From country to city

I packed up early in the morning. There was plenty of daylight to see by of course, since this time of year “night” is mostly of a state of mind.

Decked out and ready for more adventuring.

I headed out on the coastal road instead of returning to the highway. A few days ago I’d scanned ahead using satellite view on my phone, and confirmed it was paved. It was a nice discovery and a lovely road; far more interesting than the main one.

Ahh, those cute flowers!

I was on it for about two hours, and that entire time I was not passed by a single car in either direction. Delightful!

Cold and spooky!
The windy, wet road ahead.
Is this the result of a hundred years of birds nesting?
Bird on the lookout.
I assume this is where the postal worker delivers the packages.
If this were in Oakland, it would be an art collective surrounded by a homeless camp.
It looked neat, but not neat enough for me to make a detour.
Cold winters can destory anything eventually.

A bird posed for me on a ruined house, so I lingered for a while, lining up a shot and chomping a handful of peanuts — the very last of my food.

The bird posed for me.

I took some video of the tundra-like volcanic landscape and the modest farmsteads, feeling glad for my layers of clothing.

“This is what it’s like to cross the interior,” I thought. “Except the interior is more barren, colder, and has far worse roads, including river crossings. So, hmm. Maybe it’s not really like this at all.” An idea was percolating in my head to diverge from the coast somewhere along my tour, but I didn’t have details yet.

There were some gravel patches but the ground was hard beneath, so the bike handled them well.  I was tempted to think it would do well on the gravel roads farther upland, but experience told me there would be deep gravel and even mud up there. My skinny tires would have trouble.

Eventually the coastal road crossed under the main highway and turned into gravel beyond it, so I switched to the highway.

Back on the main highway, headed toward the capital!

Fortunately I didn't have to go down this road.

I rolled onto the wide shoulder and started the audiobook “Collapse: How Societies Choose To Fail Or Succeed”, and skipped to the chapter about the Vikings and the colonization of Iceland, Greenland, and other areas. The cars that shot past me were a strong reminder of the forces at play here.

Iceland is the most ecologically damaged country in Europe.  It’s generally the fault of the Vikings.  During the relatively brief time they were here trying all their traditional survival methods, they deforested the island by over 80 percent.  Today, Iceland is 94 percent deforested.  Almost all the trees that remain have been behind fences that shield them from grazing animals.

What's that they say about rolling stones? Pfft.

The other major disaster has been soil erosion.  Relative to other places the vikings were familiar with, soil in Iceland dries up and blows away very quickly.  Large areas of it are accumulated volcanic ash, built up over thousands of years and then held down by plants.  The vikings ripped up the plants or burned them to make space for crops, and the soil disappeared almost before their eyes.

The parable of the three little pigs ends here.

I think of this, and then I think of being a kid back home in the politically left-leaning town of Santa Cruz, and the history I was taught where colonizers from Europe displaced and murdered the indigenous people of North America and began changing the face of the continent. I’d been told the continent was essentially a static place before Europeans arrived, and that the people before them had lived in a state of harmony with their surroundings, and their societies were egalitarian and peaceful, and they were generally disease and hardship free until colonizers came along with infections and guns and horses and corrupted and ruined everything for them.

It was a well-meaning mixture of history and mythology, designed to be an antidote – a corrective – to the patriotic nonsense that existed around me, about America somehow being destined to occupy the lands it claimed. It was meant to counter the cultural imperialism that lingers even now, driven originally by an intense racism, where the colonizers believed it was their duty to “civilize” lands being held by “primitive” people, and confine or exterminate them if they resisted. The early American story is basically naked opportunism justified by religious dogma and buttressed by ignorance, and this needs to be acknowledged. A larger part of the culture wants to pretend this history never happened, and my teachers and peers in Santa Cruz felt (and I still strongly feel) that letting America forget it is the first decisive step in letting it repeat.

But the tribes of America had not been perfect back then. They were an astonishingly diverse collection of peoples spread across a giant area of land and they were as different as they were alike, each struggling with warfare, slavery, subsistence, disease, and ecological damage on their own terms. They also did change the face of the continent long before Europeans arrived, primarily through deforestation in the east, by using fire for various purposes over a span of about 2000 years. These aspects of their history were left out of my early education, because it was trying to correct for a larger, more dangerous misconception, and to counter the absurd assumption that the indigenous Americans were “primitive.” Their ecological destruction through attempts at land management was not relevant to the case.

But I have to wonder: How much mythologizing is healthy here? If you smooth the wrinkles out of a portrait too well, it seems to me you run the risk of turning the subject into something unreal. Something that exists apart from contemporary life. You drive a wedge between the history, and the flesh-and-blood people who are the living embodiment of it today, who have practical needs and problems and need to be considered part of your own world, rather than an abstraction or an irretrievable myth. Perhaps too much mythologizing becomes an “othering” — a sort of reinforcement of a separation that in turn preserves a power imbalance.

Undoubtedly, the larger struggle has been in simply getting American culture to recognize that the native tribes have a history, full stop. That American history didn’t just start with Columbus blundering his plunder-boats across the ocean, and you can’t understand the foundations of the country without knowing what the native tribes contributed to it. But beyond that, and possibly more important for the sake of those living now, is the need to get Americans to notice that the native tribes are still here. The history – but also the exploitation, and the exclusion, and the bigotry, and the disenfranchisement – has marched on this entire time, and viewing these people through the lens of the past tends to defocus them in the present. It’s worth knowing who they are now, what they’re talking about now, what they need now.

This was all rolling around, back and forth, in my mind as I pedaled along, in the pauses between sentences as Jared Diamond outlined the grim history of Iceland. At its most abstract, what I was thinking about was a collision of mythologies, and also the use of mythology as an instrument, to humanize or dehumanize people, as the tellers felt necessary.

I began to consider the Vikings through the same lens. The modern people of Iceland have embraced even the apocryphal operatic horned helmet in honor of the Vikings. It’s on their walls, clothing, even their roadsigns. The mythology seems harmless and fun; a source of entertainment if not of a very mixed sense of pride for a population that can still trace itself almost entirely back to Viking ancestors — or at least, to the women and children the Vikings abducted from elsewhere. But, what are we celebrating here? Certainly not their stewardship of the land.

Yes, the helmet has horns. I don't know what to think of that.

Short summary: The Vikings showed up, and knowing very little about ecology and having no free time to study it, they chopped down almost every damn tree in a dozen generations. They pillaged, kidnapped, and enslaved people to drive their civilization for 300 years, then succumbed to their own mismanagement and infighting, leaving behind ruins, tiny sheep, and beleaguered fishermen, who converted to Christianity and kept on keepin’ on for hundreds of years through famine and volcanic mayhem as they were absorbed into a Nordic trading bureaucracy and mostly exploited by it.

Finally around World War I, Iceland regained independence, and so-called modern civilization quickly arrived on the heels of wartime activity. Now the island is ringed by a paved road, multiple international shipping routes, and a giant airport. In less than a hundred years, life has gotten far easier and safer for everyone, but the ecological pressure has also gotten far worse. Determined ecologists are running experiments to restore trees, and farmers are a lot more conscious of soil conditions, but the trend is still downward, and the tourism dollar is a seriously mixed blessing.

I wonder how much of the Icelandic people’s embrace of the Vikings is myth-making for tourists. Is there a similar pressure in their culture, like in modern Americans, to forget the atrocities of their ancestors? And how much more selective does all of this look, when we consider that there’s about six hundred years of history separating the end of the Vikings and the beginning of modern Icelandic society that is not factored in? Is it too boring? Too sparse to comment upon? Perhaps it’s just not currently useful in our current battles over tourism and ecology?

There is, I suppose, one inevitable outcome, if you take the long view. In time, Iceland will experience another catastrophic volcanic eruption, intense enough to drive out and blast away the humans and everything they have wrought, leaving behind a cooling hunk of re-fertilized land. The best we can do with that is detect it far enough in advance to get out of the way.

Hopefully this trip won't end up in hell!

Anyway, I poked some thoughts into my phone and pedaled along, and a bunch of hours passed. The area urbanized around me. I arrived at the hotel I’d booked online.

It was 7:00am, and there was a crowd of people with luggage standing around outside. I assumed they were either waiting for a shuttle or waiting for breakfast.  Taking a closer look, I saw all of them were rough-looking men, some smoking cigarettes one after the other.  To their credit, they scrupulously collected and disposed of each butt they stamped out on the pavement.

The lobby opened and everyone crowded inside for the free breakfast.  I talked to the clerk and he said the hotel had been full the previous night so I would have to wait for a room to be cleaned, which would probably take three hours.  “Sorry,” he said, “but maybe have some coffee or something while you wait?”  He gestured to the breakfast area.

So I filled up a plate and ate six slices of bread with a heap of tuna and a slice of cheese on each one, plus two hard-boiled eggs. It was touring metabolism, back in force.

Another free breakfast, this one much fancier than the last!

Around me I counted heads and observed that there were almost 30 men, all dressed either for work or for hiking.  Some had fancy gore-tex jackets and hiking shoes, some had overalls and toolbelts.  One table had six electricians at it – at least, judging by the tools – all glowering at their plates and chowing down.  Almost no one spoke.

I was one of them.  I ate until I felt full, then took the bike a few blocks over to the Bónus food store, which I can’t help thinking of as the “Piggly Wiggly of Iceland.”

I know that’s supposed to be an accent mark, but to my non-Icelandic eye it looks like that pig is being sliced with a razor blade.

The bakery attached to the store was already open, so I wandered inside and got some additional snacks.

It's all about the bakeries.

I hate to say it, but they look tastier than they actually are.

I spent about an hour organizing photos since my brain was too fried to work, then packed up again and went to the hotel.  The clerk walked over and handed me a key card.  “Room 433, fourth floor,” he said.

I thanked him sincerely.  Several elevator trips later, with my gear and the bike, I was safe in room 433, burrowing under the covers at 10:00 in the morning.

First step when you get into a hotel room: Close all those day-blocking curtains.

I woke up after almost 7 hours of sleep.  Took a shower, drank some water, went right back to sleep.

Two hours later I woke up again.  Finally I felt rested enough to use my brain and get some work done.

Iceland Redux: Is Bicycle Touring Romantic Doom?

I have a lifelong habit of continuing in uncomfortable situations that are predictable and safe, rather than changing the situation in some uncomfortable way to pursue a greater happiness that is not guaranteed. I’m sure we all suffer from this habit to a degree, but I feel like it’s really messed with my life. It’s too easy to reinforce, because playing it safe today is more likely to get you to tomorrow.

At many points in my life I have also used the possible inconvenience of other people as an excuse to delay my actions, without consulting the people involved. This is the worst kind of selfishness, based on the conceited idea that you know better than other people what they would choose if they had all the facts.

In the depths of this kind of self-imposed purgatory, I’ve often asked myself the question, “If I keep doing it, what am I doing it for?” After all, if I didn’t derive some strong benefit from this pathology I would have ditched it long ago. Over time I’ve realized that the reason is subtle, but powerful: I keep trying to play a role, of someone who is as stable and committed and undemanding as the masculine role models I aspired to early in life. And while there definitely is a part of me that is remarkably stable – you need to have nerves of steel to deal with many aspects of long range bike touring, complex software development, and living in Oakland – there is also a part of me that is intense, difficult, boundary-pushing, and swings between craving solitude and craving disruptive, creative mayhem.

Without hard-won wisdom to temper it, this disposition has the following outward appearance: I find something that works really well and do it happily for long stretches of time, running it to ground, and then with little external warning or apparent reason, I abandon it and make a lateral leap into something else. Sometimes I leap a few times very quickly. Then I find the next thing that works really well and burrow into it, for another long stable run.

The tempering wisdom is this: Being entirely stable is not the goal to aspire to, despite what the role models – of cowboys, and suburban husbands, and workaday dads – were insisting to me when I was young. The goal is to safely integrate change and adventure with the rest of your life, and the people in it. And that includes advocating for what you need in relationships, with a mixture of insistence and empathy, instead of being quietly discontent. And knowing the difference between what you really need, and what just sounds good because it would make you feel better. (Or eventually, feel anything.)

In the recent past I have not been particularly good at applying this wisdom, so I feel like I need to nail it down in words right now, and re-read it a few times to myself for good measure.

Now it’s time to take a left turn into a major part of my life: Bicycle touring.

DCF 1.0
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DCF 1.0

For a long time I believed that my desire to go on long-range tours was pathological. I believed I was either obsessed with the idea of touring because it was a convenient distraction from other problems in my life and a good excuse to avoid “settling down”, or I believed it was a kind of curse because if I went on long-range tours I would be logistically unsuitable as a partner for a committed romantic relationship. And for almost all my adult life, I’ve always either been in, or been eagerly pursuing, a committed romantic relationship. So it’s either a case of: I’m avoiding my problems, or I’m screwing myself out of what I want.

Over the last ten years, without really understanding what I was doing, I tried multiple times to make a specific compromise to this: Having my romantic partner go with me on these journeys. One time I outright pitched the idea, and helped her shop for a bike, but she was physically unsuited to such long rides and found it miserable. Other times the idea arose organically, but got derailed by my own lack of experience guiding people comfortably into it. The most recent time I approached it with a healthy skepticism: My partner was already interested in touring before I met her, and as we got to know each other she casually set about buying a touring bike and gathering gear and discussing potential trips, and I soft-pedaled the pursuit because I needed to be sure she wasn’t doing it because she thought it was necessary for getting closer to me. Meanwhile, whether these relationships were going well or going poorly, the desire to go on bike tours remained.

In fact I began to be plagued increasingly by a grand vision of going on a bike tour around the entire world, which would charge into the front of my mind and thoroughly distract me, then vanish for a while. It got the most intense a few years ago, when I found myself newly single, and with the financial and logistical means for the first time to actually attempt such a thing. I traveled for three months and then deliberately set it aside to attend to other matters in life, involving my family and career, and though I was not entirely at peace with the decision, it felt like the right one. I realized I could pick up the epic journey where I left off, and do it in segments. I planned the next segment with my nephew, and folded it into a foreign vacation with a big chunk of my family. We did practice rides and I made an itinerary and bought plane tickets. It was going to be awesome! Then COVID blasted those plans apart.

I shrugged my shoulders and planned some smaller trips. I was exploring a long-term relationship during COVID times anyway, and put most of my attention into that and my job. At the end of last year I went on a pretty epic trip with my nephew, then jumped through a series of exhausting COVID-related logistical hoops to get myself to the East Coast to visit my significant other, but when I arrived I was exhausted and uncomfortable and she was distracted, and then some absurd drama piled on top of that. I suddenly found myself entirely alone on the wrong side of the country with a bike and a pile of gear, three days from my birthday, with a massive storm approaching. It was another logistical nightmare getting out of that, with repercussions that took months to sort out.

The foul taste of that experience informed my most recent span of dating: I became convinced that any attempts to combine my bike touring plans with my romantic life would turn into a disaster, and the only sane option was to put one on hold in favor of the other. That worked for a good while, then the “grand tour” idea ran rampant in my mind again and I decided the only way to be rid of it was to clear everything else from my life – developing romance included – and just do it. I put a plan together, and then it was immediately derailed by a family emergency that made me reassess what I was doing. Instead, once things were under control again back home, I assembled a much smaller and easier trip, a return to a known quantity I wanted more time to explore: Iceland.

Detail of the Carta marina created by Swedish ecclesiastic Olaus Magnus and initially published in 1539

In this era of my life, after so much experience, I can confidently say that I am not pursuing bike tours in order to avoid problems at home. I go on bike tours, and I have problems, but the two don’t correlate any more than other parts of my life. Still, they are great fun to think about, and I am guilty of obsessively planning the next one when my attention would be more useful elsewhere. It’s taken a lot of effort to move away from that habit. It helps that I’ve accumulated a big list of potential trip plans I can just dip randomly into when there’s time for a journey. Many of those are suitable for casual bike tourists, and perhaps I’ll start a relationship with someone with that level of interest, and we’ll explore those together. But I don’t need that to feel fulfilled.

Now I’m happily single, and embarking on another bike tour, and the other potential pathology comes to the foreground: Am I no good for a long-term relationship with all this traveling? Does a hobby like this really factor me out as a desirable romantic partner?

I don’t believe that any more. I found a pretty good compromise in my last long-term relationship, with frequent enthusiastic sharing and check-ins and the engineering of visits along the way, and in retrospect that relationship died on its own terms, for its own reasons. That said, I do know I’m not in a position to start or nurture a long-term relationship while touring — without some pretty specific coloring outside the lines of courtship. And I’m okay with that. What matters to me right now is the adventure I’m having, the work I’m doing, the stories I get to share with my family and the plans I can make to involve them, and so on. The bike touring is not the lateral leap; it’s not the unstable question mark, it’s not the vision quest or the segue into something else. It’s a part of who I am long-term, and it can fit into other things without crowding them out. It provides a measure of both the solitude and the creative mayhem that I need in my life to complement the stability I desire, and that is extremely useful. I don’t sleep around, I’m not emotionally distant, I don’t escalate conflict, I don’t get drunk and carouse, I don’t blow through my money, I don’t have ridiculous expectations … but I do this. It’s a pretty good package.

I look forward to the next romance, and aspire to make it long term. I’m looking forward to all the sharing, and jokes, and dancing in the kitchen, and the adventures. But dang if I’m not also happy riding around, building software and hanging out with cats.

Knowing

You already know
What you need to be doing
And it isn’t this

A haiku about self-care

The Push To Vegas

I set out in the morning with a much lighter bike, thanks to Matt. Lots of miles to cover!

Getting snacks for the road! Got a much lighter set of luggage today.
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Getting snacks for the road! Got a much lighter set of luggage today.

The weather was hot, but the air was fresh.

Feathery sky in 104 degree heat.
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Feathery sky in 104 degree heat.

As I rode, I thought about the argument I’d seen on Nextdoor the previous day, and the thoughts I’d had about social conflict, and urban versus rural populations, while passing through all those small Nevada towns.

BLM has several popular meanings right now.
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BLM has several popular meanings right now.

My thougts ran like this:

America has had a very public battle with its demons of slavery and racism since forever. “Public” in two senses:

First, there is a constant supply of Americans who believe that the status quo isn’t adequate, including plenty of Americans who believe in changing the status quo even if they struggle with subconscious racism in their hearts. They are politically active, socially active, and vocal.

And second, “public” in the sense of a free press, and because journalism that calls attention to conflict has always been especially popular. Compare this to places like China, where the government has a long and ongoing history, up to the present minute, of abducting entire ethnicities it doesn’t like to go live in forced labor camps, and the “press” is simply forbidden to talk about it, and in fact government censors work to prevent the public from discussing it privately as well.

I wonder how often rainbows actually show up here.
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I wonder how often rainbows actually show up here.

These chilling roadside markers are scattered around town too.
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These chilling roadside markers are scattered around town too.

A loud and public battle is a lot more progressive than a timid, secret one. There are other affluent places in the world whose citizens are collectively shockingly racist, but simply aren’t being challenged by the presence of enough different people to confront it.

America has come a good distance since it was nearly torn apart by an internal war that confused economic interests and human rights. There was a time when bands of white people used to roam the countryside plundering and murdering their white neighbors for not being racist enough. Now that segment is reduced mostly to ghostly online rants in ugly corners of the internet – possibly abetted by foreign agitators – and anarchist morons insinuating themselves into protests to turn them violent.

Pokey plants.
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Pokey plants.

As we all know, it isn’t adequate to end a policy or a tradition of racism and declare the battle won. We have to replace it with something. Real social bonds, real examples of solidarity, everyday exposure. Fewer people willing to listen to monsters on AM radio spreading weird theories about a “grievance industry”. Each of us, personally, really can contribute to that.

What, no fireworks in the dry desert by the roadside? Awww.
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What, no fireworks in the dry desert by the roadside? Awww.

Each of us can go out into the fringes and weeds of our social circle, and find someone who is markedly different; someone whose story we can barely guess at. With just a little bit of bravery and effort, we can connect to them. A short conversation leading to an invitation. A chance to tell a story.

Whenever we do this, we add a thread to the fabric that binds everyone against bigoted ideas and behavior, because those ideas can only take root when there is a separation for them to occupy.

What could be on it???
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What could be on it???

It’s a quiet process. It’s not “virtue signaling”; it’s not going to score points online, but it will make a real difference. If that’s what we really want.

If what we really want is to stop feeling shame for a little while, whether or not progress happens, then we can go ahead and keep screaming into the online void.

Clouds in the evening.
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Clouds in the evening.

Mulling this over, and listening to some podcasts and music, carried me several thousand feet up the mountainside and into the evening. Then I saw this ahead:

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Uh oh. Gonna get cramped ahead.
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Uh oh. Gonna get cramped ahead.

Pretty sketchy, but I can deal with it. Then I noticed this:

What?! Couldn’t you have told me that at the bottom of the hill?
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What?! Couldn’t you have told me that at the bottom of the hill?

Aww come on, where am I gonna go now that I’m up here?

Rather than ride onto the tightly confined lanes of the freeway and risk my life, I decided to roll into the gravel, and chew my way slowly along in relative safety. I have no idea what the construction crew would have said, but they weren’t around to see. The entire work zone was depopulated.

Lots of earth being moved around here.
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Lots of earth being moved around here.

It’s a stuff-squisher!
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It’s a stuff-squisher!

I doubt I’ll be exceeding this.
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I doubt I’ll be exceeding this.

Pedaling up the unpaved opposite lane, clear of the traffic.
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Pedaling up the unpaved opposite lane, clear of the traffic.

The cars are tucked on the other side of a wall for a change.
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The cars are tucked on the other side of a wall for a change.

Looking back down the steep hill.
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Looking back down the steep hill.

Hey look, pavement!
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Hey look, pavement!

Really? You couldn’t even bother to finish the water?
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Really? You couldn’t even bother to finish the water?

At the top of the hill I found a restaurant and RV park. I might have been able to stay here for the night, if I’d known ahead of time. Oh well!

World famous. Suuuure.
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World famous. Suuuure.

I paused for a while to catch my breath and get some neat photos of a Smokey Bear carving, then it was time for the big downhill rush.

Fire station at the top of the hill.
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Fire station at the top of the hill.

Smokey’s message.
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Smokey’s message.

While taking photos I also stopped to marvel at my iPhone. It’s operated in temperatures well over 100 degrees for multiple days. I got a “heat warning” once a few days ago after leaving it in the sun, but it was fine 10 minutes later. It’s endured multiple nasty drops onto the road surface, with no damage. It’s had legitimately impressive battery life even on long days of fighting for a marginal signal. Dang, these gadgets are amazing.

First glimpse of the ocean of lights that is Las Vegas.
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First glimpse of the ocean of lights that is Las Vegas.

Shadowy valleys to the north.
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Shadowy valleys to the north.

Zooooom, I went. For a while I used the construction zone, since it gave me a lane to myself, but I kept worrying that the pavement would suddenly turn into gravel or just end, so I had to grip the brakes. When the construction zone ended I swung out to the shoulder and stayed there, drifting up to speeds above 40mph as trucks slowly moved by.

Whooshing along at 35 miles per hour.
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Whooshing along at 35 miles per hour.

“My iPhone’s been performing well,” I thought, “but that’s distracting me from the real miracle: My body. It’s been wonderful this entire time. I just put in water and food, and sleep, and it just keeps pedaling, day after day.”

Having a body and not having to worry about it, that’s a true blessing. I’ve been through times when I had to worry very much indeed about my body, and I remember how it constantly threatened to sweep everything else off the table, even small daily tasks.

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We get a small rash, some bacterial thing; we dismiss it because we’ve seen it a dozen times before and we’re already thinking ahead to a few days from now when it will be gone. But it’s a reminder. The world is coated with tiny things that are furiously trying to eat us, and if our bodies stopped working for only a few hours those little monsters would make significant progress. We are made of material – through and through – that is food for others, and every day that goes by in our self-assured counting is only possible because our bodies fought mightily to avoid being digested into nothingness. This stays true every second as we are wholly occupied by vague future plans.

Down in the city, rehydrating.
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Down in the city, rehydrating.

Funky bike path.
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Funky bike path.

In less than an hour, I was in the middle of Las Vegas, and heading towards the south-east corner on a series of little roads and bike paths.

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I arrived at Matt’s house very tired and rather hungry, but in good spirits. We immediately started chomping a pile of thai food. Awww yeah!

Getting out dishware for Thai food.
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Getting out dishware for Thai food.

Sure beats the tent!
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Sure beats the tent!

The weather in Vegas and beyond was going to be quite bad for the next few days. High heat and sandstorms. With my options for continuing south severely limited, I realized that today was probably my last full day of biking for this trip. That’s OK; it had been a good one.

Fast Food And Casinos

For the next three days I hunkered down in Pahrump and worked, visiting nearby restaurants for food. Between sessions of writing code I did my own writing, and checked in with friends and family.

Lots of space for bike stuff!
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Lots of space for bike stuff!

One of the roomiest rooms of the trip.
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One of the roomiest rooms of the trip.

I got out a few times just to look around. Pahrump didn’t have much going for it. It felt like just the wrong size — too big to be close-knit and friendly, too small to support fancy shops or a unique culture. Perhaps Las Vegas was stealing all its momentum.

Any city is filled with two categories of residents: People who want to be there, and people who can’t leave. I think the ratio in Pahrump is 10/90.

Want to be a grump from Pahrump? It’ll cost you $18.00.
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Want to be a grump from Pahrump? It’ll cost you $18.00.

Apparently there is a problem with this in Pahrump.
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Apparently there is a problem with this in Pahrump.

Affiliated with the Republican party, or not? Pretty aggressive depiction…
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Affiliated with the Republican party, or not? Pretty aggressive depiction…

A fine Nevada sunset outside the casino.
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A fine Nevada sunset outside the casino.

Washing my gloves in the sink. They get pretty dirty during the day, mostly from doing minor bike adjustments.
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Washing my gloves in the sink. They get pretty dirty during the day, mostly from doing minor bike adjustments.

At the end of the first day, standing outside a fast food joint, I got some nice video of the local bats flitting about:

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In the middle of the second day I made the mistake of logging in to Nextdoor, a social networking site focused on gathering people from the same neighborhood and putting them into the same forum. No matter what neighborhood you start with, the forum always devolves into a mess of passive-aggressive complaints and reports of “suspicious characters” that are often blatant racial profiling.

My neighborhood back in Oakland was no different. This time the Nextdoor turmoil was because someone was circulating a petition to remove all the historical markers from Jack London Square and rename it to something else. Why? Because, according to the petition, “Jack London was a racist who embraced eugenics and forced sterilization.” The author of the petition wasn’t suggesting that we honor anyone in particular as a replacement in Jack London Square. Just that we tear out Jack London. He compared it directly to the tearing down of monuments to Civil War generals in the South.

“Huh, what’s this all about?” I thought. “If Jack London was racist, this is the first I’ve heard of it.”

I did some digging. Turns out the author of the petition had not even read Jack London’s work, and was basing his conclusion on a short essay about London written by a food critic in the East Bay Express. That in turn was based on a very narrow reading of a non-fiction essay Jack London wrote in 1902 called “The Salt Of The Earth.”

In the essay, London describes what he believes are the geopolitics of China and Japan as potential world powers, and how Western perception does not account for them. He declares the West is underestimating the strength, resources, and ability of Japan and China as nations. He declares China a sleeping giant (it was) that will be awakened by Japan’s imperial aspirations (it was), and that this will lead to China and Japan’s growth into superpowers on the world stage (they did), and that as nations, Japan and China will present threats to the West that the West is unprepared for (yes and yes).

Not a bad bit of prediction for one writer just following his instincts. But, by referring to the Japanese nation collectively as “the little brown man” in the essay, he provided just enough material for the food critic to willfully misinterpret his meaning and accuse him of endorsing a race war.

In my personal opinion – and I’m definitely not alone here – Jack London is a brilliant author, worthy of honor in his hometown of Oakland. He wrote and traveled prolifically, and his life story is nothing short of awe inspiring. He was largely self-educated with the help of an Oakland Public Library librarian, went to work in a cannery at the age of 13, rode the rails as a child, became an oyster pirate, got into UC Berkeley, sailed to and participated in the Klondike Gold Rush, was a war correspondent for the Russo-Japanese War traveling with the Imperial Japanese Army, and wrote with passion about everything he experienced. My father loved Jack London’s stories growing up, and so did I.

Needless to say, I found the petition appalling. It was a perfect example of what some people call “cancel culture,” which is not just free speech or editorializing: It’s a deliberate attempt to take something that isn’t currently a sign or symbol of racial division by those who embrace it, and make it into one, so that those who embrace it are forced to either defend themselves, or voluntarily destroy the thing to prove their innocence. (E.g. “The host of your favorite TV show just said something problematic in a tweet! You are now supporting racism by liking the show; cancel it and find something else or you’re a racist.”)

It’s a thin cloak of political progressivism thrown over a desire to watch your enemies burn — even if you have to create those enemies by carving them away from your allies. It’s not very hard to recognize. It also seems to be confined to the internet, as it requires a certain amount of indiscriminate groupthink to operate.

No one – and I can say this with absolute confidence, categorically – NO ONE who embraces Jack London does so for his supposed racist views. A campaign to slander and erase the beloved Oakland author serves no purpose but to pointlessly divide and make enemies of sympathetic people.

Compare this to the monuments to Civil War figures in the South: Most of them were put up well after the war ended as an attempt to claim public spaces for white supremacists. These are people whose only claim to fame is as representatives of the antebellum south. In their case I do support tearing the statues the heck down. But even then, we need to practice some restraint and figure out why or whether anyone cares about them, instead of leaping to a conclusion about their current significance.

Or hey, here’s another suggestion: We could start a tradition where we get all our farmer’s market produce that looks too gross to sell, and bring it to the square every week, and pelt the monument with it, to constantly renew our contempt for their ideals. It could be a scheduled thing, with food stalls and music, and lots of explanatory plaques for why we do it every summer. Wouldn’t that be useful, and cathartic as well? Old General So-and-so with rotten turnips hanging off his sword, until he rusts away?

Anyway, I had to make some posts on that forum, and then sit and stew for a while, before logging off and getting back to work. Has the whole country gone mad this summer? Maybe COVID-19 has given people too much free time, and too much stress, simultaneously?

On the third day, my friend Matt came over from Las Vegas to hang out with me. We grabbed late-night dinner in an empty casino, then he took me on a tour of the slot machines, explaining to me how they worked internally and what the pay tables were for.

All those ‘J’ symbols. Does that mean I win? (Spoiler: No.)
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All those ‘J’ symbols. Does that mean I win? (Spoiler: No.)

Matt explaining how pay tables work.
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Matt explaining how pay tables work.

It was a fun distraction, and I even won twenty bucks on a machine, which was just enough to pay for dinner!

8 hours with Photoshop, a little plastic fabrication, and you’ve got yourself a slot-machine theme.
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8 hours with Photoshop, a little plastic fabrication, and you’ve got yourself a slot-machine theme.

The licensed ones pay out less, to compensate for the licensing fees.
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The licensed ones pay out less, to compensate for the licensing fees.

At the end of the night, Matt let me pack all of my heavy luggage into his car before he drove back to Vegas. Tomorrow I would be making a 3000-foot ascent over the mountain pass into the city, and it would be very hard to do in a single day with all that extra weight. Thanks, man!

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