Onward To The Settlement

I woke up at the Höfn campground for the last time. It was late morning. Last night I’d stayed up way too late in the common area doing work, trying to get ahead of things.

I stepped out of my tent, washed my face, and pedaled straight across town to the post office. No need to consult a map — I’d been there several times, nervously asking the one postal clerk about the package.

The post office: My touring salvation.
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The post office: My touring salvation.

Finally the tire arrives!
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Finally the tire arrives!

When he plopped it onto the counter I was kind of surprised.  After so many delays I had grown used to thinking the package didn’t actually exist, and I was just chasing an illusion in a bureaucracy.  I chatted with him about how long it had been stuck in customs, and how hard it was to get answers.

“Oh, I know what you mean.  They are a mess.  They really need to do something about it.  People come in here a lot, thinking we are the customs office, and yell at us because they can’t get their package.  I have to tell them I don’t know anything. When we do try to help, we contact customs and we get no answer.”

So even Iceland’s own government-run post office can’t reach the customs agency.  I suspected that they were doing that gross trick that many badly run businesses do, and deliberately obscuring all the methods used to contact them so they are shielded from people’s complaints.  In the back of my head I suddenly saw a parallel with the last US president, and how his response to the bad COVID testing numbers coming out of his administration was to try and halt the testing itself. No numbers, no problem; right?

After a few more commiserating words with the clerk, I thanked him again and walked out with my package.

My one slap-bracelet has seen better days.
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My one slap-bracelet has seen better days.

I tore it open on a sunny patch of lawn right next to the post office, and set about swapping the tire.  As I did so I laughed at how accustomed I’d grown to the casual ways of small-town Iceland.  The clerk had not asked me for any kind of identification.  I just told him my name, and he walked into the back and brought me a box.  I no longer noticed this kind of stuff.

And I knew, without a doubt, that I could take my luggage and bike apart and spread it around on this lawn right next to the post office parking lot for half an hour, and no one would harass me or even be particularly surprised.  As long as I cleaned up my mess, no harm done. Many small towns in America would send me a local cop in about 30 minutes, cruising by to make sure I wasn’t some drug-addled hobo planning to break into a car, or rip parts off the equipment around the building, or defecate in a bush.

Actually, I had been depending on the good grace of Iceland since I woke up:  I’d ridden across town, away from my tent, leaving two bags full of extremely expensive gear tucked inside it.  I thought for a good while but I couldn’t come up with any other example of a place I’d been where I felt comfortable enough to do that.  Anywhere else, and I’d have packed up every item, leaving behind only a flat square of grass. Even if I felt I could trust the locals, I wouldn’t want to trust my fellow tourists.

(… Especially if I was at a hostel.  In the past, young bohemian travelers living their “best life” at a hostel have taken an extremely flexible view of the borders between their property, public property, and my property.  If it’s not nailed down then it must be for communal use; and if they can pry it up, then it wasn’t nailed down. Heeey, maaan, we’re all here to share, right?)

I’m certain that Icelanders get really upset with tourists sometimes. We’re such a mixed bag. I get the impression we’re seen like a migratory birds:  Not exactly loved, but accepted as part of a process.  We fly in for a season, wander awkwardly around the landscape pooping out little piles of money, then bugger off when the weather turns.

Oh boy, no more lumpy rolling!
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Oh boy, no more lumpy rolling!

Tinkering with the bike and thinking about migration brought me to the idea of interconnected economies again. Iceland just keeps leading me to it. How many threads could wrap around the world, plunging into the soil of distant countries, tracing the origin of the things I consume here in one average day? A hundred, perhaps? How many of these threads am I pulling when I do something completely unremarkable, like use a crosswalk, or eat a candy bar?

I looked around: Hey, is the grass on this lawn native grass? Did the cement poured to make this curb come from a ship? How about the rebar it was poured onto?

(Answers: Grass: Hard to tell, considering the legacy of the Vikings. Cement: Yes, most likely from a large supplier in Norway. Rebar: Yes, most likely from an American company with a branch office in Ísafjörður or Reykjavík.)

A bunch of patches on the inside managed to slow the disintegration, but not stop it.
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A bunch of patches on the inside managed to slow the disintegration, but not stop it.

Taking this tire along for a while just in case the replacement is bad.
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Taking this tire along for a while just in case the replacement is bad.

I installed the new tire, noting that it rolled perfectly but didn’t have a whole lot of tread left.  I decided to keep the old one packed away for a few days, just in case the replacement decided to suddenly explode.

A thoroughly used tube.
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A thoroughly used tube.

The patches did help, but the tube still got eroded.
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The patches did help, but the tube still got eroded.

My 20-inch tubes were a literal patchwork. With the good one inside the new tire, I decided it was time to apply my remaining patch to the other one. At least patches were a thing I could potentially buy at a bicycle shop … assuming there were any in this quadrant of the island.

I handed the box back to the clerk for recycling, waved goodbye again, then hit the supermarket next door – the only one in town – and filled a sack with food so I would be well stocked for the next three days of traveling.  Then I zipped back across town to the campsite, where I settled at a public table in time to do a work meeting. Once that was done I gathered everything from my campsite and said an overdue goodbye to Höfn.

Chomp chomp says the pony!
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Chomp chomp says the pony!

As I pedaled north in a pocket of comfortable silence created by the wind matching my speed, I thought back two weeks to the terrain I’d passed heading into town.  The memory felt like it was of a different country.  I felt less like I was resuming my journey, and more like I was embarking on second one.  My mind had been thoroughly elsewhere. Mostly back at work. Now here I was again, setting out.

Sunset goats!
Goats on the move.
Gotta eat lots of grass to get hair that shiny.
Where there's a wool, there a way. What, you don't like my wordplay? Is it baa-a-a-a-aa-aad??
Bonus moo!
Psst, Mom... There's one of those paparazzi after us again.
In a few months it'll be time to go into the barn for the cold, cold winter.
Oh hay! It's a pleasant evening for horses.

What exciting things lay ahead? For one, the first tunnel of this tour.

Oh boy, a tunnel!
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Oh boy, a tunnel!

… But before that, it was time to make a detour, to an intriguing map marker I’d pinned several years ago. A campground and restaurant built near an abandoned movie set.

Viking cafe? That sounds like my kind of thing.
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Viking cafe? That sounds like my kind of thing.

Mom

Do your legs remember how to pedal?

Me

They’re enjoying working again!

Mom

How many miles do you have to go?

Me

Today? Only about 10 more. For the country? Probably about 150.  Not very hard at all. If I don’t take any days off I could get to Seyðisfjörður and the ferry boat by next Wednesday.

That would leave me about 1 month to check out the Faroe Islands and Denmark, and possibly go north into Norway and Sweden.  Not nearly enough time.  I decided I should file that “work abroad” paperwork after all, even if it only bought me a few more weeks.

Sunset over Höfn.
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Sunset over Höfn.

I found the campsite in the late evening, and set up my tent in some extreme wind. With one guyline tied around a big rock I got the walls stable enough, but every now and then the wind would kick up alarmingly and shove the roof of the tent downward.  As I laid inside in my sleeping bag watching a really cute but poorly-aged anime called “Ruin Explorers”, the wall of the tent kept diving unpredictably down onto my head, and smooshed gently across my face.  Rather than being annoyed, I started laughing. It was like being aggressively flirted with by one of those dancing noodle men you see outside car dealerships with a fan blowing air into it.

“HI!  I’M YOUR TENT!  MMMWAH!! … HI AGAIN, I’M YOUR TENT!!  I LOOOOVE YOU.  MMMWAH! LET’S GET PHYSICAL!”

When it was time to sleep I got up and rotated the sleeping bag around so I was facing downwind.  The tent wall made out with my feet all night, which was satisfactory for us both.

Tending To Romance

With lots of downtime in Höfn, one of the things I did was try to settle the romantic dilemma I’d blundered into a few weeks back. I was out of the highlands and there was no barrier to talking with my new friend, but I struggled with whether I should.

Eventually I wrote her a series of messages:

“So, I’ve been thinking. Lots of space and time to think, out on this weird island. It was fun doing that Zoom meeting with you. Intriguing to connect the face and movement with the thoughts and dialogue before. But I it’s no substitute for a face-to-face meeting.”

“Our physical distance is probably not going to change any time soon. If I was back home, I’d be putting together some kind of invitation for a picnic with you in a sunny park, because you’re very worth exploring. Someone as nifty as you deserves full attention. But I’m not there, I’m here, enacting a travel plan whose wheels I set in motion well before I knew you existed.”

“So, a real chemistry-testing date would be a long time coming. And if you’re newly dating, like I’ve been before, you might be feeling what I often do, which is a sense of overwhelming choice. There are so many different kinds of people! Personalities to bounce off, fun activities to try that your ex didn’t like, and so on! I imagine you could fill your dance card from 9:00am to midnight every day and still never get the whole variety. And given that … it doesn’t make sense to focus on someone so far away. One only has so much energy for these things.”

“I’m not saying I don’t enjoy corresponding with you – I very much do – but being limited to correspondence for such a long time might eventually get more frustrating than fun, and create weird expectations. I don’t want our connection to suffer that fate, but there aren’t any good choices. I think the only choice I have is to suggest that we pause things until I get back. I’m not declaring it quite yet, but the idea has been rolling around in my head for a few days.”

“How do you feel about all this?”

Ten minutes later I got a reply:

“That sounds right to me. I really like messaging with you but I am also actually trying to explore new possibilities right now. And we can’t progress beyond messaging so it makes sense to step back while that’s the case. I’m open to being pen pals in the meantime. I’m interested in your ongoing travels!”

And that’s the way it settled. I knew that stepping back meant drifting away from her, but it was the healthier choice. And better to make it deliberately than just let things fade into nervous silence on one end or the other.

Höfn Thoughts

Stuck in a town for two weeks with nothing to do but work and answer emails…

Question

Iceland was just declared one of the best places to survive a global societal collapse, according to the highly reputable scientific outlet The Sun. What are your thoughts?

Answer

Well, based on that list, the key factor in survivability is the ratio of sheep to people. The more sheep per capita, the better. But I think it’s praa-aa-a-aaa-aaabably more complicated than that…

That report has some really questionable ground rules. For one, it deliberately excludes any factors that might arise from a collapse of external supplies of fuels and materials to these places.

I’m sure you’re aware that Iceland is extremely reliant on industrial-scale shipping to bring in everything from fuel to light bulbs to nails. New Zealand to a similar, but lesser, degree.

But sure, go to Iceland to weather the apocalypse… And remain here, as the airlines and ports shut down, and no one in the rest of the wold bothers to restart them because tourism and banking are dead. Life will not be very comfortable, and probably not very long. Reykjavik will have to depopulate, after a brief period when the trucks burn through their fuel reserves, and then almost all of those people will move out across the landscape, starving as they go, chasing sheep around the highlands.

Geothermal heat is great, when you’ve got time to spend indoors. Not any more. Back to intensive farming, for everyone, as everyone gives a solid try at producing a years’ worth of food in weak sunlight and thoroughly eroded soil. The sheep and goats won’t breed fast enough, and the cattle are too hard on the land so they’ll be consumed almost instantly. The remnants of humanity will go back to cutting grass with horses, and watch as first-world comfort folds in on itself.

It’ll all be truly over when a water pump fails in a storm one too many times and the engineers discover they’ve run entirely out of bolts, and there is nothing anywhere on the island capable of generating temperature hot enough to reforge steel unless you try some truly daring metalwork in the midst of a volcanic eruption.

Before that happens you might try sailing away, except the Vikings already cut down all the trees large enough to build longboats.

Perhaps the moss is edible?

Frankly, in terms of short and long-term survival, my money’s on Texas. They have their own long-term supplies of fertilizer and fuel, the panhandle is extremely productive in terms of crops and cattle, their infrastructure is not nearly as abused by the weather as elsewhere, and (this is the important bit)…

… they are armed to the teeth.

Question

Since you’re hanging around in one place, have you made any new observations about the locals?

Answer

To be honest, no. In public areas the tourists tend to outnumber the locals by a big margin most of the time.

I’m sitting here at a service station that has a cafeteria and electrical sockets, getting some work done.  Out the window I can see a car-washing area:  Three parking spaces with spray hoses coiled up next to them.  There’s a woman there with her 2020-ish Ford F-150 — the kind with the short-ass bed.

I’ve been watching her for a while. She rinsed her car, then applied some kind of spray-on cleaner, then applied a layer of soap with a scrub brush all around it, even climbing into the bed to get the roof, and crawling under to get beneath.  Then she did another thorough rinse with the hose, then walked all around the car with two different spray bottles, spraying all the panels and windows.

Then she removed all the floor mats, sprayed them down, soaped them, scrubbed them, sprayed them again, and hit them with the bottles.  Then she went over the mirrors and lights on the car with another sponge and soap.  Then another full rinse.  Then she got out a spraying brush on a broom handle, and scrubbed the rims, including all around the road-facing surface of the tires.

Is this some kind of national pastime?
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Is this some kind of national pastime?

Then she climbed in the back and scrubbed the inside of the tailgate with a rag.  She did not rush, and between intervals of writing code I looked up and looked at the clock, and noted that the whole routine took over two hours.

I couldn’t imagine any service station in America tolerating someone who wanted to use their water and parking space for two hours to completely hand-wash their truck.  And from my point of view, the truck was already pretty clean when she started. So, was this a tourist being extra-super-cafeful about returning a rental vehicle in good shape? Or was this a local, doing a once-a-year detailing of their workhorse?

I’m no stranger to seemingly wasted time over-doing something.  My bicycle is proof of that:  I’ve put hours of obsession into every tiny component and piece of luggage on it.  On the other hand, I can see it from here, sitting in my service station booth, and the frame is spattered with mud and caked grease, the handlebars are scarred, and some of the stickers are peeling off. And I don’t really care.  It’s mostly aluminum, so it’s not like it’s going to rust.

Perhaps I’m seeing an example of Icelanders “taking care of their things” in a more Scandinavian way than their cavalier American counterparts.  And perhaps it’s no surprise that, being an American, I’m on the side of the Americans in this case:  It’s a damn truck.  It’s designed to get knocked around and still last 40 years with standard maintenance; just don’t store it in the snow.  The only thing you’re doing by using a hundred gallons of fresh water to wash the dirt off – and it rains all the time in Iceland by the way – is performing cleanliness to a local social standard.

But again: Tourist or local? I didn’t march outside to ask. So, I may not have learned anything here.

I did see this sticker on the bathroom door. I think it counts as local color:

“EMPLOYEES MUST CARVE SLAYER INTO FOREARM BEFORE RETURNING TO WORK.”

Question

What would you do for a living if there were no computers?  Like, nothing more complicated than a pocket calculator?  What would you do for fun?  How would you socialize?

Answer

For fun, I would probably keep riding my bike, but regress to a tape collection and a bookshelf, and end up socializing a lot more in cafes.

I like to write, but if I was reduced to punching a typewriter and shopping my work around to publishers to find some kind of audience, I confess I’d probably just give it up for the most part. I don’t have the chops to make it in the print world. The vast majority of my words would become a rambling paper memoir crammed into binders on a shelf in my garage, read by probably one or two people on the planet at best, fulfilling their main purpose of giving me some way to complete my own thoughts by externalizing them. I really do like nailing down a thought. Perhaps being deprived of electronic transmission would force me to confront just how self-serving my writing habits are.

It’s a funny idea: Whether social media, blogging, or whatever variation you like, the possibility that our work is visible to some random anonymous visitor tossed our way by a search engine lends it a sense of legitimacy that we embrace at the subconscious level and don’t want to think about. I mean, if you spend two days composing a very thoughtful essay about something and post it, only to have the algorithm utterly ignore it, haven’t you really just spent two days muttering to yourself, facing a blank wall, and communicated with no one? Isn’t that appallingly dysfunctional? The vague promise of random future eyeballs prevents you from asking the question. It may even prevent you from doing something more socially fulfilling.

So, I don’t know. I do write these things for my own satisfaction. I need good external memory in words and images or I think I’d forget almost everything concrete, at this point — and I don’t want to forget. It’s something to do with my brain. I struggled with this as a kid and I struggle with it more each year. If computers vanished, this would be a lot harder. Same with photography, and music, and various methods of communication.

Perhaps I’d go back to writing people letters, in actual envelopes with stamps and plant cuttings and stuff in them? Not so bad…

The big issue in my case would be, how do I make a living? I’d probably decide to re-train as a schoolteacher, like my parents. It would take years but I’d enjoy the journey. And heck, I probably already have enough weird facts in my head to assemble a few lesson plans.

Icelandic Security

Okay, so, say you’re in an AirBnB. And it’s multiple rooms, and you can get in the front door but you can’t unlock your own room.

In an emergency you can exit through the utility room.
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In an emergency you can exit through the utility room.

I bet the key to the other door opens this one too.
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I bet the key to the other door opens this one too.

For fire safety there’s a key behind some glass that opens a back door, and that passes through a storage room that also contains spare keys. You can see them through the keyhole! But, should you break the glass? That seems wasteful.

You keep looking around. At the top of some stairs you find another locked door that leads to the upper story of the house, where the owner lives. When you look in the keyhole, you notice it’s dark. It appears that someone has left a key in this door, on the other side.

You also notice that the faceplate over the keyhole only has one screw in it. Has someone taken it apart before you? You don’t have a lot of possessions to work with, but you poke around the laundry room and find a dull knife. It’s just enough to turn the remaining screw.

Have people done this before?
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Have people done this before?

It was even easier than it looks.
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It was even easier than it looks.

It’s also enough to turn the entire locking assembly once you get the faceplate off. You do so, and hear a loud “clunk” as the lock disengages. You open the door…

Just on the other side of the door. How handy!
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Just on the other side of the door. How handy!

The keys to the kingdom!
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The keys to the kingdom!

… and discover that the owner has left a complete set of keys to the entire house, including all the rooms, hanging in the lock on the other side of the door.

You unlock your own room, fetch your key, then place the keyring back where you found it, and screw the faceplate back in.

Ready for the next guest…

Hunkered Down In Höfn

Long story short: It took about two weeks for the new tire to arrive. That meant two weeks in Höfn, rambling around town, doing remote work, and trying every restaurant and snack shop at least once. Not a bad life, though my feet were itchy the whole time.

Parked outside in plain view, with gear on it. That’s security in a small Iceland town.
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Parked outside in plain view, with gear on it. That’s security in a small Iceland town.

All set up for a long stay.
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All set up for a long stay.

When the AirBnB stay was done I grabbed a patch of grass at the local campsite and paid a few days in advance. I had plenty of work to do but it was too cold to sit outdoors with the laptop, so I rotated between a couple of cafes, a gas station dining area, and the common area of the campground.

All kinds of stuff for the hungry traveler.
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All kinds of stuff for the hungry traveler.

And power sockets? Nice!
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And power sockets? Nice!

The staff at all these places got a little tired of me in the second week. But I was spending money, so…

I explored the town from end to end, checking out the paths, the information kiosks, the local art, and so on.

A sudden change in road surface.
A tiny nameless island just off the coast of Höfn
Sponsored by a local restaurant.
This must be part of a larger installation.
Looking across the bay to the glacier at Kverkfjöll volcano.
Gotta take your sunlight where you find it.

One of my favorite areas was the shoreline, which gave an amazing view of the glaciers nearby. For example, Heinabergsjökull:

Quite a view along this bike path!
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Quite a view along this bike path!

As an aside, while trying to figure out the name of that glacier, I found it was actually pretty hard to find a modern map with enough labels on it. I eventually dug one out of a scientific paper named “Non-surface mass balance of glaciers in Iceland“:

Figure from Non-surface mass balance of glaciers in Iceland
Authors: Tómas Jóhannesson, Bolli Pálmason, Árni Hjartarson, Alexander H. Jarosch, Eyjólfur Magnússon, Joaquín M. C. Belart, Magnús Tumi Gudmundsson

One of the retaining walls along the main street had been turned into an art gallery by local students. By the end of the second week I knew them all. The old dude in the boat was my favorite.

Most artctic terns get to Iceland by flying. Some pay a boatman.
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Most artctic terns get to Iceland by flying. Some pay a boatman.

Also I saw some odd bones on the pier, and had to ask my nephew about them:

Dockside attractions.
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Dockside attractions.

Me

So what’s this bone here?

James

My money is on skull cap of a cetacean.

Me

And the rib?

James

Oh, hah! I seriously thought that was a huge wood plank. Definitely baleen whale. Not a rib though. That’s a lower jaw.

Me

Thank you once again, Keeper Of Bone Lore!

There was one errand I could do while waiting: Laundry. This was my first chance to wash everything in a real machine for many days.

No matter how many times you wash your sweats, you can’t get highway tar out!
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No matter how many times you wash your sweats, you can’t get highway tar out!

Unfortunately, no amount of washing will get highway tar out of sweatpants. My frustration inspired a short poem:

Tenth day of cycling
The stench hits you like a truck
Time for sink laundry

Hot highway blowout
Sitting down to fix the flat
Ass covered in tar

Hey bicycle guy
Looks like you pooped fireworks
Sink laundry again

I had a pair of regular pants that I was wearing around town, but when I got back on the road I would have to wear those revolting sweatpants again. I consoled myself during the endless work hours with snacks:

Delicious fried eggs and vampire teeth for sale!
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Delicious fried eggs and vampire teeth for sale!

Bag O’ Snackables.
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Bag O’ Snackables.

The gas station snack bins helped bring my food expenses down, since all the restaurants were super fancy.

The joint’s jumpin’!
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The joint’s jumpin’!

Roaming free! Until winter sets in. Then you take them indoors or they die.
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Roaming free! Until winter sets in. Then you take them indoors or they die.

While I stayed in place, other tourists came and went all around me. The campground filled up and emptied out in waves.

I dig this thorough packing job.
Need a late-night drive-through burger? Here's your spot.
I haven't seen a trough urinal in years. And here's one in jolly first-world Iceland.
Sudden camper van explosion!

Höfn is a fine town and I have nothing against it, but the sensation of valuable travel days slipping away made the time I spent there kind of unpleasant. The day I’d arrived, I got in touch with the postal depot in Reykjavík, and in the back-and-forth with them over the two weeks I learned that my package had taken only three days to travel 6000 miles and arrive in Iceland, and the additional twelve days got consumed by the customs inspection and the 280-mile (450km) journey around the country to get to Höfn. It was frustrating, but I knew I had no alternative to waiting.

There was only one 20-inch bike tire in the entire country, and it was in a box headed my way.