My relationship with food

September 24, 2019 by Filed under Advice, Introspection

At the end of my last bike tour, before I went back to my regular environment, I thought about trying to improve my eating habits. What was the right approach to eating? What did I actually believe?

After years of experimentation, conversations, reading countless books and editorials, and often getting contradictory or useless advice, was there anything I had to show for all that research? Anything that still felt like wisdom?

I did a little experiment: I wrote down everything I had at the top of my head about proper eating and exercise, without consulting any references. This was my ground truth.

When and why should I eat?

  • Recognize when you are eating for some other reason
    • Are you bored?
      • Seeking out or eating a meal might just be something you’re doing because you suddenly have free time
    • Are you upset?
      • This is called “eating your feelings”.  First, notice the feeling.  Then find alternatives to eating it.
      • Call someone up, go outside for a moment, sing along to some music. Write. Try meditating.
    • Are you conforming to the situation?
      • Parties, receptions, tastings, movie theaters
        • Is the place itself compelling you to eat food to “complete the experience”?
      • Keeping something in your hand at a social event
        • Are you just getting a drink or a snack so you have something to fill in the gaps between talking?
        • Are you eating because you don’t want to talk, but don’t want to look antisocial?
    • Your stomach has made room
      • There’s a difference between being able to take in more food, and actually needing food.
      • Unless you are exercising heavily, your body will take some time passing through the first stage before it gets to the second.
      • Recognize when you are only in the first stage.
        • It may take some practice and concentration before you learn the difference. You may not have actually been in the second stage for a long time. Weeks or months.
      • Don’t take this as a reason to starve yourself.  When you get to the second stage, eat.
        • Your body needs some input of proteins, vitamins, fiber, and oils, just to keep up with repairs, even if you’re not exercising.
  • Put a hand on your stomach and concentrate.  Is it your stomach and your gut that wants the food?  Or just your mouth, your throat, your head, your hands, your heart?
    • Listen to your gut.  Don’t listen to those other parts.
  • Sorting out when you are eating for other reasons will be one of the hardest things you do.
    • You WILL NEED to find another outlet for those feelings or you WILL fail.
    • Don’t try and solve this problem all at once.  Pay attention to it a little each day.  Build a habit.  Try setting an alarm to check in with yourself.
    • Environmental tweaks beats willpower every single time.

What should I eat?

  • Try to eat a variety
    • Avoid fake variety
      • Entire store aisles can be filled with products in all different kinds of bottles and boxes but they are all made of the same handful of ingredients, processed different ways
      • Read the ingredients for everything you buy.  Think about what balance of carbohydrates to protein you are getting.
    • Once you have variety, try to switch it up, long range
      • Try entirely cutting out a particular vegetable or meat for a long time – a month perhaps – and then adding it back in
      • This is a tactic to keep your immune and digestion systems happy
  • Eat more meals instead of more food
    • Carry a small snack with you
    • Eat slowly.  Enjoy what you are tasting.
    • Restaurant meals can save time and are great for socializing but the proportions are almost always too large.
      • When you go to a restaurant, eat half of what you are served and then immediately ask for the rest to be wrapped up.
      • You may end up eating the other half only 3 hours later.  This is still a victory: You won’t be hungry again for something like of 6 hours total instead of 4.

The details of eating:  Protein, Fiber, Carbohydrates, Fat

  • Protein
    • You need a variety of simple proteins to build your body.  (These simple proteins are also called amino acids.)
      • Not all proteins are simple – some are made of simple ones put together.
      • The body takes in proteins of all kinds and breaks them down into the simple ones it needs.
    • Almost everything you eat that is natural contains some amount of protein.
      • The kinds of simple proteins and their proportions is different from one food to the next.
    • A food that contains all the simple proteins you need, or breaks down into them, is called a “complete protein” food.
      • Meat and eggs and soy are common examples
      • You don’t need to eat a “complete protein” food all the time, or ever.  You can mix and match different foods to cover the complete set of simple proteins you need.
    • Now that you know this, keep it in the back of your head but don’t obsess about it
      • Eating a variety of foods will almost always cover your protein needs, even if you are a vegetarian.
  • Fiber
    • This is structural stuff you can’t digest directly but can help digest other things
      • A.k.a fiber, roughage
    • Think of this like packing material.  You are shipping nutrition from outside your body to your digestive system..  If it’s packaged the right way, it will arrive safely and can be unpacked easily.
      • This can have a big influence, for example the “glycemic index” of carbohydrates (how hard the sugar hits you), or the ability of your body to absorb certain vitamins.
  • Carbohydrates, a.k.a. carbs.
    • There are two measures for carbs
      • How much in raw energy
      • How hard (fast) it hits you
    • Modern life is drowning in carbs
      • How much you need is a factor of two things:
        • The shape you are currently in
        • The amount you are exercising
    • So the thing to think about is how hard it hits you
      • Sugar makes you feel good at first. It’s like dumping fuel into an engine.
      • But the harder it hits you the hotter the engine runs
      • Imagine an engine running too fast, getting too hot, slowly getting warped and cracked.  It will run worse over time.  You will feel this.
        • Some of this slow damage is not reversible!
      • Eventually you will be tempted to feel good by dumping even more sugar into your broken-down engine.  Your body will choke on the fuel.
        • The more you do this, the more your body will choke.
      • Eventually you will develop a condition called “diabetes”
    • Be introspective.  Notice when you are looking for a sugar rush just to feel good. Set a limit:
      • “I will do this once every other day.”  Then once every three.
    • Sugary drinks are the worst.  They always hit the hardest.
      • If you do drink one, drink it very slowly.  Make it last.  Spread out the impact.  This has a much greater effect than you think.
  • Fat (and oil)
    • It is not a perfect analogy, but you can understand fats and oils by thinking about the oil that goes into machines.
      • Machines with very small gears need “high grade” oils that flow more easily and stick less, so they don’t get gummed up.
      • Machines with large gears need “medium grade” oils that stick and flow less easily, so they can counteract the grinding together of parts, and disperse heat.
    • Your body uses both high and medium grade oil.
      • The “high grade” stuff is mostly for your brain and nervous system.
      • The “medium grade” stuff is for your joints and skin, or is just burned as energy.
    • Just like an oil refinery, your body can turn the “high grade” stuff into the “medium grade” stuff, but it can’t go in the opposite direction.  If you don’t put “high grade” stuff in, your body will be forced to run without it, and it won’t run as well.
      • Likewise, if you put in “low grade” oil, your body will try and use that, with limited results. 
    • The highest grade stuff comes from fish, and to a lesser degree certain plants and seeds.
    • The medium and low grade stuff comes from a variety of sources.
    • Most of the oil you will take in will be mixed in with other foods.
      • The vast majority of it will be from fried foods.
      • Unfortunately, almost all fried foods use “low grade” oil.
    • In general, aim for “high grade” stuff when you can get it, and “medium grade” when you can’t.
      • Examples of medium grade, in descending order of preference:  Olive oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, sesame oil, canola oil, etc

Exercise

  • The best way to get in shape is with MILD exercise.
    • Hard exercise is generally only for building muscle mass.
    • Mild exercise is kind to your joints, has plenty of rest breaks, and is consistent.
    • If the mild exercise spontaneously turns into hard exercise but you’re enjoying it, that’s fine.
      •  The best exercise is the kind you don’t notice getting because you’re having fun.
  • Try and do something that fits in with your day.
    • Walk at an unhurried pace instead of driving, if you can.
    • Ride a bike instead of driving, if you can.
    • Do some work or activity that requires a variety of body positions
      • Yoga, gardening, some kinds of housecleaning
    • Play with your dog or cat
      • Fetch, frisbee, go for a run or walk, drag a feather toy around the house on a string
    • Play with your kids or friends
      • Meet up and go bowling.  Go to the playground and climb around with them.
      • Some of the happiest and most consistent exercise is found this way.
  • Gym memberships are a notorious money suck, but they can be helpful for a routine.
    • If you think you need a gym:
      • Find a local gym with an easy commute that fits your day.
      • Go to it and sign up with the specific intention of canceling your membership as soon as they will allow you to without penalty. This is usually one or two months. Set an alarm for this on your phone.
        • Go every other day at most.  Do not go back-to-back days.
      • Go as often as you want for that time.  When the alarm comes up, set it again for another month.
        • Did you get your moneys’ worth this month?  No?  Cancel the membership IMMEDIATELY.
        • This is not a defeat.  The gym is failing to provide you with a service and environment that suits you.
    • Do not believe that you need to punish yourself on heavy loads.
    • You shouldn’t end the visit feeling completely trashed.  That’s for bodybuilder types who want to get big at the expense of their long-term health.
  • If you’re a geeky type, get some hardware to track your progress.
    • An Apple Watch, used or new, series 2 or beyond, is a great companion
    • A fitbit is also handy, or any gps recorder that you can use to build up a record of your progress.

That's 17 bakeries open after 7:00pm, within a 5 minute walk of the apartment.

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Rough notes on using European trains for bicycle touring

September 6, 2019 by Filed under Advice

  • Denmark trains:
    • There is a separate region for trains in the northern country with different logistics
      • Usually small.
      • Quite easy to roll your bike on and stand next to it.
      • At some stations you will need to exit the small train and transfer to another one to continue in the direction you want.
    • Stations are relatively small and easy to navigate
    • Buy a ticket in their app or at local kiosks, which take credit cards.
    • Tickets are collected by a conductor
    • In south Denmark, trains are larger.
      • There are designated bike cars. When the train approaches, look for the symbol of a bike on the outside of the car.
      • There are nominal location numbers given for your bike but it does not seem to matter much.
      • You may not realize it at first but the larger trains have electrical outlets over the seats.
      • It is casually acceptable to just find an open seat and sit in it, until someone with a ticket for that seat comes along.
  • German trains:
    • These are usually double-decker trains.
    • A conductor will come around on the train and check your ticket.
    • Certain cars are designated for bikes.
      • When the train approaches, look for the symbol of a bike on the outside of the car.
    • German train stations are much busier, often much dirtier and more confusing.
    • You can buy regular tickets at a kiosk but you will need to go to the ticket counter to purchase a ticket for your bike.
    • On the bike cars, the bike goes into the lower deck. Find an open spot and strap your bike in place.
    • The competition for spaces can get pretty intense. People will try and pile their bikes on any which way.
    • To make room you may need to remove your bags.
    • If you have a first class ticket, you can go upstairs to a really nice work area with desks and outlets.
  • Germany-to-Netherlands trains:
    • A conductor will come around and ask for your ticket.
    • Certain cars are designated for bikes.
      • When the train approaches, look for the symbol of a bike on the outside of the car.
      • It’s usually the car on the end of the train, but be aware that the train can change direction in the station.
    • You will need to drag your bike up two steps to get it onto the car.
    • This can be a huge pain and you will probably need to remove your bags.
    • Your bike needs to go in a designated numbered holder in the bike car.
      • Refer to your bike transport ticket.
    • To fit the bike in the holder you may need to remove your bags and place them on the shelf above.
    • If there is space you can just hang out in the bike car. Otherwise, find your numbered seat and claim it.
  • Netherlands trains:
    • Often a few minutes late.
    • Google Maps has incomplete information for local trains.
      • Use the official app instead.
    • You use your ticket to badge-in and badge-out of the platform area.
      • Nobody will check it on the train.
    • To get your bike through, badge your ticket at the gate for handicapped access. It’s wider than the others.
    • You can buy tickets at kiosks, which accept credit cards, contactless payment (Apple Pay), and euro coins.
    • You need a ticket for yourself and a separate one for your bike.
    • Take care to buy a ticket for your bike that is designated for your entire trip – within the Netherlands or international.
    • If you need an international bike ticket you may need to buy it at a counter.
    • Certain cars are designated for bikes.
      • When the train approaches, look for the symbol of a bike on the outside of the car.
      • It is almost always the last car in the train.
    • Bikes are not allowed on trains at all during commute hours. Confirm when those hours are.
      • This is a huge pain for bike tourists.
      • But it explains why there are hundreds or thousands of bikes locked up outside all the major train stations.
  • Belgium trains:
    • Larger stations can be confusing because they will merge unceremoniously with other businesses.

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The Faroe Islands

August 29, 2019 by Filed under Curious Tagged with

The ship ticked along. I organized photos and did some writing, and did my best to sleep in the confined space of the bunks. The earplugs and facemask helped.

Current course, plotted course.

Research data collected by the ship during the journey.

By the time the Faroe Islands hove into view, I was desperate to get outside again. The sudden confinement after weeks of open space was twisting my emotions. I felt like a cat stuffed in a carrier box.

All mountains in the Faroe Islands have nipples on them.

The wet air and the green, uncluttered hills were a cross between Iceland and the pictures I’d seen of the English coast. Less snow than Iceland, fewer trees than England.

Approaching Tórshavn.

As soon a the garage opened and cars began spewing out, I joined the parade. I was immediately dropped into a very bicycle-averse tangle of narrow streets and impatient drivers.

The street is charming, and reminds me of Iceland, but I'm distracted by the campaign poster for BJØRT.

There's a license place I've never cycled behind before ... it says FO in the corner.

I so didn’t care… It was great just to be outside the belly of that steel beast.

Definitely a nordic influence here.

I didn’t have very much time, so I wasn’t confident I could range very far from the harbor. Instead I made a few random turns and then called up a map on my phone and steered for the nearest coffee shop. There I found a supply of filtered water and some incredible chocolate pie, both of which I smuggled back onto the ship.

It's first-world for sure! Here I am enjoying some amazingly good chocolate pie.

The chocolate pie was so good, and the chocolate on the ship was so bad, that I snuck some pie aboard.

The water on the ship is horrible too. Either you buy it in really expensive bottles, or you bring your own supply. I filled this in the Faroe Islands.

The atmosphere was pleasant. I drank a mocha and worked for a while. Then the weather took a turn for the worse, and since I didn’t have my rain gear I reluctantly packed things up and returned to the ship.

Tomorrow would be a full day at sea, and then I’d arrive in Denmark, effectively ending the bicycling portion of my journey. From there it would be mostly train travel.

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Leaving on the ferry

August 28, 2019 by Filed under Introspection, Stress Tagged with

Waiting patiently for scraps. My contribution was a piece of bacon saved from dinner.

I shall name her Brunhilde!

Cats know what is best in life!

I said goodbye to Brunhilde, then made my way to the giant boat.

That's the boat that will take me out of Iceland.

The cyclists were all told to wait in a line together, than dispatched all at once into the belly of the beast.

Lots of cars loading up.

Guides with radios and greasy uniforms directed us to a corner.

This guy directed me to the right spot on the deck for bikes.

We tethered our bikes in place with whatever we could find. In a few days, after stopping at the Faroe islands, the area around us would be packed almost solid with truck trailers. The ferry was obviously a major supply route.

Kick-standed, tagged, and roped in place. for the journey.

My first task on the ship was to convert some of my Icelandic Króna (ISK) to Danish Krone (DKK). Good thing the Danes are scrupulous people because it would be easy to scam tourists: One currency is worth about twenty times the other.

The last of my Icelandic coinage.

New country, new money.

Next I had to find a locker to store my stuff. I didn’t feel comfortable carrying it around on my back, and I didn’t want to leave it by my bedside. The lockers were coin operated and cost the equivalent of about two dollars every time you opened one. At least they were spacious.

Everything you need to carry around, when you have a locker: Your badge, the locker key, and enough coins to open it six more times.

Plenty of room to store all the things I'll need, since I can't access my bike.

About 2/3 of the lockers had keys broken off in them. The work of some disgruntled passenger.

Finally found one with a usable key. Accidentally turned it the wrong way after I put in the first coin. Two bucks wasted...

The sleeping area was more “hostel” than the hostel I’d just left. All five of my bunkmates were men, since the rooms were split by gender for safety purposes. (Nevertheless, on day two of the trip, a woman began sleeping in one of the bunks, intertwined with her lover. Exceptions to the rule!)

Heavy swinging doors so people didn't have to constantly fumble with noisy handles.

It was only bearable because everyone was as quiet as possible.

Yeah, it was as cramped as it looks.

I prepared my bed and locked up most of my gear, then went upstairs and had my first open-faced Danish sandwich. I ate it with a knife and fork like a proper gentleman, as my mother taught me!

Eating my first open-faced sandwich with a knife and fork, like a civilized person.

The boat got underway and Iceland began to slide past the window, then move to the horizon. I wandered around the ship for a while and did some more writing.

Question:
Do you feel like the physical end of the trip coincided with some emotional or mental resolutions?
Answer:
In the movie version, of course it would. But real life is messier than that…

Yeah — in the movie, I would suddenly reach a whole pile of amazing conclusions in my head just a day or two before closing the lid on the bicycle box and riding the shuttle to the airport for the flight home. Then I’d be looking out the window of the plane, all smiling and fulfilled, as credits began to roll up the side of the sky.

Reality didn’t have such a great sense of timing. But about 3/4 of the way through the ride I did get to a weird place in my head, and I think the best way to describe it is with a metaphor about travel:

In the time before by decision to go on this journey, there had been a giant slow-moving explosion in my emotional landscape. When I pedaled away from civilization – probably best identified as the city of Reykjavik – I was also pedaling away from the center of that explosion — and as I moved along, I found pieces.

Some of those pieces were twisted and unrecognizable at first, but clearly part of myself, so I picked them up and carried them.  Then there were parts that I found sitting on undisturbed ground, obscured by weeds. They had been discarded before the explosion, when I was going somewhere else.  I picked those up too.

Every night I would arrange them around me and try to make them fit together. Hammer at a few of them. Some I connected with and took into myself. I found my love of in-depth conversation; I found my joy at open spaces and quiet presence in them; I found my curiosity of the natural world.  (That piece was fully intact, and I realized I’d dropped it quite a long time ago when I stopped pushing to go on nature-oriented trips with my ex.)

I found my enthusiasm for writing.  I found pieces of my ability to stand up for what I needed. Somewhere around the crossing to Flatey Island I had a little epiphany that I wrote down in one short sentence: There is often a difference between what I want, and what other people want me to want, and I’m tired of ignoring the first in favor of the second. Even if it would make someone really happy for me to want or like or care about something, if I don’t feel that way, I really shouldn’t defer to their happiness.

I think my struggle with that has been a struggle with confrontation, and with the part of me that wants to please the people around me. I’m very fortunate to have the time and independence to work on it; to even have the choice, instead of circumstances making it for me.

I saw this view a lot.

Over the next couple of days I would often find myself sitting on the floor of the locker room, down in the depths of the ship, listening to the throbbing of the engine. It was the only place anywhere that had a door I could close, allowing me to be entirely alone for extended periods of time. I was still too used to the wilderness.

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A day off to wrap up

August 27, 2019 by Filed under Amused, Curious, Introspection Tagged with

The sound of people and cars outside in the street was unfamiliar after so many days in the wilderness. I woke up early, took an awkward rinse in the weird, fragile-looking shower, and packed my gear onto the bike in touring configuration for the last time. Tomorrow I would be rearranging things for travel on the ferry boat: I’d separate my sleeping gear and laptop into a backpack, and the rest would be stowed on the bicycle in a locked cargo area with a bunch of parked cars.

Loading everything up in touring mode one final time.

I rode around town for a while, enjoying the fact that I had no destination or budget of miles to ride today.

Welcome to Seydisfjordur. No fishing on the bridge!

Eventually I settled in a restaurant next to the one I’d visited the other night. A cycle tourist was there, all fresh-looking and clean because he had just rolled off the ferry boat and was preparing to head East, retracing my steps.

Justin is heading out on the Iceland portion of his seven-month tour. Go go go!

Justin is built for speed, and his gear weighs about half mine. He’ll rocket up that scary mountainside and arrive in Egilsstaðer before dinner! I’m glad I got some touring done in my early 30’s so I could experience it when I still had that level of energy. Now I’m slow and cautious and thoughtful. And I like fish and chips way more than I should!

With some time to spare, I answered some thoughtful questions from friends and family.

Question:
How do you feel now that the Iceland crossing is done?
Answer:
I’m feeling proud, accomplished, validated, and more than a little surprised.

Proud and accomplished because of the miles I’ve covered, and the fact that I did it as I intended:  Without any bus, train, or other wheeled transport, in an unbroken line, with the exception of the boat rides.

Validated, and definitely surprised, because the equipment and the bike worked so well.  I was over-prepared, and sent some cooking equipment and electronic toys home midway through, but I never felt like I was lacking for a piece of gear.

For example, the combination of waterproof socks, gore-tex pants and jacket, rain hat, wool sweater, wool cap, sweats, hiking socks, and sandals let me add layers one at a time as the day got colder, all the way up to the coldest day I experienced. More than once I remember being confused by the sensations I was feeling, because I was standing next to the bike while 30+ mile-per-hour wind was slapping freezing rain into my body, and I felt perfectly warm and dry.

I’m also feeling a strange ambivalence about returning to the US, and getting back to work.  I like my job: The people are fantastic and the work is challenging. But on the other hand, I’ve validated this set of hardware, and I’m way closer to “touring shape” than I was when I started, and I feel like I’ve only barely begun to see all the amazing things out in the world through this mode of transport.  The trip feels just long enough – or perhaps almost long enough – to complete a transformation, from my rooted self to my compact and traveling adventure self.  And now that transformation will have to run in reverse. That’s a bit disappointing.

Still, there are creature comforts I miss about Oakland.  The weather.  The easy access to amazing food of almost every kind, with multiple options of each.  The cornucopia of cultural experiences, always renewing and changing.  The high concentration of computer geeks.  I can set up a chair in the park and read, and watch the sun creep down the cool granite of the monuments.  I can unfold the laptop in a coffee shop — one of a rotating list of lovely places to think and write, where the staff know me by name.

I can hold my cat.

There are things I am definitely going to miss, and eventually pine for, about touring as well.  The fact that I can get aerobic exercise for hours every day in an ever-changing and sometimes challenging and breathtaking environment.  The direct exposure to smells and fresh wind and weather and living things.  The excited discussions with fellow travelers.  The firehose onslaught of new thoughts, triggered by random things on the road, in endless combination.

And probably most of all, how sometimes during the day – and almost always during the night – I can stop the bike at any random time, and there I am: Outside, in a quiet open space in the middle of nowhere.

So yeah, it’s complicated. But for now, in the careful balance of things, home is my destination of choice.

Question:
Do you feel like you’ve had enough time in Iceland?
Answer:
Part of me will never feel like I’ve had enough time in Iceland. I can imagine myself living an entire life in Iceland, roaming over the hills, and resting among my fellow quiet introverts.

There’s always less time than we want for journeys like this. It would have been amazing to cross the center of Iceland like I was planning, but I’d need another month to do it right. I could have easily dropped another two weeks into the terrain I covered in the last 4 days, and still not felt like it was enough — like I was slowing down enough. Actually, what would it take, to go slow enough? Would I have to abandon the bike and walk? How about if I crawled across the landscape, inspecting each rock in detail, and pausing every five minutes to meditate and listen to the wind? I could cross Iceland that way in a mere five years. Would that be slow enough? Bah.

I looked back over my GPS recordings and recreated something close to the equivalent with Google Maps:

The route I ended up riding, after making some on-the-fly changes.

750 miles is a pretty epic ride, especially with so many hills. I can be happy with that.

I sorted photos and made notes, and ate an early dinner in the pub. Then I went tootling around on my bike for a while.

This quaint rainbow road leads from the main restaurant in town to the door of the church.

I'm going to assume without checking that this sculpture is the same shape as the fjord seen from above.

Is this a punk band? Name like that, it should be.

Whatever's in here, it's bound to be wacky.

After that I went to the hostel, where I would be spending my final night on Icelandic shores. While I was checking in, a kitty colonized my bike.

Apparently someone has taken my seat.

Way too cute to move.

I shall name her Brunhilde!

The welcoming committee outside the hostel.

After hanging out with the fuzzy welcoming committee for a while longer, I went browsing around the building. It had a huge kitchen with a dozen people mingling in it. Several meals were in progress on the stove and countertop. I sat down for a while and checked in with work, enjoying the indirect presence of people and the indirect sunlight.

The Lagarfljót wyrm!!

The first floor of the hostel. Does it seem like a converted hospital? That's because it is.

Old stairs, typically narrow.

In spite of all my traveling, I’d never stayed in a hostel before. This would be my first experience with one. As I scoped out the rooms I felt like the lack of privacy was going to make me nervous. How could I protect all my gear? But then I remembered: I’m in Iceland. A local stealing so much as a candy bar would probably feel so ashamed that she’d return and leave some money where she took it from.

Upstairs in the hostel.

I picked the bed by the open window. With my earplugs and sleep mask it was comfortable.

Standing around in the room, looking at all the beds, the fact that I was in a way-station for tourists returned to me, and I decided to use a little more caution. The clerk at the desk downstairs told me about a janitorial closet down in the basement that was nicely concealed, so I stripped all my bags off my bike and stacked them down there before setting up my bed.

The Icelandic sunlight hours were still very long. The other people in the room were probably glad that I’d taken the bed by the window, but I had earplugs and a sleep mask. I applied them and slowly drifted off. The final night in this country would pass without fanfare, and that was fine.

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