer no?”
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366671_abb5240a8d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366671/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366671_abb5240a8d_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164643-IMG_0784

“Do you have any cheese, he asked, expecting the answer no?”

So cool.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866913_70c51d127c_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866913/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866913_70c51d127c_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164826-IMG_8925

So cool.

Sale: Too many pounds!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866918_23360b5e21_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866918/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866918_23360b5e21_s.jpg
2023-07-06-164838-IMG_0790

Sale: Too many pounds!

The world is divided thus.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366701_e31d0e17f1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366701/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366701_e31d0e17f1_s.jpg
2023-07-06-165031-IMG_0793

The world is divided thus.

Even the door handles are on-brand.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366771_3790d0a431_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366771/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366771_3790d0a431_s.jpg
2023-07-06-202318-IMG_0822

Even the door handles are on-brand.

Handles attached to ropes to ring the bell in different units? I think?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366756_029fa49a83_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366756/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366756_029fa49a83_s.jpg
2023-07-06-205334-IMG_E0828

Handles attached to ropes to ring the bell in different units? I think?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785162_2046e4c1e3_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785162/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785162_2046e4c1e3_s.jpg
2023-07-06-204841-IMG_0830

Then in the evening, it was time for Scottish cuisine!

Oh boy, fancy dinner!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785152_9700ca4bb2_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111785152/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111785152_9700ca4bb2_s.jpg
2023-07-06-193640-IMG_8928

Oh boy, fancy dinner!

When the name of the place is baked onto the pie, you know it’s good.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781180_b4c5683f58_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112781180/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112781180_b4c5683f58_s.jpg
2023-07-06-195449-IMG_8930

When the name of the place is baked onto the pie, you know it’s good.

Still so much exploring to do. We agreed that at some point in our visit, we should hang out here, because, well, dykes!

Visit DUMBIEDYKES!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53115132314_5ba2ba3837_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53115132314/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53115132314_5ba2ba3837_s.jpg
2023-07-21-110045-IMG_3261

Visit DUMBIEDYKES!

An Arrival!

Guess who I found at the airport!

Rachel’s here!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863373_4f9c4e8399_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112863373/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863373_4f9c4e8399_s.jpg
2023-07-05-114946-IMG_8872

Rachel’s here!

After walking the luggage to the hotel, Rachel and I grabbed the key that Andrew left behind and went in search of snacks. (I find that the best first thing to do in any city is locate snacks.)

Andrew left a note to make sure they didn’t think we were checking out.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863368_d62ec0437a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112863368/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863368_d62ec0437a_s.jpg
2023-07-05-124758-IMG_8873

Andrew left a note to make sure they didn’t think we were checking out.

GLUTEN FREE
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777655_0bc2ccbc52_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777655/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777655_0bc2ccbc52_s.jpg
2023-07-05-214834-IMG_8037

GLUTEN FREE

We spent the rest of the day walking around the city, admiring the layers of civilization. And there are many layers, in a place continuously occupied for as long as Edinburgh…

Adventures in plumbing.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863423_834cf71b48_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112863423/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863423_834cf71b48_s.jpg
2023-07-05-215517-IMG_0468

Adventures in plumbing.

Sometimes your exterior plumbing is just too old to work with…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781552_4660b0e408_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111781552/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781552_4660b0e408_s.jpg
2023-07-05-204049-IMG_0462

Sometimes your exterior plumbing is just too old to work with…

I particularly enjoyed the stairs in Warriston’s Close:

Check out those cool bricks.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112363106_e00c34fbda_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112363106/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112363106_e00c34fbda_s.jpg
2023-07-05-221719-IMG_0484

Check out those cool bricks.

Longest stair in Edinburgh! (As far as I know.)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863413_e9e1c017bb_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112863413/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863413_e9e1c017bb_s.jpg
2023-07-05-221552-IMG_0477

Longest stair in Edinburgh! (As far as I know.)

Along with layers of stone and steel, we also found layers of signage.

If this sign was in San Francisco instead of Edinburgh, everything on it would mean something quite different.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781642_d52f1e2e39_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111781642/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781642_d52f1e2e39_s.jpg
2023-07-05-222536-IMG_0497

If this sign was in San Francisco instead of Edinburgh, everything on it would mean something quite different.

You can sell a lot of costumes and accessories in 100+ years.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572534_e14f0c6d15_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572534/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572534_e14f0c6d15_s.jpg
2023-07-05-232330-IMG_0543

You can sell a lot of costumes and accessories in 100+ years.

I cycle, boi!!!! A sticker in Edinburgh promoting a cycling organization in southern Idaho. Dig it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866053_fa1f793d68_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866053/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866053_fa1f793d68_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223053-IMG_0511

I cycle, boi!!!! A sticker in Edinburgh promoting a cycling organization in southern Idaho. Dig it.

And layers of graffiti as well, each with their own weird cultural story to add.

Watch out you don’t get FU-MO
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572504_99d29ef1ac_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572504/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572504_99d29ef1ac_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223039-IMG_0510

Watch out you don’t get FU-MO

YÖRG BALLS, man. And why draw a heart when you can instead draw a less-than sign and a numeral three? Very post-modern!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777745_8c071d2634_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777745/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777745_8c071d2634_s.jpg
2023-07-05-222032-IMG_8880

YÖRG BALLS, man. And why draw a heart when you can instead draw a less-than sign and a numeral three? Very post-modern!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866073_2f2d09cca3_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866073/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866073_2f2d09cca3_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223529-IMG_0518

The deep natural valleys around the castle have made the city grow as a series of galleries that look up, down, and across to each other. You can see more than you’d expect from any one place, but it’s always different.

This sign is cute as a … carabiner??
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781547_685a57bc8f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111781547/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781547_685a57bc8f_s.jpg
2023-07-05-204223-IMG_0464

This sign is cute as a … carabiner??

Dish goes up; dish goes down. Wall remains.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112363146_8d2fe61ba2_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112363146/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112363146_8d2fe61ba2_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223006-IMG_0838

Dish goes up; dish goes down. Wall remains.

Cool lighting!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780290_ee6cc6278b_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780290/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780290_ee6cc6278b_s.jpg
2023-07-05-222729-IMG_0500

Cool lighting!

Don’t stare into the abyss too long.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780520_6032bdd8ed_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780520/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780520_6032bdd8ed_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223628-IMG_0520

Don’t stare into the abyss too long.

Thistle do.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780585_7e210cf7b8_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780585/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780585_7e210cf7b8_s.jpg
2023-07-05-231603-IMG_0541

Thistle do.

One of Rachel’s favorites was another stairway: The Scotsman Steps.

The Scotsman Steps. Pretty solid contender for second-longest stairs in Edinburgh.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784477_d3b1e6218f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111784477/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111784477_d3b1e6218f_s.jpg
2023-07-05-231240-IMG_0536

The Scotsman Steps. Pretty solid contender for second-longest stairs in Edinburgh.

All about the Scotsman Steps.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365736_78e8740a6d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112365736/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112365736_78e8740a6d_s.jpg
2023-07-05-231440-IMG_0539

All about the Scotsman Steps.

Relatively new construction (built a mere 125 years ago), and now a UNESCO-listed site.

We bought ice cream and kept wandering until our feet complained.

That old fishmarket is right around here… The sign says so…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863478_c4d0ef0333_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112863478/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112863478_c4d0ef0333_s.jpg
2023-07-05-222331-IMG_0490

That old fishmarket is right around here… The sign says so…

A gallery of allergens.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866388_c5c84c5159_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112866388/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112866388_c5c84c5159_s.jpg
2023-07-05-224513-IMG_0528

A gallery of allergens.

You’re never lost. Robertson’s always nearby.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780530_bab3e6d29b_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780530/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780530_bab3e6d29b_s.jpg
2023-07-05-223707-IMG_0521

You’re never lost. Robertson’s always nearby.

FREAKIN’ BAGPIPES GALORE. WHAT MORE DO YOU NEED??
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780575_c58a057d44_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112780575/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112780575_c58a057d44_s.jpg
2023-07-05-224716-IMG_0529

FREAKIN’ BAGPIPES GALORE. WHAT MORE DO YOU NEED??

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366056_decc7200a4_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112366056/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112366056_decc7200a4_s.jpg
2023-07-05-230834-IMG_8882
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572794_40d78b9642_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112572794/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112572794_40d78b9642_s.jpg
2023-07-05-231149-IMG_0534

Far too much to see in one day. Good thing we had the next one!

First Edinburgh Outing

All riiiight! First full day in this city. Time to see some fancy bricks ‘n’ stuff.

Ready for more random riding!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362401_b77e4f6174_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362401/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362401_b77e4f6174_s.jpg
2023-07-01-154052-IMG_9422

Ready for more random riding!

Let’s get crankin’. But first: BREAKFAST.

We found a cafe in the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland, and ate a buffet breakfast sitting at the windows, with the bikes parked outside in view. As usual, lots of pedestrians stopped to scope out the recumbents, look confused, then move on.

Since we had to switch hotels in the evening, we had all our touring gear packed back on the bikes. It was annoying but we got by.

Everyone loves the recumbents!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780932_b1877a4397_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780932/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780932_b1877a4397_s.jpg
2023-07-01-134713-IMG_8640

Everyone loves the recumbents!

After that we took a little browse around the gallery.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569119_b1c1d5c067_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569119/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569119_b1c1d5c067_s.jpg
2023-07-01-161958-2023-07-01_16-19-58-31_02-00_3I2A1597
Sir Walter Scott, poet and author.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569094_121ebc54d1_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569094/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569094_121ebc54d1_s.jpg
2023-07-01-162020-2023-07-01_16-20-20-18_02-00_3I2A1598

Sir Walter Scott, poet and author.

Dr Elsie Maud Inglis, pioneer of medical education for women.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777050_fbe181e6ac_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777050/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777050_fbe181e6ac_s.jpg
2023-07-01-161931-2023-07-01_16-19-31-43_02-00_3I2A1596

Dr Elsie Maud Inglis, pioneer of medical education for women.

Super cool mosaic.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112568714_d579c1d7ed_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112568714/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112568714_d579c1d7ed_s.jpg
2023-07-01-153728-IMG_9415

Super cool mosaic.

Flora MacDonald in the gallery.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362116_b089351b02_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362116/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362116_b089351b02_s.jpg
2023-07-01-162230-2023-07-01_16-22-30-42_02-00_3I2A1601

Flora MacDonald in the gallery.

From there we set out, pedaling randomly around the city. Sometimes we’d stick together, other times we’d split off.

The tram line through the center of Edinburgh.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862618_8bd67e477e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112862618/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862618_8bd67e477e_s.jpg
2023-07-01-123655-2023-07-01_12-36-55-30_02-00_3I2A1593

The tram line through the center of Edinburgh.

I guess if you’re gonna make a bunch of houses all the same, this is a pretty good style for it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780652_c0fa7a3899_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780652/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780652_c0fa7a3899_s.jpg
2023-07-01-112258-IMG_8635

I guess if you’re gonna make a bunch of houses all the same, this is a pretty good style for it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780662_50c72aed4e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780662/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780662_50c72aed4e_s.jpg
2023-07-01-112731-IMG_8637
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862413_9d106de781_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112862413/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862413_9d106de781_s.jpg
2023-07-01-112808-IMG_8639
Info in Coates Crescent Gardens.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780937_0fef057b54_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780937/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780937_0fef057b54_s.jpg
2023-07-01-123342-2023-07-01_12-33-42-03_02-00_3I2A1590

Info in Coates Crescent Gardens.

Anybody need a light?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112568699_a1c0e353d2_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112568699/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112568699_a1c0e353d2_s.jpg
2023-07-01-123043-2023-07-01_12-30-43-51_02-00_3I2A1580

Anybody need a light?

Proper sun protection is important.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862583_ea674e19cd_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112862583/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862583_ea674e19cd_s.jpg
2023-07-01-123159-2023-07-01_12-31-59-59_02-00_3I2A1584

Proper sun protection is important.

TEMPTING TATTIE. They’ve got baked potatoes!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777040_d34490fd32_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777040/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777040_d34490fd32_s.jpg
2023-07-01-155328-IMG_8651

TEMPTING TATTIE. They’ve got baked potatoes!

Nick lingered in a park for a while and saw an adorable kid feeding birds.

We all converged at the North Bridge, and encountered a lively two-man band entertaining the crowd.

Andrew approved of the band, though I could kinda tell he would rather be on foot than hauling all this touring gear around the city.

“Man, I dunno about this ‘riding everywhere’ business.”
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780692_efac82bfcb_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780692/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780692_efac82bfcb_s.jpg
2023-07-01-164651-2023-07-01_16-46-51-07_02-00_3I2A1604

“Man, I dunno about this ‘riding everywhere’ business.”

We crossed the bridge and headed for the High St, and there we had our first sighting of the Edinburgh Childrens Hospital Charity Pipers.

One of the energetic street performers.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780992_53e1afe3fc_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780992/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780992_53e1afe3fc_s.jpg
2023-07-01-164709-2023-07-01_16-47-09-16_02-00_3I2A1605

One of the energetic street performers.

The Edinburgh Childrens Hospital charity pipers!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569134_a5fba970ec_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569134/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569134_a5fba970ec_s.jpg
2023-07-01-170101-2023-07-01_17-01-01-96_02-00_3I2A1616

The Edinburgh Childrens Hospital charity pipers!

Now here’s a dude with lungs.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362521_3488a9b7d5_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362521/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362521_3488a9b7d5_s.jpg
2023-07-01-180929-2023-07-01_18-09-29-56_02-00_3I2A1651

Now here’s a dude with lungs.

Pipin’ for charity.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362576_e7559a313e_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362576/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362576_e7559a313e_s.jpg
2023-07-01-181522-2023-07-01_18-15-22-92_02-00_3I2A1661

Pipin’ for charity.

Put yer coins in the bucket!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362581_17957dae61_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362581/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362581_17957dae61_s.jpg
2023-07-01-181717-2023-07-01_18-17-17-13_02-00_3I2A1664

Put yer coins in the bucket!

They walked from place to place in a big group, stopping at arranged locations and giving 15-minute performances. We saw them half a dozen times at least.

It looked like great fun, and they collected a decent amount of cash too.

The extra flourishes some of the drummers made were cool. Were they traditional, or improvised moves? I didn’t know.

We walked the bikes on the High Street. The crowds were just ludicrous.

The Royal Mile is by far the busiest street in Edinburgh.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569159_d059eaa711_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569159/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569159_d059eaa711_s.jpg
2023-07-01-171951-2023-07-01_17-19-51-90_02-00_3I2A1630

The Royal Mile is by far the busiest street in Edinburgh.

Every three blocks or so, a different person was stationed, playing the bagpipes. The effect was almost spiritual, like after 700 years of the instrument playing in this region (possibly as much as 3000 years), the sound of bagpipes was infused into the very stones and just vibrated out like heat.

Sometimes they were deployed a little too close to each other, and the overlap created weird harmonics.

Pipin’ for lunch money.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780707_3c5ff83e70_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111780707/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111780707_3c5ff83e70_s.jpg
2023-07-01-172250-2023-07-01_17-22-50-25_02-00_3I2A1635

Pipin’ for lunch money.

Pipin’ for the heck of it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569254_66bf5088ca_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569254/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569254_66bf5088ca_s.jpg
2023-07-01-173057-2023-07-01_17-30-57-08_02-00_3I2A1639

Pipin’ for the heck of it.

We split up again and explored some more. The city was overflowing with detail, in structures large and small.

Elk with shields? Why not!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569174_8b4b20c1dc_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112569174/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112569174_8b4b20c1dc_s.jpg
2023-07-01-172205-2023-07-01_17-22-05-15_02-00_3I2A1632

Elk with shields? Why not!

This is one of the single most amazing pieces of topiary I’ve come across.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777190_9c022f1f5b_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777190/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777190_9c022f1f5b_s.jpg
2023-07-01-174801-2023-07-01_17-48-01-72_02-00_3I2A1640

This is one of the single most amazing pieces of topiary I’ve come across.

No idea what this is doing in Scotland…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862458_0096293d0a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112862458/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862458_0096293d0a_s.jpg
2023-07-01-213309-IMG_8733

No idea what this is doing in Scotland…

This statue is having a crappy day…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777095_db10ded753_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777095/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777095_db10ded753_s.jpg
2023-07-01-171356-2023-07-01_17-13-56-37_02-00_3I2A1625

This statue is having a crappy day…

In the evening we converged again for dinner.

This guy is weeeeird!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362556_07b284f831_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112362556/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112362556_07b284f831_s.jpg
2023-07-01-185214-IMG_E8722

This guy is weeeeird!

Dinner was followed by dessert, because calories are meaningless on a bike tour!

Sometimes he voids his own warranty.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777140_af136a5946_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112777140/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112777140_af136a5946_s.jpg
2023-07-01-180046-IMG_8669

Sometimes he voids his own warranty.

The bubblegum sundae. Pretty crazy.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781102_656f09debc_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53111781102/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53111781102_656f09debc_s.jpg
2023-07-01-204216-IMG_8731

The bubblegum sundae. Pretty crazy.

The new hotel was on the north side of town, and our room was up three flights of stairs. There was no elevator, so we had to haul the bikes all the way.

When we settled in, the extra height was refreshing though. I opened the windows and was treated to a night time performance:

Seabirds flappin’ by the light of the moon.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862813_721b3898df_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53112862813/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53112862813_721b3898df_s.jpg
2023-07-01-225848-2023-07-01_22-58-48-60_02-00_3I2A1668

Seabirds flappin’ by the light of the moon.

We were in this hotel for a couple of days, so we could leave our gear on the floor for a change.

An Introvert In Paris

As an introvert, I felt deeply uncomfortable for the first week in Paris. I arrived in an introverted state of mind, desiring solitude, and a chance to sit down and work and think quietly, perhaps in some nice green spaces.  Paris laughed at that.

Any time of day or night when I went outside, I saw throngs of people walking around and sitting at tables conversing with each other.  Every night, even at the grand hour of 3:00am, the river near my apartment was thickly lined with people, most of them young, some of them eating food, some sitting on chairs or couches hauled to the edge of the street, all of them talking.  The crowds waxed and waned, but they never, ever went away.

Good noms on our last night in Paris.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053194458_b0667c7a85_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53053194458/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053194458_b0667c7a85_s.jpg
2023-06-23-000150-IMG_7894

Good noms on our last night in Paris.

It was constant and eternal, the conversation.  I was not used to the physical closeness of the seated crowds.  The equivalent closeness back home would be at a ballgame, or a concert, or some other collective activity.  We were packed close, and if you weren’t talking, you were the odd one out.  Almost no one sat alone.

Enjoying the random Paris rain at 3:00am!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53050525308_8a891eecf2_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53050525308/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53050525308_8a891eecf2_s.jpg
2023-06-18-030446-IMG_7716

Enjoying the random Paris rain at 3:00am!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053079275_3b60de0e7d_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53053079275/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053079275_3b60de0e7d_s.jpg
2023-06-19-225037-IMG_7818

Back home I could enter a coffee shop with plenty of space to sit down, and be completely undisturbed as I sat among other people, most of them working on things or reading quietly, with the occasional conversation happening in between.  I would have room to spread out papers, or a laptop next to a plate.  Often there would be music filling out the atmosphere.  I found almost no recorded music playing in Paris.  Because, why bother?  The talking would just drown it out.  It was like the busiest part of a thriving downtown, reproduced around itself, spiraling outward to the size of an entire city.  There was no place you could go, outdoors or in, aside from your own home, that wasn’t in line of sight from at least one other person, and usually a crowd.

I don’t know whether my initial discomfort with this was because I am an introvert most of the time, or because I couldn’t speak very much French, and felt isolated due to that.  But one thing that only occurred to me in retrospect is that I was witnessing a version of urban life imbued with so much energy that it actually squeezed out the presence of the smartphone, and the internet in general.  There was so much audible conversation vibrating in the air that the wireless signals now permeating everything were superfluous.  I’m certain the people here have cell phones in just the same quantity as any other modern city, but I saw them far less than back home.  When people sat down at a table, they conversed with the person across from them, and almost never pulled out their phone, except perhaps to check something germane to the conversation.  Why be concerned about information and dialogue happening miles away when there is so much directly in front of your face, pushing into your ears?

This is about an hour of waiting in line for a few scoops of ice cream. I’m sure it’s tasty but, I’m going to go with a different vendor, thanks…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967790686_05ddd71b91_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/52967790686/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967790686_05ddd71b91_s.jpg
2023-05-28-180121-IMG_7433

This is about an hour of waiting in line for a few scoops of ice cream. I’m sure it’s tasty but, I’m going to go with a different vendor, thanks…

Local protestors.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967767486_7c79b47d0a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/52967767486/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967767486_7c79b47d0a_s.jpg
2023-05-27-154032-2023-05-27_15-40-32-81_02-00_3I2A0441

Local protestors.

I arrived here by train, and I imagine almost all the other tourists either did the same or arrived by the airport, which means the impression we’re building of France is confined to this city.  The rest of France, and French people in general, could be wildly different.  I get that.  But I can say this about Paris: Nowhere else have I seen such a combination of narrow streets, packed bars, tiny tables decorated with “no laptop” signs, public parks so covered in people that the green of the grass is drowned out by the colors of clothing and skin and food, self-assured pedestrians striding out into traffic, bicycles and scooters barreling through narrow corridors cut into throngs of people, and gawking tourists with sunburns and sore feet.  I’ve seen this stuff in other European cities, including large ones like London and Copenhagen, and bicycle-mad places like Amsterdam, but not to this manic degree.  Not to the point where it feels like an expression of something fundamentally different beneath. The city feels ripped out of modern time, existing in a space where things invented this century are treated as a suspicious, uncool intrusions. Especially things that create metaphysical distance between people, like the smartphone.

Maybe I’m reading too much into this. But I imagine someone living in Paris would find practically every other city in the western world to be lonely by comparison.  Even though there is a language barrier for me, the press of constant dialogue and the sense of being insulated from all of the change and chaos of the outside world by the buffering chaos of the city itself is weirdly reassuring, as though I’m experiencing a unique synthesis of being anonymous in a crowd while also being intimately close to everyone here with me.

You can sail boats here too!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967908219_bb7870da51_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/52967908219/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52967908219_bb7870da51_s.jpg
2023-05-27-161033-2023-05-27_16-10-33-74_02-00_3I2A0461

You can sail boats here too!

There’s a beautiful little park here, somewhere, under all these people.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968246113_8f4a704e4f_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/52968246113/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968246113_8f4a704e4f_s.jpg
2023-05-27-190038-2023-05-27_19-00-38-95_02-00_3I2A0481

There’s a beautiful little park here, somewhere, under all these people.

On the other hand, how intimate is it, really?  Americans are known for being very gregarious in public encounters, even with strangers, telling them all kinds of personal details about their lives, to the point where many foreigners feel like their privacy is being grossly invaded during the average subway ride or transaction at a supermarket.  And I suspect that reaction would be the same even for a Parisian wandering around New York.  I think they would feel hesitant, and the funny, scrappy, slightly pugilistic dialogue that’s been the baseline of my random exchanges in New York or Chicago would probably feel uncomfortably aggressive to them.

And if you took a million Americans and crammed them together in a city as close as Paris, would we all sit alone at tiny tables on the street hunched over our cell phones, too afraid – or too overworked – to talk to one another in this way?  Or would we would blossom into our own American kind of dialogue?

Actually I suspect most of us would immediately feel hemmed in by the lack of space to pursue hobbies and keep equipment.  I mean, hell, I occupy a lot less space than the average American my age, but even I have five bicycles and a heap of touring hardware, which I keep crammed in a garage.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053185243_a4dd576127_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53053185243/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53053185243_a4dd576127_s.jpg
2023-06-23-005715-IMG_7896
So many weird devices and parts…
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53052903429_9f14c9588a_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/53052903429/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53052903429_9f14c9588a_s.jpg
2023-06-23-005759-IMG_7897

So many weird devices and parts…

When Ann was planning her portion of this trip, she said, “I’ve done plenty of London and Berlin, and it feels like enough. But I could always do more Paris.” Now I understand why.

Navigating Paris After Two Weeks

I came here on a bike loaded for wilderness-level touring. I couldn’t help it, because that’s the load-out I used in Iceland and the bike has been stored in a basement, untouched, since the Iceland tour finished almost two years ago. When I got here – to a rented apartment on Rue de la Fontaine au Roi – I stripped all the bags and gear off the bike and threw them in a closet, and have been going around with nothing but a phone, some Airpods, a house key, and a very sturdy bike lock.

Tried this cafe a second time, but the mocha was no better.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968167585_56becdc989_b.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57897385@N07/52968167585/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968167585_56becdc989_s.jpg
2023-06-07-142632-IMG_7590

Tried this cafe a second time, but the mocha was no better.

Parisians seem to love the recumbent. Of the thousands of bicycles I’ve seen so far in the city, I haven’t seen a single recumbent, so it gets a lot of commentary. I understand why it would be rare: Paris has turned out to be what I would call an “expert level” place for bicycling, much more so than any other giant city I’ve been to in Europe, and you need to be very good on a recumbent to avoid injury in a place like this. Relatively speaking, Amsterdam, Brussels, Hamburg, Copenhagen, and London are all easier.

Back in the US, I’d say New York is relatively easy, and so is most of Boston and Chicago. In terms of danger I’d say that Paris is not top of the list – downtown LA occupies that spot for me so far – but it’s a strong second place. It’s not fear of deliberate violence I’m talking about, but the risk of accident, from the sheer press of people and the contempt they show for the rules. And it bears repeating: This is Europe. I have yet to experience bicycle touring in, for example, Rio de Janeiro or Bangkok. I’m sure Paris would be way down the list by then.

The weather is perfect, but the air quality is pretty bad. I’ve noticed that smog laws in Paris are treated as suggestions, especially by people on ancient scooters and mopeds. While biking around I’ve encountered entire city blocks that stink of car exhaust to the point of making me feel physically ill.

And I’ve gone to believe that the French take a dim view of laws and government in general, which I suppose is great where personal freedom is involved but is also a barrier to organization and urban planning, even daily logistics:

Will a shop respect its own posted hours? Maybe. Will you get warning when a street is closed for construction? Maybe. Will the bus actually stop where the schedule says? Maybe. Will the postman deliver your package? Maybe. Will there be a bike lane? Maybe. Will it be on the left, right, or middle or the street? Take a wild guess! Will there be a delivery truck parked right on top of it? Maybe. Will the train be on time? Maybe. What platform will it arrive on? Nobody knows until 20 minutes before it’s due to leave, ever, even if that train line has been operating for years, and even then it may be wrong.

Every intersection is a free-for-all hash of bicycles, people, cars, and scooters. Crosswalks are a suggestion. Crosswalk signals are less than a suggestion; they are ignored. On the other hand, people almost never honk their horns regardless of the thickness of the snarl or who is technically at fault, because the response they are most likely to get is, “screw you, this is France.”

I shouldn’t have been surprised. What sort of organization would I expect, from a nation whose most truly defining era is still the French Revolution? Where laws, for the vast majority of its history, were used to funnel wealth upwards first – into the laps of clergy and kings – and organize people second? The nation I come from owes an incalculable debt to the same thinkers and activists that drove the French Revolution, and the influence shows, but I get the impression that the French had to swing a lot harder to knock their tyrants off their posts, and that impact is still echoing around in the culture here.

That’s a cerebral place to go, starting from a description of the air and the traffic… No doubt it’s subjective and I’ll have other impressions as the days continue.