I slept pretty well, but I woke up hungry. There was exactly one restaurant operating in Goldfield so I headed for it.
There was a lot of cool stuff sitting around. The whole town was a sort of open-air museum. The contrast with Oakland was hilarious to me: If this stuff was sitting around in Oakland, it would be a matter of days before homeless people tore it all apart and carried it to metal recyclers, or built shacks out of it. Every one of these unoccupied buildings would rapidly fill with trash, soiled clothing, and human waste.
On the other hand, if you did the inverse, and brought all the homeless people in Oakland over to Goldfield… They would probably all starve or die of dehydration in about a week. The locals wouldn’t be able to feed them even if they wanted to. That’s why the homeless are in Oakland, and not here.
I wonder if it would be fair for big cities like Oakland to collect a sort of “homeless tax” from rural areas, and use it to pay for the social workers, drug rehab, and temporary housing that gives homeless people a chance to re-integrate with society and the economy…
(On a more truculent note, I wonder if it would be fair to collect a tax from the Mormon Church to support all the family members that get banished from their community for trivial things like being too gay, or too skeptical – or too brown – and have to leave Utah and start somewhere else with nothing.)
Dang, how did I get up on this soapbox? Aaaanyway, yeah, there’s some neat stuff here.
There were lots of old cars parked around the town, making a haphazard gallery. My favorites were the art cars:
The owner of these cars lived in somewhere in the town. I looked around but didn’t spot him, so I stuffed a few bucks in the donation box and moved on.
It would be incredible to restore this vehicle, but I suspect the owner would ask way too much money for it, for sentimental reasons.
This handy sign reminded me how hungry I was. Time to eat!
I struck up a conversation with the owner. She talked about how much harder it was to get by in town with COVID nearly shutting down the tourist trade. Most of the local population was already gone, seeking employment in the cities, or consolidating with relatives, or just wandering around. I ordered two entire meals from the menu, knowing I would take one back to the hotel that night. Then I unfolded the laptop and sorted photographs for a while.
As I was finishing my meal, two more customers came in. The woman was in her mid-30’s, powerfully built, wearing shorts and a halter-top with a sports bra underneath. Long brown hair was tied in a braid down her back. She had a serious, intense look on her face. The man she entered with was in his early fifties. Well over six feet tall, wearing a sleeveless shirt and loose pants covered in dirt, with thick leather boots. He had grease stains on his forearms. His face was weathered; his graying hair and beard were long and unkempt.
The woman did all the talking, except for a few words muttered by the man as he asked for a giant hamburger and a tall glass of soda. They ate quickly and left just as I was packing up.
I looked at them and thought about modes of dress, and all the assumptions people can make when they meet strangers in strange lands. With very little effort, I could make what felt like an educated guess about the work these people do, the kind of life they lead … even the way their romantic relationship works. I could make assumptions about their politics. I’d use words like “working-class”, “antisocial”, “libertarian”. I’d assume they owned firearms and thought awful things about “liberals”.
I thought about what New Yorkers see, when they come to the Bay Area and find billionaire CEOs – people with astounding power and influence – wearing t-shirts and pants around the office, giving presentations in blue jeans, prowling the factory floor in loafers or even sandals. Does it bother them? Do they think it’s pointlessly confusing? Do they assume that these people are relinquishing some kind of power by not wearing a suit? Or maybe they feel like they’re being mocked?
I thought this over as I packed my leftovers and paid the bill. “There is a common idea here,” I realized. “It’s always about disorientation. It’s about outsiders feeling disoriented because they’re applying the categories they have back home.”
“So these people here in the restaurant with me are dirty, and tired, and their relative ages are bit off. What can I really conclude from that? I’ve placed their mode of dress on a scale, a few notches below mine, because that’s where I would place it back home in Oakland. It’s just like the New Yorker reacting to the CEO in sandals: I’m bringing my categories with me like baggage, and unpacking them around me for my own reasons. It barely has anything to do with these people. That’s kind of dumb. Why am I doing it?”
I walked outside. The man and woman were just pulling onto the road in a beat-up truck. Bundles of rebar were stacked in the back, held together with wire. “I guess it’s what feels natural. The trick is learning how to stop.”
Again, I thought about how different my ideas would be if I lived here for a month, or a year, or ten years. If the world beyond Nevada faded away, and I thought of everything in terms of the desert, and hard work in small towns, and an American landscape slowly emptying out, getting dryer and more lonely, just as it remained beautiful and liberating and vast.
In a year or so I’d probably start to unwind, in an interesting way. I’d think of the frenetic churn of technology and culture in the coastal cities, and it would seem like a mirage, flattened out into little wrinkles of heat. Easy enough to ignore. I’d get my hands dirty building a house, clearing land, fixing machines. I certainly wouldn’t find it remarkable to see some fellow covered in dirt walk into a diner. Instead I’d probably say “Hey, Bill.”
Bill and I would probably be too tired to talk, so we’d just sit there and eat. Maybe some some dust-free Californians would give us the side-eye as they skipped through town on their way to somewhere else. We would barely notice. I probably wouldn’t think much at all about “liberals”. I’d be thinking about my ranch, and the fence I need to repair, and whether I should put new tires on the truck.
Feeling thoughtful, I rode back towards the hotel. I couldn’t really see myself embracing that life. Right now I was definitely too enchanted with bicycle touring to stop here, and in the broader view there were too many fine things and people waiting for me back in California.
Quite remarkable. Some internet searching informed me it was the old Goldfield high school building. Suddenly I was gripped by a compelling idea: I could buy this building, and spend a few years restoring it to a glorious state with my fancy California money, and turn it into a museum or a hotel or a restaurant – or all three – or just make a grand house out of it, and it would be finished just when the economy was recovering from COVID-19. What a cool project!
Still, it was interesting how much I liked the idea. That meant something. “I should keep that in mind for later, when I’m deciding what the next couple of years are shaped like,” I thought. “Perhaps something with house restoration…”
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